Shower drain hose
- Thread starter Scott B
- Start date
It's not fun, but doable... my arm could just reach with the floorboards removed. Heat the hose to get it on the barb. Prepare for boat yoga! It might be possible to release the elbow from the shower pan, remove the drain grate to check. Replace with the best hose possible (usually 10 or 15 yr warranty).
All the sink drains are probably due / overdue as well..... how's the exhaust hose?that's usually the first to go.
I don't trust those glued on cuffs.
All the sink drains are probably due / overdue as well..... how's the exhaust hose?that's usually the first to go.
I don't trust those glued on cuffs.
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Here's the manual for the hunters 38, 2004 to 2010. You didn't say what year you have.
In other words.Can you use a guidline to snake a new hose through without going through your floor boards?
In other words.Can you use a guidline to snake a new hose through without going through your floor boards?
Ok, fair enough.Prime example of AI slop above..... LOL. I think marine mechanic jobs are safe for now
Looking at the 2008 hunter users manual. It shows a diagram such as: Shower drain>3/4 hose> Filter> 3/4 hose> Shower sump pump> 3/4 hose run through boat hulll.
If the owner can access the sump pump could he not access the hose from the drain to the filter? Or use something to snake in a new hose after unscrewing or pulling out the old hose?
Or as you said it's possible with "boat yoga." I guess that means you did it all by touch and no sight?
From the picture of the shower sump pump, it makes the rest look easy. Is that a fair assumption?
On our boats, the sump pump is readily accessible under the head sink vanity, but the sump from the drain is actually just outside the head door under the sole in the galley near the base of the companionway stairs. Heck, almost just like the diagram.
What POs have done is lift the T&H sole and cut into the fiberglass pan below it to access the hose connection to the sump.
They didn't bother replacing the fiberglass because it was a relatively small area, the fiberglass itself didn't really support anything above it that the T&H sole didn't easily deal with.
You might try this if it works with your construction details.
What POs have done is lift the T&H sole and cut into the fiberglass pan below it to access the hose connection to the sump.
They didn't bother replacing the fiberglass because it was a relatively small area, the fiberglass itself didn't really support anything above it that the T&H sole didn't easily deal with.
You might try this if it works with your construction details.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 24,834
That is a fair idea.
The only challenge is that hair and soap scum can accumulate in the bilge.
Best practice is to use a separate sump with a dedicated pump that you can clean out from time to time.
The only challenge is that hair and soap scum can accumulate in the bilge.
"Organic material (hair, soap residue, skin cells) decomposes in standing water, producing the classic “boat smell,” mold, mildew, and bacterial growth. This is especially common when shower water drains directly into the bilge rather than a dedicated sump." (Internet search for effects of accumulation in a bilge)
Hair does not dissolve. It tends to clog pumps and screens. Soap scum acts like glue and can plug your bilge pump; the combination often leads to pump failures. Best practice is to use a separate sump with a dedicated pump that you can clean out from time to time.
Direct quotes from the 2008 hunter manual.
I am curious what cleaning "solutions" do you guys use to clean the filters of soap scum, hair, skin cells, and the like from the shower drain?
I read the manuals of several "toilets" that flush directly through hull. They said not to use common cleaning supplies found in store.
I assume that means white vinegar and bicarbonate?
Similiar to Jim photo.
I am curious what cleaning "solutions" do you guys use to clean the filters of soap scum, hair, skin cells, and the like from the shower drain?
I read the manuals of several "toilets" that flush directly through hull. They said not to use common cleaning supplies found in store.
I assume that means white vinegar and bicarbonate?
Not necessarily vinegar and bicarb.
Cleaning the sump can use dish soap. Yup, simple stuff. Dish soap, Joy or better yet Dawn, is great for many boat cleaning chores. Nothing "marine" related is needed.
Toilets on boats are different because they are not like household toilets. Please, think about it, they do not go to sewers do they?
Buy Peggie Hall's book Boat Odors, available here on this site, and learn about the head systems and other issues you are dealing with.
Good luck.
Cleaning the sump can use dish soap. Yup, simple stuff. Dish soap, Joy or better yet Dawn, is great for many boat cleaning chores. Nothing "marine" related is needed.
Toilets on boats are different because they are not like household toilets. Please, think about it, they do not go to sewers do they?
Buy Peggie Hall's book Boat Odors, available here on this site, and learn about the head systems and other issues you are dealing with.
Good luck.
I only meant that I read up on heads (manufacturers) and they don't use common household cleaners. (I have seen household cleaners laying around in boats for sale).Not necessarily vinegar and bicarb.
Cleaning the sump can use dish soap. Yup, simple stuff. Dish soap, Joy or better yet Dawn, is great for many boat cleaning chores. Nothing "marine" related is needed.
Toilets on boats are different because they are not like household toilets. Please, think about it, they do not go to sewers do they?
Buy Peggie Hall's book Boat Odors, available here on this site, and learn about the head systems and other issues you are dealing with.
Good luck.
I did not mean for you to interpret what I wrote as using say clorax to clean a shower filter.
Dish soap works better then carb and vinegar. Go figure.