Should I use this Outboard for my Dingy?

Chief RA · Dec 19, 2014

Keep it. Take the float bowl off, clean the jets, seal float bowl gasket lip to bottom of carburetor. Get some good gas additive and run it with your gas mix at 50 to 1 and a fresh spark plug. You should be in business! Happy Holidays! Chief

RichH · Dec 19, 2014

Looks like a ~1950s design that usually require a 16:1 or 20:1 fuel/oil mixture to run. Be SURE to have the correct gas/oil mixture. Such oldies are very reliable and never die ... keep it and run the H out of it.

If its in prime condition, consider to donate it to a museum ... (tax write-off).

Chief RA · Dec 19, 2014

If you have 50 year old oil then do 16 to 1, otherwise use the recommended ratios as posted on todays oils. One of the inherent problems with hard starting stemmed from too much of that old oil and consequent plug fouling! Chief, ex-Yamaha dealer,m/x racer

kloudie1 · Dec 19, 2014

My dink engine is a 1967 model Johnson two stroke .. still runs like a top.

Chief RA · Dec 19, 2014

pateco: One of the finest outboards I ever owned was a 4hp, 2 stroke Evinrude, long shaft Yachtwin and loved it. It would push my 26' sailboat at full hull speed, no problem!
OK, I use lucas additive as it seems to keep the carb cleared out. If the motor is not to be used for weeks, I am sure you know to run her dry. No, I do not think 50/1 would hurt your motor but caution is OK. Try 25/1 and work up to when she seems to like the ratio. If you listen close to her talking she will tell you when she is happy by starting and running smooth. Is it water cooled? Old standard oils didn't mix well and stay suspended in the gas like modern 2 stroke oil does. It should be fun to run her and have everyone wanting to know about her.
I was AMA motocross #6 for Veteran class in the state of Arizona when I was almost 40! Was also a tuner for my sons machines. One son motocross CMC #3 N. Calif. the oldest motocross CMC #1 California! Now thats fast! ha
Happy Holidays and enjoy your special days with your son. Chief

PS: Any paste smear on gasket sealer with or without a gasket will work. Select just any good quality 2 stroke oil.

woodster · Dec 19, 2014

there was another brand that looked like that only darker blue SeeBee i think it was looking at the engine is a blast from the past lol

Chief RA · Dec 19, 2014

Woody, Claude: Wouldn't it be fun to get her running great and show her off?
I have always loved motors and especially 2 strokes. They were so much faster than 4 strokes of equal cc size. Today they make the 2 strokes run in larger cc classes against the 4 stroke motorcycles. Then the 4 stroke guys brag about how fast their 4 strokes are! I had one of the last 1973 BSA 500 4 strokes too. Thats the one I ran in Arizona. H*** I loved them all! Still have 3 Yamaha 500 4 strokes! Ran one in Flat Track when I got to old to M/X!

pateco: Let us know if we can be of anymore assistance.

Chief

woodster · Dec 19, 2014

BSA 500 was one that run at Springfield IL in the nationals back in he 60's i think it was the gold star used to have one of them it was a 4 stroke motor

woodster · Dec 19, 2014

one more thing if you get to Barber marina in escambia county AL on the inter coastal stop in and look at his collection of OBs bust have 80 to a 100 of them all completely restored

Chief RA · Dec 19, 2014

Woody: Seems like the Gold Star was a 441 and later they went to a 500. I owned one of the last dirt bikes made by BSA in 73. Ran across Dick Mann at Hangtown and we had a nice time talking about those ol' BSA's. Son won 500 intermediate class at Hangtown same year he took state championship. Flagged Hangtown 10 yrs.
Later, Chief

woodster · Dec 19, 2014

dick Buggsy Mann was the fastest guy at Daytona in 1970 on the big track he couldn't keep tires on those bikes-- 750 hondas

Merlin Clark · Dec 19, 2014

Great deal!
I bought and later sold a Water Tender like that without a motor for $275 a couple years ago!

RichH · Dec 19, 2014

If you use much less than a 24:1 fuel/oil ratio [edit (eg.: 50:1 or 100:1)] in this engine you will risk cylinder scuffing and increase the probability of engine seizure. The clearances and tolerances of this engine are 'sloppy' and require a high ratio of oil in the engine combustion chamber. The downside is that you will have to remove the head and 'decarbonize' the top of the piston avery few 'hundred' hours of operation; plus, change spark plugs frequently - keep a spare spark plug and wrench on hand. This is quite standard for WATER COOLED 2 cycle engines of this design era. Id stick with the (probable) [24:1 corrected] (was originally posted as 16:1) ratio - this should still be embossed on the engine 'cover'.
Look for a ('smokeless') 30 weight NON DETERGENT 2 cycle oil formulated for WATER COOLED outboards. Not a synthetic ... straight 30 weight !!!!
Dont use oil formulated for chain saws, motorcycles, weed whackers, or any other 'air cooled' 2 cycle engine. You want 2 cycle oil specifically formulated for OUTBOARDS.

[Edit: I checked with a few antique OB forums and the consensus is 24:1 for a 1958 3Hp Evinrude. Only after ~1960 did Evinrude recommend a mix ratio of 50:1. Corrections to 24:1 from my original range of 16:1 to 20:1 were edited in the above.
You can check for yourself - websearch: evinrude + 1958 + 3HP + "mix ratio"]

sail_MN · Dec 19, 2014

RichH said:
If you use much less than a 20:1 fuel/oil ratio in this engine you will risk cylinder scuffing and increase the probability of engine seizure. The clearances and tolerances of this engine are 'sloppy' and require a high ratio of oil in the engine combustion chamber. The downside is that you will have to remove the head and 'decarbonize' the top of the piston avery few 'hundred' hours of operation; plus, change spark plugs frequently - keep a spare spark plug and wrench on hand. This is quite standard for WATER COOLED 2 cycle engines of this design era. Id stick with the (probable) 16:1 ratio - this should still be embossed on the engine 'cover'.
Look for a ('smokeless') 30 weight NON DETERGENT 2 cycle oil formulated for WATER COOLED outboards. Not a synthetic ... straight 30 weight !!!!
Dont use oil formulated for chain saws, motorcycles, weed whackers, or any other 'air cooled' 2 cycle engine. You want 2 cycle oil specifically formulated for OUTBOARDS.

In other words... Probably not a good idea.

RichH · Dec 19, 2014

These old Evinrudes run on and on and on. Simply follow the OEM set up.
Ive got one from the 60s that I use extensively ... and it shows virtually NO internal powerhead wear after ~50 years of hard use pushing a dink.
You can still get 'most' of the common parts for these old Evinrude & Johnson engines from the Bombardier/Evinrude dealer network: www.evinrudeonlineparts.com

The way these engines were built, your grandchildren will probably inherit them from you ... if you just do the simple maintenance.

Secret - when long term storing: fog the combustion chamber as you run it dry, open the carb bowl or remove the high speed needle valve screw and with a syringe 'shoot in' isopropyl alcohol to remove the seasons accumulated gum/varnish, then drain and let air dry.
When removing the high speed (and or low speed) needle screws ..... count precisely how many turns (or fraction of turns) 'in' to full closed from your operating setting .... then remove the needle screw. When finished 'rinsing and draining', reinsert and reset based on the exact number of turns 'out' from full closed as above. Dont force the needle screw(s) to fully closed.

Also, every few years remove the power head from the 'bottom' and apply waterproof grease to the SPLINES on shaft that drives the 'bottom gears' and into the 'nose' of the crankshaft, every year if hard used. Will stop/prevent any corrosion/rust from occurring in the mating connection to the crankshaft - the ultimate 'destroyer' of small Evinrudes.

If you live along or near the SE or Gulf coast, VA to Tx, use ONLY marine grade gasoline - eg. - from a Valvtect Marine Fuel Dealer. If you must buy the common (awful) 'ethanolated' gasoline used in automobiles, buy your fuel ONLY from a high turnover (busy) gas station, and then (must) use a stabilizer.