Because of the low water levels in the Great Lakes, I would like to shorten the draft on a Hunter 40 that currently has a 6'6" draft. I have heard it is possible to cut the keel and bolt half a bulb on either side of the shortened keel to create a bulb keel. Has anyone ever experienced or know of anyone that has done this? Or does anyone have any other suggestions?
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Ron Dague
www.marsmetal.com
This question/topic comes up about every 3 or 4 months. More info is available in the archives, but it appears that it is really feasible with a cast iron keel, only lead. And Mars Metal is the biggest/best at it.
This question/topic comes up about every 3 or 4 months. More info is available in the archives, but it appears that it is really feasible with a cast iron keel, only lead. And Mars Metal is the biggest/best at it.
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Terry Houwerzyl
Short keel
I have a 5' draft on my Hunter 40 and if there was one thing that I would change it would be to go to the deeper draft. Most of the bays are only 12' to 15' and there are a lot of places we would not be able to go, but I have noticed that the boat seems to be more tender than my deeper draft 31'. When you tap the bottom with the shorter keel there is nothing to protect the rudder from dragging.
I have a 5' draft on my Hunter 40 and if there was one thing that I would change it would be to go to the deeper draft. Most of the bays are only 12' to 15' and there are a lot of places we would not be able to go, but I have noticed that the boat seems to be more tender than my deeper draft 31'. When you tap the bottom with the shorter keel there is nothing to protect the rudder from dragging.
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Colin
Give John a call!
I have a friend who went though this with an Express 35 and he used Mars Metals right here in my home town. If you would like to speak to John about his experience, post your conact info and I will bring you together.
I have a friend who went though this with an Express 35 and he used Mars Metals right here in my home town. If you would like to speak to John about his experience, post your conact info and I will bring you together.
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Don
One thing to think about.
I just went from a deep draft 31 to a 37.5, which has the shoal draft/wing keel. I have always been concerned with the 5'6" on my 31 and thought the 4'11" of the 37.5 would be great. I sail the Chesapeake where depths range widely. But now folks tell me that grounding the 37.5 with the wing keel is more of a problem than it was with the old 31. With the fin keel you can back off, and I have done so many times. With the wing keel they say you're pretty much stuck till you figure something else out. Now, I'm more nervous with the 37.5 than I was with the 31 deep draft. Something to think about.
I just went from a deep draft 31 to a 37.5, which has the shoal draft/wing keel. I have always been concerned with the 5'6" on my 31 and thought the 4'11" of the 37.5 would be great. I sail the Chesapeake where depths range widely. But now folks tell me that grounding the 37.5 with the wing keel is more of a problem than it was with the old 31. With the fin keel you can back off, and I have done so many times. With the wing keel they say you're pretty much stuck till you figure something else out. Now, I'm more nervous with the 37.5 than I was with the 31 deep draft. Something to think about.
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Johnny Hughes
Love the shoal draft
I too have the 40 with the shoal draft and I love it. My only concern is that the rudder is the same length as the keel. I have not had any problems with it, but have talked with another 40 owner near here who had to replace his rudder twice because of grounding. The owner of the other 40 cut 18 inches off his rudder and seems to be happy with it. I am considering removing about 8-10" from the bottom of my rudder just to be on the safe side. I was tempted to try and cut off some of the keel on my prior boat(h34) and add lead to the sides near the bottom of the keel, but never did. Would be a very big job to cut that cast iron keel. Good luck.
I too have the 40 with the shoal draft and I love it. My only concern is that the rudder is the same length as the keel. I have not had any problems with it, but have talked with another 40 owner near here who had to replace his rudder twice because of grounding. The owner of the other 40 cut 18 inches off his rudder and seems to be happy with it. I am considering removing about 8-10" from the bottom of my rudder just to be on the safe side. I was tempted to try and cut off some of the keel on my prior boat(h34) and add lead to the sides near the bottom of the keel, but never did. Would be a very big job to cut that cast iron keel. Good luck.
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Jim
Break away rudder
If you are really serious I would recommend shortening the rudder and replacing that portion with a break away section in the event you grounded.
If you are really serious I would recommend shortening the rudder and replacing that portion with a break away section in the event you grounded.
Shorten the keel, shorten the rudder?
Brian: I think I'd get a new boat before I spent this much money and ruin a perfectly good boat. With the money you may spend to do this you can just sell yours and buy another boat is more approiate for your sailing area.
Brian: I think I'd get a new boat before I spent this much money and ruin a perfectly good boat. With the money you may spend to do this you can just sell yours and buy another boat is more approiate for your sailing area.
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Gene Thompson
I had the same question
Brian, I submitted the same question about eight months ago. Heard the many similar responses. Everyone made good points. However, your situation is unique and requires a customized solution that fits a Great Lakes sailor. I say this because no one knows what the water level will be from month to month, let alone year to year. (The Geological survey people are still learning the art of predicting Great lakes water levels). If you're worried about occasionally being stuck at the dock, you need to own a shorter keel, regardless of what it's attached to. If you're concerned with running aground while sailing or motoring, then you may want to simply restrict your route to well known known deep water. Shaving 10 or 12 inches off of your keel didn't seem worth it to me. Based on all the advice I received here, I concluded that it would be too detrimental to the boats re-sale. So, if your not trapped at the dock, just be very carefull. If you can't get out of the marina 100% of the time, I would recommend trading boats for for a shorter keel.
Brian, I submitted the same question about eight months ago. Heard the many similar responses. Everyone made good points. However, your situation is unique and requires a customized solution that fits a Great Lakes sailor. I say this because no one knows what the water level will be from month to month, let alone year to year. (The Geological survey people are still learning the art of predicting Great lakes water levels). If you're worried about occasionally being stuck at the dock, you need to own a shorter keel, regardless of what it's attached to. If you're concerned with running aground while sailing or motoring, then you may want to simply restrict your route to well known known deep water. Shaving 10 or 12 inches off of your keel didn't seem worth it to me. Based on all the advice I received here, I concluded that it would be too detrimental to the boats re-sale. So, if your not trapped at the dock, just be very carefull. If you can't get out of the marina 100% of the time, I would recommend trading boats for for a shorter keel.
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Claude L.-Auger
To shorten or not, that is the question
I too am in a very shallow area and appreciate a shoal draft. Last year when I was looking for a H34, one came up that had everything I was looking for. Only problem was it had the deep draft keep (5'6") and I was wanting the shoal draft (4'3"). I contacted Marsmetal, then talked to a metal shop to arrange for cutting the bottom 15" and drilling the required holes for the attachments of the lead bulbs. When everything was calculated, total cost was over $7,000 including transporting the lead bulbs to the yard. Since I was buying a boat, I decided not to go ahead with the project. If I had owned a boat that I loved, I might have gone ahead with the project as it is generally cheaper than getting another boat. There was an excellent article in Cruising World a couple of years ago where the owner of a Pacific Seacraft 37 described what he did and how pleased he was with it. Mars metal might have it in their archives. No solution offered, but just thought I'd share this with you. Good luck with your decision
I too am in a very shallow area and appreciate a shoal draft. Last year when I was looking for a H34, one came up that had everything I was looking for. Only problem was it had the deep draft keep (5'6") and I was wanting the shoal draft (4'3"). I contacted Marsmetal, then talked to a metal shop to arrange for cutting the bottom 15" and drilling the required holes for the attachments of the lead bulbs. When everything was calculated, total cost was over $7,000 including transporting the lead bulbs to the yard. Since I was buying a boat, I decided not to go ahead with the project. If I had owned a boat that I loved, I might have gone ahead with the project as it is generally cheaper than getting another boat. There was an excellent article in Cruising World a couple of years ago where the owner of a Pacific Seacraft 37 described what he did and how pleased he was with it. Mars metal might have it in their archives. No solution offered, but just thought I'd share this with you. Good luck with your decision
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