Shroud Tension Specs
- Thread starter azguy
- Start date
This is a subject of much interest to me.
The only actual specs I've seen (those from North Sails) involve the use of a $100 Loos gauge, which I'm somewhat reluctant to buy. My (1979) C22 manual says "a 50 pound push should deflect the upper shroud about 1" at shoulder height".
But this seems AWFULLY tight to me. Like piano-wire tight. I bought a fish scale, to see what a 50lb push felt like on the shroud, and discovered that I just don't have the 'nads to tighten mine that much. Matter of fact, I don't think I could get them that tight if I tried. Maybe my rigging is getting old?
The manual does go on to say the lower shrouds should be looser: "They should have no slack, but no tension either".
Which, in my mind, only adds to the mystery.
The only actual specs I've seen (those from North Sails) involve the use of a $100 Loos gauge, which I'm somewhat reluctant to buy. My (1979) C22 manual says "a 50 pound push should deflect the upper shroud about 1" at shoulder height".
But this seems AWFULLY tight to me. Like piano-wire tight. I bought a fish scale, to see what a 50lb push felt like on the shroud, and discovered that I just don't have the 'nads to tighten mine that much. Matter of fact, I don't think I could get them that tight if I tried. Maybe my rigging is getting old?
The manual does go on to say the lower shrouds should be looser: "They should have no slack, but no tension either".
Which, in my mind, only adds to the mystery.
I know, right....
From all the research I have done in the last 24 hrs it appears they should be tighter than we think
I think it makes sense that to much slack on the leeward side could result in damage during a hard tack or jibe as the load is picked up as the wind comes across.
I even found one site that recommends "a firm tautness" while you are in the slip resulting in a dull thud when you hit against the shroud. While another suggests as tight as a "guitar" string
From all the research I have done in the last 24 hrs it appears they should be tighter than we think
I think it makes sense that to much slack on the leeward side could result in damage during a hard tack or jibe as the load is picked up as the wind comes across.
I even found one site that recommends "a firm tautness" while you are in the slip resulting in a dull thud when you hit against the shroud. While another suggests as tight as a "guitar" string
Running rigging should always be tensioned to about 15% of it's breaking strength. Most people underestimate this and leave it WAY too loose. Because wire stretches at a uniform rate based on its diameter, there is any easy way to set this up without a Loos gauge. It's called the folding rule method.
This guide from Selden explains it, and how to tune various rigs. A copy should be on every boat owners computer or tablet.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ilab8s9lqta2mjv/Selden Hints and Advice.pdf
This guide from Selden explains it, and how to tune various rigs. A copy should be on every boat owners computer or tablet.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ilab8s9lqta2mjv/Selden Hints and Advice.pdf
For what it's worth, I asked around the marina and eventually found someone with a Loos gauge and plenty of experience with C22's. She suggested the upper shrouds be set at 25 lbs and the two lowers (fore and aft) at 18 lbs. She came down this morning to my slip with the gauge and a tool bag and we set them all to cruising specs and replaced all the cotter pins with cotter rings and then taped them with sail tape even though the turn buckles are covered with pvc. I guess sometimes the pvc pipes rides up and the last thing you want is your sail tearing.
All in all, a very productive morning for the price of a cup of coffee.
Tomorrow, I'm going to teak oil up the exterior wood around the hatch and take off the old split and tattered eyebrows above the windows so I can use them as templates for the new ones I'm making..
All in all, a very productive morning for the price of a cup of coffee.
Tomorrow, I'm going to teak oil up the exterior wood around the hatch and take off the old split and tattered eyebrows above the windows so I can use them as templates for the new ones I'm making..
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Check and follow Pete's advise, he's been sailing the 22 for quite a long time and knows what he's talking about.
http://www.bartlettsails.com/html/One_Design/Catalina-22.html
http://www.bartlettsails.com/html/One_Design/Catalina-22.html
I'll use a Loos gauge just to make sure the tensions are the same all around, but I hate to say it, on a small boat I just pull on 'em and tell if it's good enough. I've done it once or twice. Start grinding down on shrouds and stays hard enough, and you can start bowing the boat up like a banana..
ROTF , but Chris you have the advantage of years... I still remember way back when I bought my first sailboat. The shrouds baffled me, the PO just cranked down on them... Without changing anything I bought a loose gauge, they were three times too tight!
Mast wast out of column, it was a total mess... Once set where they should be, they boat relaxed and speed increased..
Now having said that, I leave my uppers set, but the lowers all have speed pins and I simply use a count system....as conditions change so does the settings, but I would never advise a new owner to set the lowers where I sail with mine. Loose is defiantly fast
I still remember way back when I bought my first sailboat. The shrouds baffled me, the PO just cranked down on them... Without changing anything I bought a loose gauge, they were three times too tight! Mast wast out of column, it was a total mess... Once set where they should be, they boat relaxed and speed increased..
Now having said that, I leave my uppers set, but the lowers all have speed pins and I simply use a count system....as conditions change so does the settings, but I would never advise a new owner to set the lowers where I sail with mine. Loose is defiantly fast
Catalina Yachts has a great rigging guide in all of the boat manuals for their masthead rigged boats. Simple, no tools involved. It's one of the best I've seen, and is similar to Selden's oft-referenced guide.
To dixiedawg, the rest of the manual explains how to check the tensions with a test sail.
I've been sailing Catalina mast head boats since 1983 (C22 2 years, C25 12 years,, C34 15 years) and have never felt the need to buy two Loos gauges (each boat had two different sized shrouds/lowers, requiring two different gauges).
Your boat, your choice.
To dixiedawg, the rest of the manual explains how to check the tensions with a test sail.
I've been sailing Catalina mast head boats since 1983 (C22 2 years, C25 12 years,, C34 15 years) and have never felt the need to buy two Loos gauges (each boat had two different sized shrouds/lowers, requiring two different gauges).
Your boat, your choice.
Stu,
Double gauges? What your fleet needs to do ONE TIME is to on one boat set the rigging correctly with both gauges, and then measure the tension on the smaller rigging with the bigger of the two gauges. Now you only need the big gauge. The reading on the small rigging will be nonsensical but if repeated will always be correct.
That's a great idea and concept Jack. "Ceptin' I "ain't got no fleet" and over the years the changes in my boats would have required three or four gauges.
I just RTFM - F is for funny.
If you have a fleet with a whole passel of skippers, yup, great idea.
I just RTFM - F is for funny.
If you have a fleet with a whole passel of skippers, yup, great idea.
I hear you. But today the 'fleet' is every owner of a particular boat with internet access. A guy could buy the big gauge, borrow the small, and do the measurements. Publish and he's the hero of the C34 fleet!