shore power & Reverse polarity

[MrBee]

Thanks all,

IF I remember correctly the male pin that showed signs of heat / arching was the first pin clockwise from the L shaped pin.

I have old shore cable here at home and think I will just go with the better style shore connection, the new Smartplug style. And run all new cable up to the Breaker. I plan on this anyway so now would be the best time to switch to the smartplug.

I would like to run some test to figure out where the problem is for the education it will give me.

 

[FourPoints]

the boat breaker panel and swithes are all the old push button type. I don't like these at all and am already planing and pricing replacements, I just was not thinking of doing it this soon on the priority list. (Looking at the Bleasea 8099 or 8412, have to measure for fit next time at boat. )

I would strongly encourage you to check out http://www.bassproducts.com/panels.htm before you make any decisions. They used to manufacture the panels for Blue Sea before Blue Sea got big. They also make the panels for a number of high end manufacturers and even some for the US Navy. The actual breakers are the same as Blue Sea as both companies get them from someone else so you can always pick up replacments at west marine if you need.

I just ordered a new 16 breaker panel from them last week, custom made for my requirements with 14 appropriately sized breakers preinstalled for each circuit I need (and room for 2 more if I later need) preinstalled / prewired in the panel, $380. EDIT: this also includes voltmeter, bilge switch and 12v receptacle.

 

[MrBee]

When a high current or amperage load is dumped into the circuit, like a heater, there may be enough voltage drop in the white/neutral to exceed the resistance in the 25K resistor required by ABYC for the RPI light. When this happens, likely due to under sized wire or a high resistance connection, enough current can be driven through to light the RPI to cause it to faintly illuminate as the OP described..

Also one of the worst offenders of neutral to ground connections on boats are water heaters. Water heater empty, someone turns it on, element cracks now we have a leak to ground. You'd be amazed at how often this happens...

Thanks Mainsail,
I believe you may have just hit on something....
No polarity light for a couple months, then we completely flushed out the water system, as per Peggie's Recommendations, THEN after filled turned on water heater. I can't be sure now but When at the boat this weekend I can check. I'll have to trace how the water heater is hooked up and how to check that it is ok. i know we didn't have it on without water but who knows what the PO did.

 

[MrBee]

Thanks Fourpoints I'll check them out.

Brian

 

[J Hunter]

Some have mentioned the use of "dielectric paste" for a poorly connecting shore power plug. Dielectric paste is insulating paste and is beneficial only to the extent that it seals out air and moisture from around a connection, preventing corrosion/oxidation. Many, many people swear by it for mating up outdoor plugs, bulbs, etc. so I certainly won't get into an argument about it it's suitability for this purpose, just a clarification about the word "dielectric" which means electrical insulator and by definition cannot make a connection better.