Sheet to Tiller Self Steering

[j.hunter9999]

Has anyone experimented with sheet to tiller self steering? What have you found out? Does it work? Does it work on some points of sail? Does anyone have a plan for how to set it up?

Thanks,
Jack
Bella - V2620

 

[pjacobs55]

It's a well discussed subject on the 'net.
One interesting link is

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Also, there is the classic book "Self-Steering for Sailing Craft" by John S. Letcher, that is probably out of print, but used ones are around.

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'

 

[adamtait2002]

I have sheet-to-tiller steering working on V1030 as my main autopilot.
It works on all points of sail, but is *much* better with the wind for'ard of the beam.
It's a v simple system and works far better than any helmsman, but there are some important points to note:

purchase good block
-- you want *no* friction in the system
purchase the best pre-stretched line
--you want all the *feedback* from the mainsheet to be translated directly to tiller control, not going in to stretching the cord.
use surgical tubing and not bungee cord
-- the part of the system that does flex needs to have a linear response to force: ie - pulling twice as hard gives twice the stretch.

it's cheap, easy, works fantastically (ie - for *hours* on end) and will offer the a fine education in sail trim

doesn't work at all (obviously) running under bare-poles though so the navik is still king

Let us know how you get on,
Adam

 

[adamtait2002]

I have sheet-to-tiller steering working on V1030 as my main autopilot.
It works on all points of sail, but is *much* better with the wind for'ard of the beam.
It's a v simple system and works far better than any helmsman, but there are some important points to note:

purchase good block
-- you want *no* friction in the system
purchase the best pre-stretched line
--you want all the *feedback* from the mainsheet to be translated directly to tiller control, not going in to stretching the cord.
use surgical tubing and not bungee cord
-- the part of the system that does flex needs to have a linear response to force: ie - pulling twice as hard gives twice the stretch.

it's cheap, easy, works fantastically (ie - for *hours* on end) and will offer the a fine education in sail trim

doesn't work at all (obviously) running under bare-poles though so the navik is still king

Let us know how you get on,
Adam

 

[vega1860]

When we sailed across the Pacific we found that Lealea would stay on course, sometimes for several days at a time, by simply lashing the tiller. We used a piece of surgical tubing from the tiller to a windward cleat and a short length of 1/4 inch line to a leeward stanchion as a sort of preventer. This arrangement worked fine except in very light air.

The procedure is to get the boat on course and the sails trimmed and balanced so there is just a slight weather helm. Then adjust the shock cord to balance the tension on the tiller. The light line to leeward is a preventer to keep the tiller from bouncing to windward and causing a jibe. It took me a few hours of experimenting the first time. It was fairly easy sailing on the jib. After we lost the headstay it took me a few days to get it to work with just the main, mainly because the wind was so inconsistent, but I eventually figured it out.

I must have some video somewhere. I'll try to find it and post it on our YouTube channel.

Malie ke kai,

Chuck Rose
Lealea, V1860

 

[pjacobs55]

Can you remind us how the headstay failed - where it failed?Nicholas H. Walsh P.A.
111 Commercial St.
Portland ME 04101
207/772-2191
Fax 207/774-3940

This email is from a law firm and may contain information
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From: vega1860
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 12:21 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: Sheet to Tiller Self Steering
When we sailed across the Pacific we found that Lealea would stay on course, sometimes for several days at a time, by simply lashing the tiller. We used a piece of surgical tubing from the tiller to a windward cleat and a short length of 1/4 inch line to a leeward stanchion as a sort of preventer. This arrangement worked fine except in very light air.

The procedure is to get the boat on course and the sails trimmed and balanced so there is just a slight weather helm. Then adjust the shock cord to balance the tension on the tiller. The light line to leeward is a preventer to keep the tiller from bouncing to windward and causing a jibe. It took me a few hours of experimenting the first time. It was fairly easy sailing on the jib. After we lost the headstay it took me a few days to get it to work with just the main, mainly because the wind was so inconsistent, but I eventually figured it out.

I must have some video somewhere. I'll try to find it and post it on our YouTube channel.

Malie ke kai,

Chuck Rose
Lealea, V1860

 

[groundhogyh]

Hi Chuck,
See, that's the fear I have these days. Everything seems to be imported and it is difficult to know where it's from. In the case of standing rigging, you really would like to know the pedigree. So you purchase from a known reputible supplier, who may have gotten some cheap junk either on purpose or maybe he got taken too....Oh well.roy

 

[o2n7dcolin]

Interesting. I had my lower shrouds replaced last season and after a few weeks I noticed some of the strands in the wire appeared to have a different shade of finish than others. A few months later stains of rust appeared on the turnbuckles, coming from the wire. My rigger checked and found his supplier had a defective batch of wire. Colin...

 

[TJBurkett]

I've noticed the same thing in my upper shrouds which were replaced just last year-discoleration and surface rust. The amazing thing is that the lowers, which I did not replace and I believe are the original standing rigging show not a bit of discoleration. My big concern is what to do about it, or wonder if it is significant. I too bought from what I thought was a reputable source (defender).

 

[pjacobs55]

I suspect the quality of wire originally used on boats from the 60's & 70's no longer exists. I'm extremely reluctant to scrap something just because it's 'old'.

I also believe there're other factors far more important to wire life, such as material quality, usage, environment, and maintenance.

I understand most failures, apart from defective wire, occur at the end terminals so careful inspection of these areas should be done on a regular basis.

There's an interesting article (lots of pictures) by a marine surveyor on rigging inspection at

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Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'

 

[vega1860]

I agree Peter. It seems that every time I replace an OEM item on Lealea I find that similar quality is simply no longer available at any price. Having said that, we must face the fact that our boats are getting a bit long in the tooth and some things are at or beyond their safe useful service life.

In the case of wire rope for standing rigging, it was explained to me that while the wire rope may be laid up in the USA or Europe, the SS strands are produced in mills in Asia and, indeed, the quality is just not there.

Brion Toss, well know Pacific Northwest rigger and author of several books on the subject, is known for his antipathy towards SS wire rope rigging. I have had several conversations with him on the subject. Brion has written in his books that he prefers galvanized mild steel to SS for standing rigging. More recently, he has developed a liking for Amsteel/Dyneema/HMPE and has rigged a couple of boats with it, including a Ranger 33 belonging to a good friend of ours in Friday Harbor. We had a chance to examine it closely at the last Rendezvous.

Of course HMPE cannot be used for the head stay so it is not the ideal solution but it is impervious to corrosion and may be a good choice for shrouds and backstay. It is rope, however after all and, as Dan of Port Townsend Rigging points out, it is subject to chafe, UV degradation and can be cut with a knife. OTOH, it is as strong, size for size, as SS wire rope and at a fraction of the weight.

For more about HMPE All about rope for mooring and rigging on a sailboat like the Albin Vega 27

Malie ke kai,

Chuck Rose,
Lealea, V1860

 

[vegatern]

When I replaced the forestay last year the rigger ( a respected shop) used galvanized wire. I have read (Nigel Calder I think) that galvanized wire is fine in temperate zones but stainless is preferred in the tropics.
Nice link Peter. I appreciate the links you provide, sort of like an internet librarian, and save most of them.
Craig Tern#1519