I takes all my strength to get the main sheet out of the cam locks to adjust it... almost to the point that I deal with the main as little as possible, or have ran the line to a winch to adjust it. Once it's out of the cams I can pull it in...although it takes most of my strength and I'm not sure my wife could. Should I be needing the winches to pull this in? It's on a 40' hunter.
Sheeting in the Main on 40'
- Thread starter KandD
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KandD
Consider to add a 'cleat wedge' under you cam cleat ... removing one if its already in place. This is a tapered piece of plastic that when installed under a cam cleat will change the lead angle that the rope makes with the 'jaws'. Changing the lead angle will sometimes make 'releasing' the cam cleat easier.
You can also consider a 'trigger cleat' - a cam cleat that automatically opens when the rope is pulled 'down' in the jaws ... the rope pulled across the 'trigger' which instantly opens the loaded cam cleat.
The easiest and most simple correction is to run the mainsheet to a standard horn cleat ... and use a slip-hitch - just jerk the rope and the slip hitch unloads.
Consider to add a 'cleat wedge' under you cam cleat ... removing one if its already in place. This is a tapered piece of plastic that when installed under a cam cleat will change the lead angle that the rope makes with the 'jaws'. Changing the lead angle will sometimes make 'releasing' the cam cleat easier.
You can also consider a 'trigger cleat' - a cam cleat that automatically opens when the rope is pulled 'down' in the jaws ... the rope pulled across the 'trigger' which instantly opens the loaded cam cleat.
The easiest and most simple correction is to run the mainsheet to a standard horn cleat ... and use a slip-hitch - just jerk the rope and the slip hitch unloads.
If it is one of those cam cleats on a traveler block, just give it a kick with your foot. This lets you hold the line well back from the cleat that can suck your fingers in if you aren't careful.
If it's a stand alone cam cleat, replace it with a standard cleat as the others have suggested. I wish I could find a good place to put a regular cleat on my boat.
It's attached to the block, a 6:1. I haven't tried kicking it... that may be the easiest solution. I need to replace the bottom block at some point I think... it's old and the sieves don't turn all that well.
Other.
Change/use a 'quality' mainsheet line that has *minimal* stretch - a super hi-tech line. With stretchy line you have to apply more load to counteract the 'stored' stretch before a cam cleat will open. Could be your 'easiest' solution.
The hi-tech line can also have its 'core' removed from the section that runs from near the cleat all the way to the terminal block on your traveller or boom connection block - for less friction in the block system ... leaving only the 'fat' section that you touch with your hand. Removing the core will increase 'elongation under load'.
StaSet-X, XLS–Extra, "Warp-speed" or better. THIS website chandlery has a good 'rope calculator' for purchase guidance: http://shop.sailboatowners.com/rigging_builder/detail-builder.htm?fno=400&group=1417 Compare stretch vs. Ø vs. price.
Change/use a 'quality' mainsheet line that has *minimal* stretch - a super hi-tech line. With stretchy line you have to apply more load to counteract the 'stored' stretch before a cam cleat will open. Could be your 'easiest' solution.
The hi-tech line can also have its 'core' removed from the section that runs from near the cleat all the way to the terminal block on your traveller or boom connection block - for less friction in the block system ... leaving only the 'fat' section that you touch with your hand. Removing the core will increase 'elongation under load'.
StaSet-X, XLS–Extra, "Warp-speed" or better. THIS website chandlery has a good 'rope calculator' for purchase guidance: http://shop.sailboatowners.com/rigging_builder/detail-builder.htm?fno=400&group=1417 Compare stretch vs. Ø vs. price.
Cam cleats and clam cleats have no place on a mainsheet on bigger boats. [Added later: on single purchase mainsheets] Catalina keeps using clam cleats on even their new boats. We ripped ours out immediately and installed a sheetstopper as Tim recommends. We got the idea from a Beneteau bareboat from the BVIs. Keep the clutch open and keep the mainsheet on the winch. Simple and easy. Lubricating your blocks wouldn't hurt either.
You could also consider a double ended mainsheet - newer arrangement.
You could also consider a double ended mainsheet - newer arrangement.
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adjust the cleat position
Another option to explore would be to increase the purchase of your mainsheet tackle. There are a couple ways of doing this... go to the Harken site to see some examples.
The cleat postition can be adjusted on those types of blocks... inspect it carefull to find the adjusting mechanism. There is probably a bolt or screw with multiple holes alongside. This will change the angle between the cleat and block. It will also affect the operating angle. You should be able to snap the line up out of the cleat to release as well as pulling it straight to set.
Another option to explore would be to increase the purchase of your mainsheet tackle. There are a couple ways of doing this... go to the Harken site to see some examples.
Mainsheet power
If you do not want to use a winch for your main sheet, you can set it up as a two speed trim system. You might be able to modify your present setup by adding some new blocks. My two speed mainsheet setup is a 4:1 coarse trim and a 16:1 fine trim purchase. I experienced the same difficulty as you are having trying to release the mainsheet from the cam cleat on windy days with the original 4:1 purchase. The addition of the 16:1 fine trim makes it really easy to trim the main no matter how windy it is. I have also added a custom trigger cleat setup to the fiddle block so that if I needed to dump the main in hurry, it would release the 4:1 coarse trim very easily. Check the Harken site for additional ideas.
If you do not want to use a winch for your main sheet, you can set it up as a two speed trim system. You might be able to modify your present setup by adding some new blocks. My two speed mainsheet setup is a 4:1 coarse trim and a 16:1 fine trim purchase. I experienced the same difficulty as you are having trying to release the mainsheet from the cam cleat on windy days with the original 4:1 purchase. The addition of the 16:1 fine trim makes it really easy to trim the main no matter how windy it is. I have also added a custom trigger cleat setup to the fiddle block so that if I needed to dump the main in hurry, it would release the 4:1 coarse trim very easily. Check the Harken site for additional ideas.
Thanks for the replies! I went through the Harkin website and the 5:1 with a winch seems good. I think I'll keep my current block/tackle and run it back to a winch in the cockpit.
I have 4 lines that run the length of my boom internally, one is the out-haul, a topping lift, and the other two are knotted off. I imagine I can set one as part of my reefing system; but could I re-run the 4th line as part of the main sheet? Basically run it internally instead of using blocks along the base of the boom?
Also, as a side note, how often to adjust the traveler while sailing? I send it out when running with the wind but other then that I've just kept it centered.
I have 4 lines that run the length of my boom internally, one is the out-haul, a topping lift, and the other two are knotted off. I imagine I can set one as part of my reefing system; but could I re-run the 4th line as part of the main sheet? Basically run it internally instead of using blocks along the base of the boom?
Also, as a side note, how often to adjust the traveler while sailing? I send it out when running with the wind but other then that I've just kept it centered.
It sounds like the system is poorly designed. You could easily retrofit the boat with a dual-speed system like mentioned previously, where you could use a lower-leverage system for gross adjustments and then switch to a higher-leverage system for fine-tuning the trim. Harken has designs for 4:1/16:1 and 6:1/24:1 setups.
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