does the 33.5 have a shower sump, or is it garvity fed? the water in our boat is stop feeding thru the flow hole.
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Dick Carey
H-33.5 Shower Sump
Gene, Our 1990 Hunter 33.5 has the shower drain directly into the bilge (forward section where the electric bilge pump is located). I called Hunter and asked about whether there was a shower sump that was somehow missing, the reply was that it didn't have a seperate sump, it just drains directly into the bilge and the bilge pump takes care of it. That always leaves some water in the bilge around the stainless keel bolts & nuts, which leads to 'crevus corrosion'... not a good thing. I have been wondering if I could fit an after market shower sump into the the next bilge section aft of the one with the bilge pump. I could then connect a hose from the drain to this sump, and anothe hose from the sump to one of the thru-hull drain lines (perhaps the galley sink drain, with a check valve and a 'Y' fitting). But that is all yet to be determined. If anyone has any ideas, please pass them on. (PS We also have a place on North Hutchinson Island just North of Ft. Pierce). Dick, S/V Puffin, Portsmouth, RI
Gene, Our 1990 Hunter 33.5 has the shower drain directly into the bilge (forward section where the electric bilge pump is located). I called Hunter and asked about whether there was a shower sump that was somehow missing, the reply was that it didn't have a seperate sump, it just drains directly into the bilge and the bilge pump takes care of it. That always leaves some water in the bilge around the stainless keel bolts & nuts, which leads to 'crevus corrosion'... not a good thing. I have been wondering if I could fit an after market shower sump into the the next bilge section aft of the one with the bilge pump. I could then connect a hose from the drain to this sump, and anothe hose from the sump to one of the thru-hull drain lines (perhaps the galley sink drain, with a check valve and a 'Y' fitting). But that is all yet to be determined. If anyone has any ideas, please pass them on. (PS We also have a place on North Hutchinson Island just North of Ft. Pierce). Dick, S/V Puffin, Portsmouth, RI
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John K Kudera
Wet Vac
You may try this first,we run water after we shower, then when the bilge pump pumps the final bit, we finish with one of those 2 gallon wet vac's resulting in a dry,stink free bilge. John K, sv 50-50
You may try this first,we run water after we shower, then when the bilge pump pumps the final bit, we finish with one of those 2 gallon wet vac's resulting in a dry,stink free bilge. John K, sv 50-50
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Richard Owen
Good idea
I have seen the shower sump packages in marine stores, so this should be a pretty straight forward installation, just a bit of piping and wiring - would make an interesting project for some windless Sunday afternoon. ROwen
I have seen the shower sump packages in marine stores, so this should be a pretty straight forward installation, just a bit of piping and wiring - would make an interesting project for some windless Sunday afternoon. ROwen
Just-an-idea.
Since many of the Hunters have the same problem it seems that there must be something that can be done to resolve this problem. I believe that most of the bilges and NOT big enough to handle a shower sump. My thought on this issue is as follows: Build a dam in the bilge that is about 7/8 the depth of the bilge. This probably can be done with a piece of plastic and some good sealant/ caulking. Then you can place another bilge pump in this section of the bilge. It only needs to be able to hold a couple of quarts of water. This would also serve another purpose. If the primary pump ever fails the aft end other end of the could overflow the dam and the second pump would take over. Obviously this is only going to work if there is battery power. -------------------------------------------------------------------+ ! Shower ! Main Bilge ! bilge ! ! ________!___________________________| Any water that is not pumped out of the bilge could be easily sponged out. You could also route the reefer drain to this sump too.
Since many of the Hunters have the same problem it seems that there must be something that can be done to resolve this problem. I believe that most of the bilges and NOT big enough to handle a shower sump. My thought on this issue is as follows: Build a dam in the bilge that is about 7/8 the depth of the bilge. This probably can be done with a piece of plastic and some good sealant/ caulking. Then you can place another bilge pump in this section of the bilge. It only needs to be able to hold a couple of quarts of water. This would also serve another purpose. If the primary pump ever fails the aft end other end of the could overflow the dam and the second pump would take over. Obviously this is only going to work if there is battery power. -------------------------------------------------------------------+ ! Shower ! Main Bilge ! bilge ! ! ________!___________________________| Any water that is not pumped out of the bilge could be easily sponged out. You could also route the reefer drain to this sump too.
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Don
There is a bilge pump that will fit the drain pan
I have a small attwood pump that will fit beneath the grate in my shower ('84 H31). I keep forgetting to find the model number but I have sealed off the drains to the bilge and use the attwood pump to pump out my shower pan. I will get the model number this weekend and post it if anyone is interested.
I have a small attwood pump that will fit beneath the grate in my shower ('84 H31). I keep forgetting to find the model number but I have sealed off the drains to the bilge and use the attwood pump to pump out my shower pan. I will get the model number this weekend and post it if anyone is interested.
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Larry Stewart
Don Please Post Model Number
Don...interested in the model number of the pump...have the same situation on my 87 31'...appreciate your response. ...larry...
Don...interested in the model number of the pump...have the same situation on my 87 31'...appreciate your response. ...larry...
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Don
it's an Attwood Mini King
Don't know where it came from, my father gave it to me. I had to remove the blue filter/base at the base of the unit. It will fit under the aft end of the grate. I wired my pump into the reading light over the v-berth, down under the vanity. Ran a hose from the pump under the vanity and added another thru-hull for the discharge. Good luck.
Don't know where it came from, my father gave it to me. I had to remove the blue filter/base at the base of the unit. It will fit under the aft end of the grate. I wired my pump into the reading light over the v-berth, down under the vanity. Ran a hose from the pump under the vanity and added another thru-hull for the discharge. Good luck.
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Douglas
Make your own sump
I have seen a homemade shower sump molded to fit the bilge dimension. The fellow made a mold (aluminum foil would probably work) and then fiberglassed it. He then added a small bilge pump and wiring. The result is a separate shower sump that can be removed if needed. -Doug S/V Brenda Gail
I have seen a homemade shower sump molded to fit the bilge dimension. The fellow made a mold (aluminum foil would probably work) and then fiberglassed it. He then added a small bilge pump and wiring. The result is a separate shower sump that can be removed if needed. -Doug S/V Brenda Gail
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Ed Fluss
A Sunday Project
Having the shower drain and icebox drain into my bildge bothered me especially since I like a dry bildge (dry bildge is nice for many reasons!) My H280 has the same problem as many of you have expressed... no room for a sump and pump ... so I created one that seems to do the trick and might be a tad easier than the "tin-foil fiberglass creation." (although I bet that is the best option if you hv the time and skill) I created a small shower sump/pump using a tupperware like container that fits in the centerline bildge area between my keel bolts, using a Rule 500GPH 3.5 inch tall pump and some 3/4" hosing and fittings. All available from any marine catalog. I connected that pump to a switch on my panel and just turn it on when I shower or want to drain my icebox. There is a small electronic water sensing swith I saw in the catalog that might make this automatic. The shower and icebox drain into the tupperware container from a tee connection, fill the sump, the pump I have connected to the same bildge hose using another Tee and I used two check valves so that when either pump operates there is no backflow to the other system. The Rule pump seems to work fine even when it runs dry. I have it on its own switch so even if I forget to turn it off, when my DC main goes off I dont waste power. Obvious advice for anyone. Do not wire this pump into the same wiring as your bildge pump. Parts: (1) tupperware like container that fits the space and is at least 4" tall and about 3+" wide. (2) "Thru hull fittings" Plastic mushroom Head-Barbed, angled 90 degrees (4+) feet of 3/4" hose (depending on where u are running this to/from) (2) 3/4" Nylon Hose Tees-barbed (2 or 3) 3/4" check valves (to prevent back flow) Lots of Hose clamps! 5200 marine sealant If you have any questions I can fax you a diagram. Hope this works for some of you...any improvement suggestions send em to me! efluss@earthlink.net
Having the shower drain and icebox drain into my bildge bothered me especially since I like a dry bildge (dry bildge is nice for many reasons!) My H280 has the same problem as many of you have expressed... no room for a sump and pump ... so I created one that seems to do the trick and might be a tad easier than the "tin-foil fiberglass creation." (although I bet that is the best option if you hv the time and skill) I created a small shower sump/pump using a tupperware like container that fits in the centerline bildge area between my keel bolts, using a Rule 500GPH 3.5 inch tall pump and some 3/4" hosing and fittings. All available from any marine catalog. I connected that pump to a switch on my panel and just turn it on when I shower or want to drain my icebox. There is a small electronic water sensing swith I saw in the catalog that might make this automatic. The shower and icebox drain into the tupperware container from a tee connection, fill the sump, the pump I have connected to the same bildge hose using another Tee and I used two check valves so that when either pump operates there is no backflow to the other system. The Rule pump seems to work fine even when it runs dry. I have it on its own switch so even if I forget to turn it off, when my DC main goes off I dont waste power. Obvious advice for anyone. Do not wire this pump into the same wiring as your bildge pump. Parts: (1) tupperware like container that fits the space and is at least 4" tall and about 3+" wide. (2) "Thru hull fittings" Plastic mushroom Head-Barbed, angled 90 degrees (4+) feet of 3/4" hose (depending on where u are running this to/from) (2) 3/4" Nylon Hose Tees-barbed (2 or 3) 3/4" check valves (to prevent back flow) Lots of Hose clamps! 5200 marine sealant If you have any questions I can fax you a diagram. Hope this works for some of you...any improvement suggestions send em to me! efluss@earthlink.net
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