Shore Power Problems

ryansk

.
Nov 24, 2015
21
hunter 27 oologah
Hello,
I have a 1993 H27 with an inboard diesel. Recently I have been having problems with my shore power tripping the GFI outlet on the dock. Somedays it seems to work fine and others it will trip the outlet just from plugging the power chord in. I have tested the power chord, the pigtail, & the outlet at the dock. They all checked good. I do not run air conditioning or refrigeration. Seems strange that with all my onboard switches off, I'm still tripping the GFI. Anyone ever had a similar problem? I hate electrical gremlins! Thanks in advance.
 

DaveJ

.
Apr 2, 2013
474
Catalina 310 Niagara-on-the-Lake
I would suggest that you try plugging into another shore power receptacle. If it does not trip, the problem may be with the original receptacle. If the new one trips...the problem is somewhere in your electrical system.

Cheers
 
Jan 11, 2014
12,746
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I'm going to guess that it is the pigtail, especially if it is a home made one.

Have you borrowed a known good power cord and pigtail? Are you connecting a 30 Amp boat circuit to a 20 amp shore circuit?
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,481
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
We're having the same issues on our docks on multiple boats. Doesn't happen off season in the yardspaces. On my dock circuit, I've replaced the shore power cord and the GFI outlet with no improvement. Same symptoms and conditions as you. I've already tried different outlets and removed the pigtail altogether. I had begun to believe it was my boat system but 1) is doesn't happen in the boatyard. 2) it's happening to other boats
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Might be a bad outlet on the dock. On my boat with all switches off there is an incandescent light on showing the panel is energized. So you may have current flowing even with all switches off
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
GFI's measure current between the hot wire and neutral wire IIRC. If different they trip.
"When a GFCI trips, there must be a reason. Instead of just resetting the GFCI, you also must investigate the cause of the trip. Ground faults occur when electrical current finds an unintended path to ground. The usual ground-fault suspects include worn insulation, conductive dusts, water, or other “soft grounds.”
 

JamesG161

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Feb 14, 2014
7,745
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
I am surprised there is a GFI on Shore Power. A tripped breaker doesn't mean it is a Ground Fault Interrupt.
GFI's are meant to protect people from a high Amp rush.

Are you meaning the "outlet" would plug Standard household 3 prong plugs?

Or a Standard Marine Twist lock?

A GFI outlet will be Marked.

Tripped standard breaker would mean a different problem.
Jim...
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
The most common reason for a tripped dockside GFCI is an improperly wired vessel with a ground/neutral bond on-board. A 5mA trip household GFCI should not be used to plug in a 30A service vessel. Keep in mind that the GFCI leakage current can be cumulative so if your dock neighbor is on this same GFCI circuit, and you each have a 2.5mA leak, then pop it goes...
 

Gunni

.
Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
The GFCI is in the wrong location. You should be managing GFCI on board, not the piling. Talk to the marina and ask who did the wiring and why. My guess whomever did it has NO marine electric experience.
 
Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
I hate to add to the expert advice that you have already received, but here goes. First, you're sure it's a GFI, not just a breaker? With all electrical issues with a known failure mode, you can find the problem by adding things sequentially. So when does it trip? If you plug in just your power cord alone (no boat), or when you add the boat with the breaker Off (just the galvanic isolator), then On (battery charger), etc. Remember, there's probably things "on" even though the DC breakers are off. For example, I'll bet your battery charger is not on a breaker (other than the main AC breaker) but turns on as soon as the AC is on.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,481
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
The most common reason for a tripped dockside GFCI is an improperly wired vessel with a ground/neutral bond on-board. A 5mA trip household GFCI should not be used to plug in a 30A service vessel. Keep in mind that the GFCI leakage current can be cumulative so if your dock neighbor is on this same GFCI circuit, and you each have a 2.5mA leak, then pop it goes...
I don't mean to hijack the thread. Maybe my comments will help the OP: If a boat was improperly wired wouldn't the tripping be consistent? In the slip, I can run everything on board sometimes with no problems. Wouldn't the problem appear on the trailer in the yard too? The yard outlet is also a GFI. On our dock, each pedestal has 4 outlets. Each outlet protected by a circuit breaker. The CBs do not trip.
I appreciate the comments.
 
Nov 13, 2013
723
Catalina 34 Tacoma
I have a GFI in my garage that trips when it's rainy outside. Moisture content in the air seems to affect the electrical load it trips at. Not sure what the difference would be for a marine grade GFI.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,481
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
The GFI outlets on our docks are all indoor grade. I replaced "mine" with a new outdoor rated one. It made no difference. Again, this may or may not save the OP some time and money.
 
Nov 13, 2013
723
Catalina 34 Tacoma
Also as others have said. I have no GFI on the dock. Only a circuit breaker. GFI is in the boat. I would think it's much more susceptible to nuisance trips when humidity levels are high when installed on the dock.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I don't mean to hijack the thread. Maybe my comments will help the OP: If a boat was improperly wired wouldn't the tripping be consistent? In the slip, I can run everything on board sometimes with no problems. Wouldn't the problem appear on the trailer in the yard too? The yard outlet is also a GFI. On our dock, each pedestal has 4 outlets. Each outlet protected by a circuit breaker. The CBs do not trip.
I appreciate the comments.
Not necessarily because the leakage could be below 5mA and it is not until another boat plugs into the same GFCI "circuit" that the GFCI trips because the cumulative leakage has now exceeded 5mA.

Plugging a vessel into a 15A or 20A household receptacle is NOT proper shore power. This is problem #1.

Problem #2 gets a lot more complex. I have posted this before but will post it again...

The current NFPA 70 / NEC requirements Article 555 Marinas & Boatyards, which rolled out in 2011, requires a 100mA ground fault protection level for marina docks. In the upcoming 2017 NFPA 70 / NEC 555 this maximum level is reportedly going to drop from 100mA to 30mA. The OP is trying to plug his vessel into a 5mA trip level GFCI..

(Copy & paste of a previous reply)
The Problem With the New Mandates:

#1 NFPA 70 / NEC requirements do not mandate protection at each dock pedestal, which would be the only prudent way to adopt or phase this into an entire industry where the safety standards are voluntary and arguably grossly ignored.

As I type this I am currently waiting for a customers phone to cool down so we can continue troubleshooting his shore system via video messaging. He is in the BVI and can't find a decent electrician to save his life. So far we've found on-board AC neutral bonded to AC Earth and his two 30A shore inlets have common neutral bonding. Somewhere in his travels he had a failed 8kW generator ripped out, by some hacks, who left a ghost transfer switch and ran the ghost wires to where ever they found an open terminal. It is a freaking mess, a mess I repeatedly tried to talk him into fixing before he headed off cruising. "seems to work" he'd say.... He began complaining of issues when his vessel began tripping up to code marina's and shutting entire docks down. The non-transients at these marinas were none too happy and the marinas finally told him not to plug in..

As a result of NFPA/NEC not requiring 100mA or 30mA ground fault protection at the pedestal level, for each boat, any vessel plugging into a dock pedestal that is protected by an upstream ground fault device can create nuisance trips for every boat on that same feed. This = BAD (safe, but bad)

Shore based ground fault devices that cover multiple pedestals (boats), can result in a nuisance trip that depowers all the boats on that string and create a lost power situation to all of those vessels, just as my customer has done, at no less than 3 or 4 marinas since leaving Maine.

This NFPA / NEC roll out has already cost boaters significant $$ in destroyed battery banks etc.. Unfortunately the boaters who lost out may not have been the ones who created the problem just the recipient of what I often refer to as Darryl & Darryl wiring, for those old enough to get the Newhart reference.. No offense to any Darryl's out there....

The NFPA / NEC ground fault requirements are only serving to expose the horrendous wiring that has gone on in the marine industry for far too long. Even if your boat is properly wired, to ABYC standards, you can still suffer the consequences of Darryl & Darryl hack jobbing their own boat because the NFPA/NEC requirement is not at the power pedestal/individual boat level.

For what it is worth I have very infrequently come across an owner who believed it was their boat creating the leakage or corrosion issues. In almost all cases it starts out as "someone else's problem" until the fault is found on-board...

#2 Far too many boats out there are not wired to meet or exceed the ABYC safety standards. The NFPA / NEC could really care less about this, it's not their issue. When you plug an incorrectly wired vessel into the new NFPA /NEC shore standards, requiring ground fault protection, it can now become everyone's issue not just the problem vessel.

Boats that are not wired to current ABYC standards, as a group, have very, very high ground fault percentages. For example the number of boats I measure with AC grounding (GREEN) and AC Neutral (WHITE) bonded on-board the vessel (A huge no-no) is in the range of 35-40% +/-. This is INSANE, but it is the reality of a voluntary standard that has gone largely ignored by boat owners, or DIY wiring done by local dock-experts who think they know more than the standards organizations, and far too many folks who call themselves marine electricians..

Bottom Line? Improperly wired vessels, vessels not wired to ABYC standards, can cause nuisance tripping of shore ground fault interrupters. This sill be rarer at 100mA or 30mA and quite a common occurrence at 5mA...

The sheer age of many vessels also means some of them have equipment that is so antiquated that it too creates an inadvertent neutral to grounding bond on-board the vessel..

#3 The Rx?

Marina Rx: Marina's who want happy customers should ideally install a 100mA or 30mA ground fault device at each pedestal, not 5mA, so one boat can not take out an entire dock or entire group of vessels. This is in compliance with NFPA 70 / NEC and actually exceeds the minimum requirements. By installing a ground fault device at each pedestal this prevents Darryl & Darryl's stellar wiring job from taking out your boat when they create a nuisance trip.

Marina's also need to comprehend and understand that leakage is additive. If we have ten boats each leaking 4 mA, which is not even enough for each boat to trip an individual 120V 5mA GFCI, those ten boats together can trip a single 30 mA ground fault device.

Marina's should prohibit vessels that cause a nuisance trips, from plugging into their system, until the fault has been corrected. If a vessel is tripping a 100mA threshold device (and this is not due to additive leakage) this creates a very dangerous potential for electric shock drowning.

The issue & mess of nuisance tripping will only get worse when the NEC drops to 30mA in 2017..

Marina's need to fully understand the new requirements and be trained on how to conduct spot audits and to check for individual vessel issues that would otherwise create problems for the rest of their customers. Or do it right and install a 30mA device at each pedestal, this way only the offending customer is left without power..

When a marina is re-wired they now need to become in compliance with the current shore based standards. Shore standards extend to the dock pedestal receptacle, and ABYC standards begin at the shore power cordset.

This problem of nuisance tripping is only going to get worse, much worse as time goes on and more and more marinas become in compliance with the NFPA 70 / NEC requirements. Once the code drops to 30mA, to protect multiple pedestals, it will become even worse.



Boat Owner Rx:
Wire your vessel to the current ABYC standards and you will no longer create dangerous situations, power loss or dead batteries for those around you who do have properly wired boats.

Two Easy Tests for 120V 30A Service (these two tests barely scratch the surface but its a start):

1- Use a high resolution AC clamp meter set to measure A or mA. Extech, Yokogowa and Fluke all make excellent AC leakage clamp testers. Ideally every marina should own one. Power up your on-board AC devices (hopefully all of them) & place the clamp around your shore power cord. The reading should be 0.0A. Any reading above this is indicating an amperage imbalance between the hot and neutral AC conductors and indicating that this missing current is leaking elsewhere eg: into the water..

2- One of the easiest tests or starting points is to physically unplug your vessel from the pedestal and be sure your inverter is decoupled from DC so it does not auto-invert. Make sure any manual transfer switches are set to SHORE. Now test for continuity between AC WHITE/Neutral and AC GREEN/Earth/Grounding pins at the shore end of the cord or at your on-board grounding bus and neutral bus.. There should be no continuity.

If you find issues you are unsure of I would suggest bringing in a professional....
 
Jun 11, 2011
1,243
Hunter 41 Lewes
I agree with much of what MS said with the exception that any boat with an isolation transformer derives it's Ground/Neutral from the secondary side of the transformer and the primary side which goes to the pedestal only sees load on the Hot and Neutral, if correctly wired, and so will never trip a GFCI device of any kind. It will still trip the breaker if it overloads that safety device. Current overloads should never trip a properly functioning GFCI device, they don't actually see that problem. Leakage will only be additive if it's all on the load side of the same device not if on different devices. We need a little more information from the OP.
 
May 24, 2004
7,164
CC 30 South Florida
We had an issue years ago and brought in a licensed electrician with ample marine experience. He concluded after performing various tests that the culprit was a GFCI breaker installed on the dock side which tripped the land based main breaker when the boat was connected to it. He could not find significant traces of stray electricity and the GFCI was not tripping but he suggested the GFCI breaker be eliminated. As the GFCI protected receptacle could only accommodate the 30A twist connector it was not as if it would be used for any home appliance and the boat circuitry had tested fine. After the dock GFCI breaker was removed we never again had any problems with the land based main breaker tripping. The electrician just gave a simple explanation for the fault, "sometimes these things (GFCI) malfunction like this and being on a single circuit to a shorepower plug there is really no need for it as long as the boat has its own protection". At first I was a little hesitant but once I worked through it and realized that he had not introduced any additional danger of fire and that the GFCI protection was redundant and that the result was that the main breaker tripping stopped I had to say "this fellow did know something" The useful life of the shaft's anode continued to be the same.
 

ryansk

.
Nov 24, 2015
21
hunter 27 oologah
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will try a few different things next time I'm on the boat.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I agree with much of what MS said with the exception that any boat with an isolation transformer derives it's Ground/Neutral from the secondary side of the transformer and the primary side which goes to the pedestal only sees load on the Hot and Neutral, if correctly wired, and so will never trip a GFCI device of any kind. It will still trip the breaker if it overloads that safety device. Current overloads should never trip a properly functioning GFCI device, they don't actually see that problem. Leakage will only be additive if it's all on the load side of the same device not if on different devices. We need a little more information from the OP.
Yes an Isolation Transformer is a different beast but I strongly doubt the OP's Hunter 27 has one. Heck were lucky in the marine market just to get folks to spend $300.00 on the bare minimum galvanic isolator...:wink:
 

Pat

.
Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
Justin, I had an issue many years ago where I was experiencing battery drain; only to find out the radio on board was using power to keep the memory going for the stations on the stereo system....it was going causing a slow drain despite being off at the switch - was the way it was wired....both the station memory and clock on the cd were the culprits.