My shower has an 800 rule pump in the sump with a manual switch that has to be turned on when showering and I was wondering if anyone has upgraded to possibly one of the new pumps with built in float switch and if so was wiring it straight forward.
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3 wire connections
I had a bad sump pump which required replacement and went the way you're considering. The only difference is that my automatic rule pump requires 3 wires if you want to run it in auto. The directions in the package provide a much clearer instruction to convert than I can. Very straight forward. Don
I had a bad sump pump which required replacement and went the way you're considering. The only difference is that my automatic rule pump requires 3 wires if you want to run it in auto. The directions in the package provide a much clearer instruction to convert than I can. Very straight forward. Don
Plan B: Add a float switch to your existing pump
Most pumps can accept a retrofit float switch...and they cost a lot less than a new pump.
Most pumps can accept a retrofit float switch...and they cost a lot less than a new pump.
I did the float switch....
in my 375 sump. Easy install. Works like a dream, and I consider it a backup bilge pump. If the water ever got that high, it would kick in too.
in my 375 sump. Easy install. Works like a dream, and I consider it a backup bilge pump. If the water ever got that high, it would kick in too.
How is the sump wired?
Don, I have a 1996 37.5 and I can't seem to get the Rule sump to work. Additionally, I'm not sure where it is wired into the electrical panel as I don't see any switch for it. Is it wired into the bilge pump switch? How do you turn the thing on? I'm not sure if it works or not.
Don, I have a 1996 37.5 and I can't seem to get the Rule sump to work. Additionally, I'm not sure where it is wired into the electrical panel as I don't see any switch for it. Is it wired into the bilge pump switch? How do you turn the thing on? I'm not sure if it works or not.
Rule Sump....
my sump pump ('93 37.5) is wired through a pull switch on the outside shower stall wall, about thigh high (essentially below where the shower controls are.) I'm guessing this was original. Pulling it out turns the pump on. I just wired a float switch into the hot side to it shuts the pump off an on. These pumps wear out fast in the shower, if you use them much. And maybe even if you don't but they set there. I think it's from all the gunk they pump out. I beleive mine is wired onto the fresh water pump switch. I'd assume this is shown on the wiring diagram in the manual.
my sump pump ('93 37.5) is wired through a pull switch on the outside shower stall wall, about thigh high (essentially below where the shower controls are.) I'm guessing this was original. Pulling it out turns the pump on. I just wired a float switch into the hot side to it shuts the pump off an on. These pumps wear out fast in the shower, if you use them much. And maybe even if you don't but they set there. I think it's from all the gunk they pump out. I beleive mine is wired onto the fresh water pump switch. I'd assume this is shown on the wiring diagram in the manual.
No switch
I'll look the next time I'm at the boat but I'm pretty sure there is not a pull switch in the bathroom that I can see. I'll have to get my voltage meter out to see if there is even power going to the darn thing. If there is I'll trace the wires and see where they go. There is a float switch next to the Rule pump but I was not able to active it manually as I can the float switch in the bilge. Not sure if this is a factory install or put in by previous owner.
I'll look the next time I'm at the boat but I'm pretty sure there is not a pull switch in the bathroom that I can see. I'll have to get my voltage meter out to see if there is even power going to the darn thing. If there is I'll trace the wires and see where they go. There is a float switch next to the Rule pump but I was not able to active it manually as I can the float switch in the bilge. Not sure if this is a factory install or put in by previous owner.
Switch
On my 1996 376 there is a switch on the control panel and a switch next to the sink. I'm not sure what the name of the type of pump I have, but I do know that the "gunk" doesn't wear it out. The water never comes anywhere near the moving parts of the motor, just the fan that pushes the water out the hose.
On my 1996 376 there is a switch on the control panel and a switch next to the sink. I'm not sure what the name of the type of pump I have, but I do know that the "gunk" doesn't wear it out. The water never comes anywhere near the moving parts of the motor, just the fan that pushes the water out the hose.
Shower Sump-Rule 800
David, My 1986, 34' Hunter has an 800 Rule with a separate float switch and it is wired direct to the 12V system just like my main auto bilge pump. I think if you exceed the capacity of the actual shower sump, the water drains into the bilge so, as someone else mentioned, it can be a backup bilge pump too. Likewise, if there is sufficient water in the bilge that makes it's way up to the shower area, the shower sump pump acts as a secondary bilge pump. I know some boats regardless of manuf. use a switch to turn on the shower sump pump. I was on an '84 Morgan with a speparate shower switch. I think it might depend on how much capacity your shower sump holds but I have to believe that all of them will allow any overflow to go to the bilge at some point. Watch out for vertical clearance when getting a new pump. I have to replace my 800 Rule, too and I'm going with an idenctical pump so the screw holes line up.....I hope. The Rule 800 says it's 4" high. I measured one and is about 3 7/8". Spend the extra $25 and get a new float switch to be safe. My pump is a standard two-wire system. Don't flip the conductors around otherwise you might be running in reverse. They are color coded but the boat wiring may be a little gunky and hard to see the difference in colors or read the stripe on one lead. Test it in a bucket of water aboard with the float switch in the circuit using the existing wiring to make sure it's working properly. Then screw it in. Strip your wires back to make sure they aren't corroded. Find some waterproof butt connectors and insure that the back ends are sealed around the insulation. Water will wick up under the insualtion and corrode the wires. I'm in fresh water and my stripped ends are a little green from sitting in the bilge.
David, My 1986, 34' Hunter has an 800 Rule with a separate float switch and it is wired direct to the 12V system just like my main auto bilge pump. I think if you exceed the capacity of the actual shower sump, the water drains into the bilge so, as someone else mentioned, it can be a backup bilge pump too. Likewise, if there is sufficient water in the bilge that makes it's way up to the shower area, the shower sump pump acts as a secondary bilge pump. I know some boats regardless of manuf. use a switch to turn on the shower sump pump. I was on an '84 Morgan with a speparate shower switch. I think it might depend on how much capacity your shower sump holds but I have to believe that all of them will allow any overflow to go to the bilge at some point. Watch out for vertical clearance when getting a new pump. I have to replace my 800 Rule, too and I'm going with an idenctical pump so the screw holes line up.....I hope. The Rule 800 says it's 4" high. I measured one and is about 3 7/8". Spend the extra $25 and get a new float switch to be safe. My pump is a standard two-wire system. Don't flip the conductors around otherwise you might be running in reverse. They are color coded but the boat wiring may be a little gunky and hard to see the difference in colors or read the stripe on one lead. Test it in a bucket of water aboard with the float switch in the circuit using the existing wiring to make sure it's working properly. Then screw it in. Strip your wires back to make sure they aren't corroded. Find some waterproof butt connectors and insure that the back ends are sealed around the insulation. Water will wick up under the insualtion and corrode the wires. I'm in fresh water and my stripped ends are a little green from sitting in the bilge.
On my 34...
...the shower sump pump has a float switch, but is powered through the water pressure circuit. So, it works when the shower is in use, cycles on and off based on sump water level, but cannot act as a backup bilge pump without power on the 12VDC bus and the water pressure switch selected to "on." The posted comments have me thinking about direct wiring this pump... -Hooper Harris H34 Tabasco, sn 161
...the shower sump pump has a float switch, but is powered through the water pressure circuit. So, it works when the shower is in use, cycles on and off based on sump water level, but cannot act as a backup bilge pump without power on the 12VDC bus and the water pressure switch selected to "on." The posted comments have me thinking about direct wiring this pump... -Hooper Harris H34 Tabasco, sn 161
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