Shore water pressure reducer

JohnVTX · Jun 27, 2017

45 is quite low. It is what most RV's use. Some use up to 60psi

Gunni · Jun 27, 2017

I recommend that you not use this kind of direct connection. There is a not-insignificant risk of developing a plumbing leak with an unlimited supply of water and a tub (your boat) with a small little bilge pump. I know the power boat boys and RV people use them...but it isn't ship-shape

Gunni · Jun 27, 2017

45psi is fine, but when a pressure reducer fails, and they do wear out you may have a problem that exceeds any convenience you gained. Fill your tanks and manage your water system independently.

Two years ago our marina hired a LPTA water -system winterization contractor to blow out the water lines, irrigation system one week, potable the next. What he didn't know, or didn't care about was that the irrigation system was fed from the potable water system. When he put air pressure from the construction compressor on the irrigation system he blew out the backflow preventer into the potable connection and I found my self washing the deck with what looked like drilling mud (think baby poop). Good thing I didn't have that hose anywhere near my potable water system.

JohnVTX · Jun 27, 2017

RWSlater said:
I can't see any disadvantage to using it, but I can see a huge problem if I don't and this extreme water pressure at this boat yard causes leaks. What will it hurt to use it?

Unattended with a leak it could sink

Don S/V ILLusion · Jun 27, 2017

RWSlater said:
I don't intend to leave the water on when I am not at the boat

Like most risks, including walking across the street, it's all about choices. We (too) gladly accept the risk of forgetting to shut off the supply line happening concurrent with some plumbing failure for the convenience of unlimited water when parked at the dock.

If people succumbed to every risk, no one would dare get out of bed.

I installed two pressure reducers in series which obviously affords duplicate protection but the real reason was simply to lengthen the connection at the transom to allow room for turning the co-located ball valve

Mikem · Jun 27, 2017

I don't use one as my shore connection water line passes right over my webasto furnace and attendant wiring harness. If your lazarette is clear then it would be ok to use the shore water but turn it off when the boat is unattended. By using our tanks the water stays fresh and the tanks clean. Perhaps you could alternate shore and boat.

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SG · Jun 27, 2017

My thoughts:

If a simple fresh water hose fitting lets go and you can sink your boat. The 45 psi pressure is a lot more than a through hull. Your plumbing fittings aren't usually double clamped.

A problem with a shore pressurized freshwater system happens a lot more than through hulls letting go.

I'd guess every other year, or so, one lets go in our marina in Annapolis. It's always a mess -- at best. Sometimes worse. A number of boats have a cut-off valve that simple blocks the connection.

What's the purpose of leaving the hose connection "charged" if you're not on the boat? It's one thing if you're on the boat, but I'm not sure what the convenience is all about?

I've been guilty of occasionally saying "Aw, muck it" (or something like that). Occasionally, I've had that come back to bite me. ;^)))

Don S/V ILLusion · Jun 27, 2017

SG said:
My thoughts:

If a simple fresh water hose fitting lets go and you can sink your boat. The 45 psi pressure is a lot more than a through hull. Your plumbing fittings aren't usually double clamped.

They should be regardless of use of shore water

A problem with a shore pressurized freshwater system happens a lot more than through hulls letting go.

I'd be interested in seeing actual statistics after hearing that. In the 20 years at our prior marina and 8 at our present one, it's never happened to anyone.

What's the purpose of leaving the hose connection "charged" if you're not on the boat?

Don't think anyone suggested that

Rick486 · Jun 28, 2017

Gunni said:
I recommend that you not use this kind of direct connection. There is a not-insignificant risk of developing a plumbing leak with an unlimited supply of water and a tub (your boat) with a small little bilge pump. I know the power boat boys and RV people use them...but it isn't ship-shape

I agree. Lemme give an example. Recently the hot water hose popped off my hot water tank while I was aboard. I heard the water pressure pump go on and quickly caught it before more than about 1 gallon of water was in the bilge. This was eventually traceable to wear in the hose connector due to removal of the connection each fall to drain the tank. Had Maxine been plugged into the marina water system and I had not been aboard....well who knows what might have happened. I would recommend against using that direct connection as Gunni says above. Just fill your fresh water tank when needed. And if you do use that direct connection, devise a fool proof means of reminding yourself to close a valve on the dock to that connection when you leave the boat. Leaving your car keys on the valve is a good one.

VT Fitz · Jun 28, 2017

A lot of interesting debate in this thread. Everyone makes good points. My 2¢ worth:

I wanted to install city water on our n-t-u ’07 Hunter 27-3, but the admiral told me not to bother. She was happy to live with the pressurized system on board and refill the 20 gal tank, as needed. That said, while the question remains open for the longer term in my mind, there are certainly much higher priorities for me this season.

Last season, I installed city water on our H23.5 and added a second separate faucet in the galley. She only had the OEM Whale Flipper hand pump, which made it hard to wash dishes! Plus changing out the 5 gal bladders was a PIA. I had a pressure reducer on the inlet and didn’t fully open the dock spigot anyway. The admiral had endorsed that upgrade and enjoyed the convenience of it last season.

I was religious in turning off the dock spigot when leaving, so I never worried about “filling up my tub.”

I respect the views and warnings of those who advocate forcefully against adding this system.

You makes your choices;
You takes your chances…

JamesG161 · Jun 30, 2017

Gunni said:
I recommend that you not use this kind of direct connection.

_____
Municipal water pressure minimum 20 psi
20 psi water will pump water 40+ feet straight up
_________
Since most of my water use on the boat is at about sea level, I would suggest 10 psi would be less of a risk to busting pipe fittings and sinking your boat.
________
The only pump I can find on my boat that is NOT ≤ 10 psi is the tiny fresh water supply pump, that is rated at 2 gpm and sourced from a maximum 100 gallon tank. (not a boat sinker). It has a pressure cut off of ±40 psi.

RWSlater said:
bought a pressure reducer

Now you are trusting that reducer will flawlessly work.
If you got the right type of reducer, it should be "on demand" pressure REGULATOR type.
Zero flow = Zero pressure. ( just like a shut off valve)

Jim...

PS: Even my sea water pumps are ≤ 10 psi.

Maine Sail · Jun 30, 2017

Gunni said:
I recommend that you not use this kind of direct connection. There is a not-insignificant risk of developing a plumbing leak with an unlimited supply of water and a tub (your boat) with a small little bilge pump.

Bingo! We have a winner!!!

I know of multiple vessels sunk or badly damaged by this practice... It's one thing to have a leak in your house or RV and entirely another to have your boat being filled by street pressure..

Fill the tanks, use the water, fill the tanks, use the water it's really pretty simple.

Shore water pressure reducer

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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