If I take delivery on a brand new boat, should I really spend the money to have the hull painted with Interprotect 2000? Is it really worth the money. What about just putting the basic antifoul (VC17...my favorite). Comments
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what type boat
I know of 2 hunter owners whos bottoms were never touched when bought new. They were just painted. 5 years later, bottom paint does not stick for more than a couple of weeks. Hunter NEVER dewaxed,or protected the bottoms before painting. If you're bottom is shiny new gel coat....at least de-wax the bottom so that bottom paint sticks. (the mold release wax is put on the get the hull out of it's mold) with a new bottom, I would definately suggest going the route of lightly sanding, Interprotect and then painting. regards, Mike C. O'28 "Da Capo"
I know of 2 hunter owners whos bottoms were never touched when bought new. They were just painted. 5 years later, bottom paint does not stick for more than a couple of weeks. Hunter NEVER dewaxed,or protected the bottoms before painting. If you're bottom is shiny new gel coat....at least de-wax the bottom so that bottom paint sticks. (the mold release wax is put on the get the hull out of it's mold) with a new bottom, I would definately suggest going the route of lightly sanding, Interprotect and then painting. regards, Mike C. O'28 "Da Capo"
Yes...
Bill, When my new boat arrived I tried the 'No Sand' approach in an effort to keep my hull warranty within Hunters guidelines (did not read the fine print). I used the dewaxer solvent, then I used the dewaxer solvent and then I used the dewaxer solvent some more all the while thinking of the problems I have seen when a surface is not prepared (sanded & cleaned) properly prior to painting. Worked great for about two weeks...after which the paint began to flake off in sheets that increased in size and frequency as the season progressed until by the end of the season I could leave the dock an hour before my buddies and they could track me by the trail of bottom paint flakes! This Spring I hauled and cleaned the bottom to a factory fresh look needing nothing but a pressure washer to remove the remaining paint. I have since sanded, applied 2000 to a thickness of 10-12mil and followed with my bottom paint and am confident that it will stay put this time. I missed it first time out but my understanding is Hunter does not have a problem with proper sanding if you apply 2000 although you must notify them and receive approval prior to doing the job. Verify this with Hunter but my opinion remains...sand the hull or learn some new four letter words...just my two cents. Have a great day!!
Bill, When my new boat arrived I tried the 'No Sand' approach in an effort to keep my hull warranty within Hunters guidelines (did not read the fine print). I used the dewaxer solvent, then I used the dewaxer solvent and then I used the dewaxer solvent some more all the while thinking of the problems I have seen when a surface is not prepared (sanded & cleaned) properly prior to painting. Worked great for about two weeks...after which the paint began to flake off in sheets that increased in size and frequency as the season progressed until by the end of the season I could leave the dock an hour before my buddies and they could track me by the trail of bottom paint flakes! This Spring I hauled and cleaned the bottom to a factory fresh look needing nothing but a pressure washer to remove the remaining paint. I have since sanded, applied 2000 to a thickness of 10-12mil and followed with my bottom paint and am confident that it will stay put this time. I missed it first time out but my understanding is Hunter does not have a problem with proper sanding if you apply 2000 although you must notify them and receive approval prior to doing the job. Verify this with Hunter but my opinion remains...sand the hull or learn some new four letter words...just my two cents. Have a great day!!
I spoke with Hunter about this.
I spoke with Hunter about this issue. If you are applying a barrier coat, it is okay to sand the bottom before the barrier coat is applied. If you are NOT applying a barrier coat, then you cannot sand the bottom and still retain a warranty. I think that all new boats need the bottoms de-waxed prior to painting.
I spoke with Hunter about this issue. If you are applying a barrier coat, it is okay to sand the bottom before the barrier coat is applied. If you are NOT applying a barrier coat, then you cannot sand the bottom and still retain a warranty. I think that all new boats need the bottoms de-waxed prior to painting.
Barrier Coat is Money Well Spent
Bought our boat new in 1988 near the height of the blister scare. By then the industry had a pretty good idea what was causing the problem and, just for insurance, I had our boat epoxy coated with 2000. A few years later Hunter, as I recall, had a warranty on their hulls against blistering. That's been many moons now. Even so, there are still posting from time to time about people with fairly new boats that have blister problems and I've yet to have a single one. Today it seems to be a roll of the dice whether you get them, or get them bad, or not. Personally, for the couple thousand it cost back then I think it was money well spent. One of the problems with us buying a newer (not new) boat is most of them have never had a barrier coat and I don't want to deal with the cost of drying the hull out and puting one on, or dealing with blister issues, so we just keep the trouble-free boat we have. While a barrier coat may not be necessarily 100% effective, I've never heard of a boat getting blisters that had one properly applied, and ours is 18 years old now. Tip: When the boat is painted I'd suggest using a different color for the first coat so in the future when sanding you can see when you're reaching the last coat. My recommendation would be to go for it.
Bought our boat new in 1988 near the height of the blister scare. By then the industry had a pretty good idea what was causing the problem and, just for insurance, I had our boat epoxy coated with 2000. A few years later Hunter, as I recall, had a warranty on their hulls against blistering. That's been many moons now. Even so, there are still posting from time to time about people with fairly new boats that have blister problems and I've yet to have a single one. Today it seems to be a roll of the dice whether you get them, or get them bad, or not. Personally, for the couple thousand it cost back then I think it was money well spent. One of the problems with us buying a newer (not new) boat is most of them have never had a barrier coat and I don't want to deal with the cost of drying the hull out and puting one on, or dealing with blister issues, so we just keep the trouble-free boat we have. While a barrier coat may not be necessarily 100% effective, I've never heard of a boat getting blisters that had one properly applied, and ours is 18 years old now. Tip: When the boat is painted I'd suggest using a different color for the first coat so in the future when sanding you can see when you're reaching the last coat. My recommendation would be to go for it.
I agree John.
John: I agree with you. We happen to have our boat in an area that is one of the worst for blisters (fresh "warm" water). Our boat is barrier coated in 1987 when she was new. This was part of the Hunter commissioning process at the time. We have not had a single blister on this boat. So I would have to agree that it is sort of an insurance policy. Spend the money now or take a chance and spend many time what a barrier coat will cost to repair blisters.
John: I agree with you. We happen to have our boat in an area that is one of the worst for blisters (fresh "warm" water). Our boat is barrier coated in 1987 when she was new. This was part of the Hunter commissioning process at the time. We have not had a single blister on this boat. So I would have to agree that it is sort of an insurance policy. Spend the money now or take a chance and spend many time what a barrier coat will cost to repair blisters.
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