Shroud Pin
- Thread starter kair
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You could call Rig-Rite Steve: http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Kenyon_Spars/KENYON.html. You do not mention which shroud, upper or lower. I think the terminal ends might be different. I have worked up there on mine but cannot tell you the type nor size. Pretty sure the masts are the same except mine goes to the bilge.
On second thought the pin size should be the same top and bottom. Assuming you have access to the boat to measure. Again, Rig-Rite could confirm this.
On second thought the pin size should be the same top and bottom. Assuming you have access to the boat to measure. Again, Rig-Rite could confirm this.
Pin Size
I recently had my mast down on our H-36 (1982) and removed all the standing rigging. The pin size for all the shrouds that attach to the mast is 1/2 in. Wire size is 9/32 for the forestay and upper (split) backstay, all others are 1/4 in.
I just put an order in for a complete new set of rigging from Seco South. The original set used forks at the ends of the split backstay where the three wires come together with a single splitter plate (and different pins sizes). The new set will use 1/2 eyes instead of forks and will use two splitter plates instead of a single plate.
Ernie
I recently had my mast down on our H-36 (1982) and removed all the standing rigging. The pin size for all the shrouds that attach to the mast is 1/2 in. Wire size is 9/32 for the forestay and upper (split) backstay, all others are 1/4 in.
I just put an order in for a complete new set of rigging from Seco South. The original set used forks at the ends of the split backstay where the three wires come together with a single splitter plate (and different pins sizes). The new set will use 1/2 eyes instead of forks and will use two splitter plates instead of a single plate.
Ernie
Pin Size
I recently had my mast down on our H-36 (1982) and removed all the standing rigging. The pin size for all the (eyes) shrouds that attach to the mast is 1/2 in. Wire size is 9/32 for the forestay and upper (split) backstay, all others are 1/4 in.
I just put an order in for a complete new set of rigging from Seco South. The original set used forks at the ends of the split backstay where the three wires come together with a single splitter plate (and different pins sizes). The new set will use 1/2 eyes instead of forks and will use two splitter plates instead of a single plate.
Ernie
I recently had my mast down on our H-36 (1982) and removed all the standing rigging. The pin size for all the (eyes) shrouds that attach to the mast is 1/2 in. Wire size is 9/32 for the forestay and upper (split) backstay, all others are 1/4 in.
I just put an order in for a complete new set of rigging from Seco South. The original set used forks at the ends of the split backstay where the three wires come together with a single splitter plate (and different pins sizes). The new set will use 1/2 eyes instead of forks and will use two splitter plates instead of a single plate.
Ernie
So it is the same as the H37C. Interesting too that you mention Seco South. Ed A has been getting estimates for my H37C. He mentioned Seco South as a place he would check.
How are you doing yours Ernie? Complete sets with swaged ends? We are doing mine in the water, mast up. I am going with all 9/32" for the small difference in price I think. The two options would be a complete set that a rigger installs. Or I could do just wire with swaged tops and then a DIY with Sta-Lok or Hi-Mod on the bottom. "Rigging-Only" gave me a good price but I am reluctant to do mail order.
How are you doing yours Ernie? Complete sets with swaged ends? We are doing mine in the water, mast up. I am going with all 9/32" for the small difference in price I think. The two options would be a complete set that a rigger installs. Or I could do just wire with swaged tops and then a DIY with Sta-Lok or Hi-Mod on the bottom. "Rigging-Only" gave me a good price but I am reluctant to do mail order.
Hi Ed:
Since I have the mast down I decided to just replace all the rigging and I liked Seco South's quote and they have a complete set of specs for the rigging since they were the ones to supply it originally to Hunter. They were very helpful on the phone with answering my questions. I checked with JSI but their price was substanially higher than Seco South. Both are in ST. Petersburg (Largo) so it is not a long drive for me to pick it up, which I plan to do this coming week. The set will be swaged fittings at the top and bottom, eyes at the top ( 1/2 pins) and turnbuckle studs at the bottom and I will use the original turnbuckles as they are in good shape. The only deviation from the original is the split backstay which used swaged forks, 7/16 in pins for the upper on 9/32 wire, and 3/8 in. pins on the lower 1/4 wire. Turns out these forks are much more expensive than the simple swaged eyes, so the new rig will use swage 1/2 in. eyes on all three wires with two splitter plates (diamond shape) to join the three wires.
I am also considering replacing the original CDI furler with the CDI flexible furler (F9) as I never had a problem with the original one and I like the idea of the internal halyard and the continuous foil rather than individual aluminum foils. I am not really impressed much with the other choices, Pro-furl, Harken etc. for almost twice the price.
Just recently spent some time with Coastal Prop Technology, Inc., located in Cape Coral, FL, and they indicated that they could have made a strut for me out of stainless steel, probably at a price comparable to what one would pay for a bronze strut. Unfortunately I already decided to repair the old one and it turned out reasonable so I will remain with the old one. However, if someone finds that they need to replace their strut originally made by Dahmler Marine Hardware in NJ. they should check with a local prop shop.
Ernie
Since I have the mast down I decided to just replace all the rigging and I liked Seco South's quote and they have a complete set of specs for the rigging since they were the ones to supply it originally to Hunter. They were very helpful on the phone with answering my questions. I checked with JSI but their price was substanially higher than Seco South. Both are in ST. Petersburg (Largo) so it is not a long drive for me to pick it up, which I plan to do this coming week. The set will be swaged fittings at the top and bottom, eyes at the top ( 1/2 pins) and turnbuckle studs at the bottom and I will use the original turnbuckles as they are in good shape. The only deviation from the original is the split backstay which used swaged forks, 7/16 in pins for the upper on 9/32 wire, and 3/8 in. pins on the lower 1/4 wire. Turns out these forks are much more expensive than the simple swaged eyes, so the new rig will use swage 1/2 in. eyes on all three wires with two splitter plates (diamond shape) to join the three wires.
I am also considering replacing the original CDI furler with the CDI flexible furler (F9) as I never had a problem with the original one and I like the idea of the internal halyard and the continuous foil rather than individual aluminum foils. I am not really impressed much with the other choices, Pro-furl, Harken etc. for almost twice the price.
Just recently spent some time with Coastal Prop Technology, Inc., located in Cape Coral, FL, and they indicated that they could have made a strut for me out of stainless steel, probably at a price comparable to what one would pay for a bronze strut. Unfortunately I already decided to repair the old one and it turned out reasonable so I will remain with the old one. However, if someone finds that they need to replace their strut originally made by Dahmler Marine Hardware in NJ. they should check with a local prop shop.
Ernie
Geez I hate getting old. I had written a response to this and then went off and forgot to post the reply. But thanks for the good input Ernie. We will definitely be checking with Seco South. I just have the single backstay which I plan to install with insulators for the HAM radio. Otherwise pretty much the same. And that's some good strut info too. Good to know that we do not have to depend upon Dahmer.
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