Shroud attachment

[Dan Philgreen]

good ideas

no. 2 is an interesting idea. Hadn't thought of that. But straying from the factory plan does make me a bit nervous. In your no. 1 idea, do you mean 1/2" plywood for the plate? I was thinking of going with SS but I thought 1/4" would be sufficient. I just haven't run into any 1/2" SS in my limited experience. As you say, I want the plates as large as I can get them to spread the load. And as you suggest I will completely cut out the damaged area and reglass.

 

[Dan Philgreen]

good ideas

no. 2 is an interesting idea. Hadn't thought of that. But straying from the factory plan does make me a bit nervous. In your no. 1 idea, do you mean 1/2" plywood for the plate? I was thinking of going with SS but I thought 1/4" would be sufficient. I just haven't run into any 1/2" SS in my limited experience. As you say, I want the plates as large as I can get them to spread the load. And as you suggest I will completely cut out the damaged area and reglass.

 

[r.w.landau]

Stainless, you would be surprised how much

a 1/4 plate distorts near the attachment point.(Funnel effect)I would rig it like the 25's and the 272's. That is why they changed design.Go for it.r.w.landauedit: remember in #1 you are pulling on what may be a damaged deck. #2 transfers everything to the new solid bulkhead.

 

[r.w.landau]

Stainless, you would be surprised how much

a 1/4 plate distorts near the attachment point.(Funnel effect)I would rig it like the 25's and the 272's. That is why they changed design.Go for it.r.w.landauedit: remember in #1 you are pulling on what may be a damaged deck. #2 transfers everything to the new solid bulkhead.

 

[Dan Philgreen]

top plate?

What do you think about also using a SS plate on top? It could perhaps be smaller but would sandwich a good area of the fiberglass which may or may not really add any strength, but it would also cover the glass repair and provide a larger bedding area. Would this be overkill?

 

[Dan Philgreen]

top plate?

What do you think about also using a SS plate on top? It could perhaps be smaller but would sandwich a good area of the fiberglass which may or may not really add any strength, but it would also cover the glass repair and provide a larger bedding area. Would this be overkill?

 

[r.w.landau]

read 13 again, I edited it

r.w.landau

 

[r.w.landau]

read 13 again, I edited it

r.w.landau

 

[r.w.landau]

Dan, if you choose #1 your idea is pretty good.

That sandwich would help but I would go back to 1/4 top and bottom so that the sandwich doesn't stress the fiberglass at the edges of the plates.I still think rerigging and repairing the deck is a better way. You may even like the more open catwalks!r.w.landau

 

[r.w.landau]

Dan, if you choose #1 your idea is pretty good.

That sandwich would help but I would go back to 1/4 top and bottom so that the sandwich doesn't stress the fiberglass at the edges of the plates.I still think rerigging and repairing the deck is a better way. You may even like the more open catwalks!r.w.landau

 

[Dan Philgreen]

sounding better and better

, R.W. It would be nice to just not mess with those weak deck attachments at all and just glass up the leaky mess. Not to mention two less replacement shrouds I will have to buy. And I think the rig would also look a good bit cleaner for what that is worth. So the next question is, will I need to use beefier chain plates? Longer ones with more bolts? And should I go up a size on the guage of the shrouds? I am planning on replacing them all anyway. I haven't found any burrs but there is some light rust visible and they are old. I don't trust them. On a related note, an article I read about bulkhead replacement showed them using G10 panels instead of plywood. The price is pretty steep, especially for a boat as old and tired as mine. I figure plywood was good enough for 33 years of life, it should do for what I will need. But I wonder what you and the others here think of alternate bulkhead materials? Is there something composite besides G10 that is less expensive? Is there a preferred marine plywood? Again, thank you guys for the input. It is really great to have found this forum. You are most kind and generous with your ideas.

 

[Dan Philgreen]

sounding better and better

, R.W. It would be nice to just not mess with those weak deck attachments at all and just glass up the leaky mess. Not to mention two less replacement shrouds I will have to buy. And I think the rig would also look a good bit cleaner for what that is worth. So the next question is, will I need to use beefier chain plates? Longer ones with more bolts? And should I go up a size on the guage of the shrouds? I am planning on replacing them all anyway. I haven't found any burrs but there is some light rust visible and they are old. I don't trust them. On a related note, an article I read about bulkhead replacement showed them using G10 panels instead of plywood. The price is pretty steep, especially for a boat as old and tired as mine. I figure plywood was good enough for 33 years of life, it should do for what I will need. But I wonder what you and the others here think of alternate bulkhead materials? Is there something composite besides G10 that is less expensive? Is there a preferred marine plywood? Again, thank you guys for the input. It is really great to have found this forum. You are most kind and generous with your ideas.

 

[r.w.landau]

Dan, the rigging for the 272 is 7/32ss

the rigging for th 25 is 5/32ss.I know that marine plywood has lasted 30 years if it stays dry. I don't know anything about the products you mentioned.Glad to help and hope this helpedr.w.landau

 

[r.w.landau]

Dan, the rigging for the 272 is 7/32ss

the rigging for th 25 is 5/32ss.I know that marine plywood has lasted 30 years if it stays dry. I don't know anything about the products you mentioned.Glad to help and hope this helpedr.w.landau

 

[r.w.landau]

Dan, that framed area was a piece of plywood

backer glassed over. O'Day liked plywood backers. It must have rotted out and the PO did his repair.r.w.landau

 

[r.w.landau]

Dan, that framed area was a piece of plywood

backer glassed over. O'Day liked plywood backers. It must have rotted out and the PO did his repair.r.w.landau

 

[Shoaldrafter]

Another point of view of dual lowers

Dan,Let me summarize first. On the O'Day 27 that you have it had dual lowers which were not attached to the bulkhead, rather just to reinforced deck mounts. The reinforcement was originally plywood which apparently rotted out and in part was replaced with unknown white material (maybe plaster)(how about bondo?). Both places, forward and aft need repairs.It has been suggested that you go to single lowers attached to the bulkhead, as in the 25's, 26's (which I have) and 272's.I have had boats with dual lowers. My opinion is that if they are structurally sound it adds safety. The costs of new ss shrouds all the way around is not going to that much more by adding an additional one more pair(original design). I would rebuild to the original design or known safer updates. Going to single lowers may actually have been a production costs cutting measure.The problems presented are repairing deck to new or stronger condition cheaply. I would use marine plywood for initial reconstuction. Remember that Marine and exterior plywood use the same glues, just that marine is considered to be one step up in overall quality. So if marine is hard to come by or costs too much, then be comfortable using exterior and priming and sealing with penetrating epoxy. Before installing any piece of wood or plywood, I try to coat with penetrating epoxy to seal especially the ends. On the inside or bottom or repaired parts, I recommend (as previously said by others in this thread) to use thru bolts with either ss backing plates or fender washers. As for sealant around all thru bolts, I have switched to one part ureathane roofing cement. It is available in several colors such as white, off white, gray, black, etc. There is a new product coming on scene, flexible epoxy. Go to the West System Web site and search for information. That may be the new way to go?In Florida this may be a good time of year to do this repair. When it get hot, epoxies kick or set up too fast. Also there is a company in Florida that provides gel coat repair kit to match older O'Day boats. I found this company after I rebuilt my 26. Ed K

 

[Shoaldrafter]

Another point of view of dual lowers

Dan,Let me summarize first. On the O'Day 27 that you have it had dual lowers which were not attached to the bulkhead, rather just to reinforced deck mounts. The reinforcement was originally plywood which apparently rotted out and in part was replaced with unknown white material (maybe plaster)(how about bondo?). Both places, forward and aft need repairs.It has been suggested that you go to single lowers attached to the bulkhead, as in the 25's, 26's (which I have) and 272's.I have had boats with dual lowers. My opinion is that if they are structurally sound it adds safety. The costs of new ss shrouds all the way around is not going to that much more by adding an additional one more pair(original design). I would rebuild to the original design or known safer updates. Going to single lowers may actually have been a production costs cutting measure.The problems presented are repairing deck to new or stronger condition cheaply. I would use marine plywood for initial reconstuction. Remember that Marine and exterior plywood use the same glues, just that marine is considered to be one step up in overall quality. So if marine is hard to come by or costs too much, then be comfortable using exterior and priming and sealing with penetrating epoxy. Before installing any piece of wood or plywood, I try to coat with penetrating epoxy to seal especially the ends. On the inside or bottom or repaired parts, I recommend (as previously said by others in this thread) to use thru bolts with either ss backing plates or fender washers. As for sealant around all thru bolts, I have switched to one part ureathane roofing cement. It is available in several colors such as white, off white, gray, black, etc. There is a new product coming on scene, flexible epoxy. Go to the West System Web site and search for information. That may be the new way to go?In Florida this may be a good time of year to do this repair. When it get hot, epoxies kick or set up too fast. Also there is a company in Florida that provides gel coat repair kit to match older O'Day boats. I found this company after I rebuilt my 26. Ed K

 

[Dan Philgreen]

thanks for the pic

thanks Phil. It seems the white stuff may have been a factory thing after all. I will be getting it out of there and will decide then what to do when I can see exactly what's in there. Thanks again to all for your input.