I like to leave my adler barbar refrigeration on all summer. I am concerned about over working my bateries by constantly draining them with the fridge and replenishing them with the battery charger. Is there a a way to run from shore power and not going through the batteries?
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I would not do it.
It is not good for your boat to leave shore power plugged in all the time. I only plug in when I stay on the boat. As a matter of fact, it is not good when the boats next to your boat leave the shore power on all the time. Just because they want cold beer we get corrosion and hull problems! What if you develop an electrical problem, there is no one is onboard to smell the smoke! There goes your boat, your neighbors boat and the dock!
It is not good for your boat to leave shore power plugged in all the time. I only plug in when I stay on the boat. As a matter of fact, it is not good when the boats next to your boat leave the shore power on all the time. Just because they want cold beer we get corrosion and hull problems! What if you develop an electrical problem, there is no one is onboard to smell the smoke! There goes your boat, your neighbors boat and the dock!
Another point of view
I don't see any problem with shore power and refridge on all the time. Most all C320 owners do this. I leave my air conditioner always on at the dock to keep out mold and mildew. Set it at 78 and always nice when I go to the boat. Go for it!
I don't see any problem with shore power and refridge on all the time. Most all C320 owners do this. I leave my air conditioner always on at the dock to keep out mold and mildew. Set it at 78 and always nice when I go to the boat. Go for it!
Not true, Jim
You don't disconnect power to your house when you're not there...there's no reason to disconnect it from your boat...'cuz it's not shore power that causes problems, it's improperly grounded/badly maintained boats. It's actually better for your boat to remain connected to shore power. It's better for a refrigerator to leave it on all the time, because the hardest work the compressor has to do is bring down the temperature in a warm box--it's the start-up that puts the most wear and stress on it, 'cuz while it sits off, lubrication settles in the motor...keeping it cold is light duty. Forcing it to work that hard shortens the life of the compessor considerably. The odds that shore power would cause a fire are no greater--in fact, much smaller--than the odds of a 12v circuit starting a fire...and both are much lower than the odds that, without shore power to the battery charger to keep it charged, something could drain your battery, preventing your bilge pumps from keeping your boat afloat. Maintain your boat and stay plugged in.
You don't disconnect power to your house when you're not there...there's no reason to disconnect it from your boat...'cuz it's not shore power that causes problems, it's improperly grounded/badly maintained boats. It's actually better for your boat to remain connected to shore power. It's better for a refrigerator to leave it on all the time, because the hardest work the compressor has to do is bring down the temperature in a warm box--it's the start-up that puts the most wear and stress on it, 'cuz while it sits off, lubrication settles in the motor...keeping it cold is light duty. Forcing it to work that hard shortens the life of the compessor considerably. The odds that shore power would cause a fire are no greater--in fact, much smaller--than the odds of a 12v circuit starting a fire...and both are much lower than the odds that, without shore power to the battery charger to keep it charged, something could drain your battery, preventing your bilge pumps from keeping your boat afloat. Maintain your boat and stay plugged in.
DIrect Connect to AC?
Raleigh, I'm not aware of an AB having 120v power connections. I thought that they only ran from the batteries. (Correct me if I'm wrong). Hence, when left on (and they should be) they will constantly draw from the batteries and the batteries will have to be charged. Leave the fridge running, as well as the charger. My fridge is a Norcold and has both options. When plugged in, I leave it connected to shore power and always running. I have two switches on my control pl=anel - one for AC and one for DC.
Raleigh, I'm not aware of an AB having 120v power connections. I thought that they only ran from the batteries. (Correct me if I'm wrong). Hence, when left on (and they should be) they will constantly draw from the batteries and the batteries will have to be charged. Leave the fridge running, as well as the charger. My fridge is a Norcold and has both options. When plugged in, I leave it connected to shore power and always running. I have two switches on my control pl=anel - one for AC and one for DC.
Proper charger will do the trick
The last thing you want to do is "short cycle" your deep cycle house bank. This will shorten the battery life. With an older style charger the batteries will supply the amps for the refer and the charger will replenish the batteries when the voltage dropps and the compresser shuts down. Get a stepped charger that will kick in to add output to match an intermittant load (like refrig). NOTE not all stepped chargers do this. This way the charger is supplying the amps, not the battery. One that does is the Xantrex truecharge. It can also be set to act as a 12 volt power source so you could set it up to provide direct power to the refer.
The last thing you want to do is "short cycle" your deep cycle house bank. This will shorten the battery life. With an older style charger the batteries will supply the amps for the refer and the charger will replenish the batteries when the voltage dropps and the compresser shuts down. Get a stepped charger that will kick in to add output to match an intermittant load (like refrig). NOTE not all stepped chargers do this. This way the charger is supplying the amps, not the battery. One that does is the Xantrex truecharge. It can also be set to act as a 12 volt power source so you could set it up to provide direct power to the refer.
AC POWER
DO NOT PUT AC POWER DIRECTLY TO YOUR A/B UNIT IT RUNS ON DC. KEEP YOUR BATTERY CHARGER ON AND IT WILL KEEP THE BATTERIES CHARGED AND THE COLD MACHINE RUNNING
DO NOT PUT AC POWER DIRECTLY TO YOUR A/B UNIT IT RUNS ON DC. KEEP YOUR BATTERY CHARGER ON AND IT WILL KEEP THE BATTERIES CHARGED AND THE COLD MACHINE RUNNING
Answering the Question
Raleigh, The answer to your question is yes. You can run power to your 12 volt DC devices without going through your battery charger. You would use a 12 volt power supply instead. It would need to feed your 12 volt panel and disconnect the battery power at the same time. This is usually accomplished by a double throw switch. I do, however, agree with Peggy. Use your boat's 12 volt existing system to run the boat while you are away and let your battery charger take care of the load. I think it is best for your battery to have a draw on it. IMHO, Mike D
Raleigh, The answer to your question is yes. You can run power to your 12 volt DC devices without going through your battery charger. You would use a 12 volt power supply instead. It would need to feed your 12 volt panel and disconnect the battery power at the same time. This is usually accomplished by a double throw switch. I do, however, agree with Peggy. Use your boat's 12 volt existing system to run the boat while you are away and let your battery charger take care of the load. I think it is best for your battery to have a draw on it. IMHO, Mike D
Prevent Damage
WAECO Adler Barbour and Bob have the correct answers. The battery is needed in the Danfoss compressor circuit to buffer the compressor's electronic module and the style of battery charger is very important. The best charger is one that maintains float voltage on fully charged batteries when the refrigerator is running. My new manual on 12/24 volt refrigeration will be out in late July, If you want more inforemation on chargers for 12 volt refrigeration see CHARGERS on my web site.
WAECO Adler Barbour and Bob have the correct answers. The battery is needed in the Danfoss compressor circuit to buffer the compressor's electronic module and the style of battery charger is very important. The best charger is one that maintains float voltage on fully charged batteries when the refrigerator is running. My new manual on 12/24 volt refrigeration will be out in late July, If you want more inforemation on chargers for 12 volt refrigeration see CHARGERS on my web site.
Peggie I
strongly disagree with you about shore power. I am electrical engineer and in a perfect world your right. The problem is most off the boats are older and not properly maintenance, not to mention the marina's power grid. Better to stay unplugged!
strongly disagree with you about shore power. I am electrical engineer and in a perfect world your right. The problem is most off the boats are older and not properly maintenance, not to mention the marina's power grid. Better to stay unplugged!
So...maintain your boat!
Keeping up with boat maintenance doesn't require a perfect world...just an attention span and a little effort. Blaming shore power for your own poor maintenance or inability to pay attention to your own surroundings is like blaming McDonalds because your diet of Big Macs and supersize fries is making you fat. If your boat's electrical system is properly installed and maintained, shore power won't cause any problems. If another boat is leaking stray current, it won't affect yours if yours is properly grounded and zincs are in place. If there's a problem with the marina power supply OR another boat, report it to the management...if that doesn't work, every marina is a lessee on public waters...report the marina to the lessor--Corps of Engineers, County, whoever--call the fire chief...because electrical problems are a fire hazard, the fire department will be all over the marina to correct the problem or lose their lease. Boat age is irrelevant. Every boat on my dock including mine was at least 20 years old...we all stayed plugged into shore power all the time with no problems. More than half the boats at the club (220 slips) were at least 10 years old...THEY stayed plugged into shore power with no problems. If your boat's electrical system makes it unsafe to leave it plugged into shore power when you aren't there, it's not safe to connect shore power while you are aboard, especially overnight while you're asleep.
Keeping up with boat maintenance doesn't require a perfect world...just an attention span and a little effort. Blaming shore power for your own poor maintenance or inability to pay attention to your own surroundings is like blaming McDonalds because your diet of Big Macs and supersize fries is making you fat. If your boat's electrical system is properly installed and maintained, shore power won't cause any problems. If another boat is leaking stray current, it won't affect yours if yours is properly grounded and zincs are in place. If there's a problem with the marina power supply OR another boat, report it to the management...if that doesn't work, every marina is a lessee on public waters...report the marina to the lessor--Corps of Engineers, County, whoever--call the fire chief...because electrical problems are a fire hazard, the fire department will be all over the marina to correct the problem or lose their lease. Boat age is irrelevant. Every boat on my dock including mine was at least 20 years old...we all stayed plugged into shore power all the time with no problems. More than half the boats at the club (220 slips) were at least 10 years old...THEY stayed plugged into shore power with no problems. If your boat's electrical system makes it unsafe to leave it plugged into shore power when you aren't there, it's not safe to connect shore power while you are aboard, especially overnight while you're asleep.
Faulty Wiring "Happens"
Unfortunately, we don't live in a perfect world and most boats are not perfect. In the past two years there have been two MAJOR marina fires in Seattle - BOTH caused by faulty wiring on boats. The Seattle Yacht Club was the first of the two and received tremendous news coverage locally. The SYC is located just below the University of Washington campus and adjacent to a major freeway it was easily photographed by all the news media as boat house after boat house went up in flames. The SYC is THE "big money" club in the state with numerous multi-million dollar boats. Anybody who can afford the initiation fee and dues of the SYC you'd think would be able to maintain their boat. The second marina fire caused by a boat electrical problem was just down the street (and waterway) at Cadranell's Yacht Landing where there are numerous liveaboards. An account of this fire is provided in the attached link but also read the two news paper articles linked within. The problem I see with leaving your boat connected to shorepower and not being there is there is no way to see the flickering lights caused by a poor contact or smell the over heated insulation. And the unfortunate truth is that most boat owners don't take as good a care of their boat as they should - either for lack of time, money, ability, or knowledge, or even a combination of same. Personally, I feel my boat is in fairly good condition compared to the average of it's type and age, yet I have no shorepower touching it when I'm not there. A run to town for a few hours -okay - maybe a day before going on vacation to get the ice box down to temperature, but I have never left it on while I'm not there for several days. Shorepower at 30-amps can put out a lot of power and at 110V the connection can be pretty bad and it'll try to jump. The combination of these two, current x volts, is power and that is what causes fires. People who live aboard I would think would tend to be more "boat wise" and "listen" to what is going on - smell the odor of "something warm" or notice the "funny flicker" in the lights. The absentee owner (like me) doesn't get much of this oportunity. Different strokes for different folks.
Unfortunately, we don't live in a perfect world and most boats are not perfect. In the past two years there have been two MAJOR marina fires in Seattle - BOTH caused by faulty wiring on boats. The Seattle Yacht Club was the first of the two and received tremendous news coverage locally. The SYC is located just below the University of Washington campus and adjacent to a major freeway it was easily photographed by all the news media as boat house after boat house went up in flames. The SYC is THE "big money" club in the state with numerous multi-million dollar boats. Anybody who can afford the initiation fee and dues of the SYC you'd think would be able to maintain their boat. The second marina fire caused by a boat electrical problem was just down the street (and waterway) at Cadranell's Yacht Landing where there are numerous liveaboards. An account of this fire is provided in the attached link but also read the two news paper articles linked within. The problem I see with leaving your boat connected to shorepower and not being there is there is no way to see the flickering lights caused by a poor contact or smell the over heated insulation. And the unfortunate truth is that most boat owners don't take as good a care of their boat as they should - either for lack of time, money, ability, or knowledge, or even a combination of same. Personally, I feel my boat is in fairly good condition compared to the average of it's type and age, yet I have no shorepower touching it when I'm not there. A run to town for a few hours -okay - maybe a day before going on vacation to get the ice box down to temperature, but I have never left it on while I'm not there for several days. Shorepower at 30-amps can put out a lot of power and at 110V the connection can be pretty bad and it'll try to jump. The combination of these two, current x volts, is power and that is what causes fires. People who live aboard I would think would tend to be more "boat wise" and "listen" to what is going on - smell the odor of "something warm" or notice the "funny flicker" in the lights. The absentee owner (like me) doesn't get much of this oportunity. Different strokes for different folks.
Shorepower Connector Meltdown
Attached is a picture of a shorepower connector meltdown which could have lead to something worse if not caught in time. While I'm not a fire investigator, it was apparent that one of the conductors did not have a good contact with the lug on the connector. The heat also caused melting of the plastic connector. As part of proper boat maintenance, especially on new boats, it seems that checking the seating of set screws or clamping screws would be a good way to help prevent this type of situation. A slightly loose contact causes the energy to become concentrated which will result in excessive heat. To prevent corrosion of metal contacts use silicone dielectric compound (same as on electronic ignitions) and seal the openings with silicone to prevent salt air intrusion. Use only tinned marine-grade wire. Because of the salt air environment I also put silicone dielectric compound on my shorepower cord contacts. Proper maintenance of electrical items calls for perodic checking of connections - this is ESPECIALLY true on BRAND NEW BOATS! This is just like checking the lug nuts on your car wheel after the wheel has been reinstalled. Diesel engines cause constant vibrations and vibrations can cause screws to become loose.
Attached is a picture of a shorepower connector meltdown which could have lead to something worse if not caught in time. While I'm not a fire investigator, it was apparent that one of the conductors did not have a good contact with the lug on the connector. The heat also caused melting of the plastic connector. As part of proper boat maintenance, especially on new boats, it seems that checking the seating of set screws or clamping screws would be a good way to help prevent this type of situation. A slightly loose contact causes the energy to become concentrated which will result in excessive heat. To prevent corrosion of metal contacts use silicone dielectric compound (same as on electronic ignitions) and seal the openings with silicone to prevent salt air intrusion. Use only tinned marine-grade wire. Because of the salt air environment I also put silicone dielectric compound on my shorepower cord contacts. Proper maintenance of electrical items calls for perodic checking of connections - this is ESPECIALLY true on BRAND NEW BOATS! This is just like checking the lug nuts on your car wheel after the wheel has been reinstalled. Diesel engines cause constant vibrations and vibrations can cause screws to become loose.
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