Recently we installed a dripless system and just completed a down river cruise and find that we are experiencing vibration at higher RPM's. It appears that our engine may be out of alignment to the shaft or my motor mounts may be going bad! It is 1990 30 ft. Hunter! Should we simply adjust the alignment or is there a way to test the motor mount movement? Diesel mechanic is too busy now and we want to cruise again....any suggestions or guidance? HELP DOES ANYONE HAVE A STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE TO FOLLOW...ANY GUIDANCE WOULD BE VERY HELPFUL
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If possible install a SHAFTSAVER
and you will be amazed at how much vibration and minor misalignment it will take care of. I just removed a dripless system and went back to the stuffing box with green dripless flax. I think if you spend any money on the shaft the best money is spent on a SHAFTSAVER.
and you will be amazed at how much vibration and minor misalignment it will take care of. I just removed a dripless system and went back to the stuffing box with green dripless flax. I think if you spend any money on the shaft the best money is spent on a SHAFTSAVER.
Used as Cutlass Bearing
The Shaft Saver bearing is attached to, and revolves with the shaft. The Shaft Saver bearing has an uninterrupted, lubricating film of water under all loads. Because of the lubricating film of water, shaft vibration is supposedly minimized because of the cushioning of the water film and soft rubber. Check their web site. Fair Winds, Clyde
The Shaft Saver bearing is attached to, and revolves with the shaft. The Shaft Saver bearing has an uninterrupted, lubricating film of water under all loads. Because of the lubricating film of water, shaft vibration is supposedly minimized because of the cushioning of the water film and soft rubber. Check their web site. Fair Winds, Clyde
another shaft saver
I have what the marina called a "shaft saver". It is a flexible coupler that connects the shaft to the transmission. It is made of a plastic/flexible material that absorbs vibration and shock if something hits the prop. Another benefit, and the main reason I had it installed, is that it electriclly isolates the shaft/prop from the engine/boat ground. I was having electrolosys problems, using a lot of shaft zincs, and the shaft saver solved my problem.
I have what the marina called a "shaft saver". It is a flexible coupler that connects the shaft to the transmission. It is made of a plastic/flexible material that absorbs vibration and shock if something hits the prop. Another benefit, and the main reason I had it installed, is that it electriclly isolates the shaft/prop from the engine/boat ground. I was having electrolosys problems, using a lot of shaft zincs, and the shaft saver solved my problem.
Good Results Here Too
It doesn't take much to get vibration in the prop/shaft system and I really like it to run smooth. On a whim I installed an R&D coupler from PYI and it reduced vibration significantly. Definitely took out all the bad vibration. http://www.pyiinc.com/?section=rd_marine&sn=1
It doesn't take much to get vibration in the prop/shaft system and I really like it to run smooth. On a whim I installed an R&D coupler from PYI and it reduced vibration significantly. Definitely took out all the bad vibration. http://www.pyiinc.com/?section=rd_marine&sn=1
To: John & Del
Regarding the installation of the R & D by PYI. Was this a "bolt on" or did you have a "professional" install? Bob
Regarding the installation of the R & D by PYI. Was this a "bolt on" or did you have a "professional" install? Bob
Easy DIY product
I was referring to the flexible coupling in my first post. If you have the simple stuffing box it is simple to just move the shaft back about 1 1/2" and install. If you have a dripless shaft, good luck without hauling boat. This is why I removed my dripless and went back to the stuffing box with the newer "dripless teflon" technology.
I was referring to the flexible coupling in my first post. If you have the simple stuffing box it is simple to just move the shaft back about 1 1/2" and install. If you have a dripless shaft, good luck without hauling boat. This is why I removed my dripless and went back to the stuffing box with the newer "dripless teflon" technology.
What about the extra lenght?
If you install a shaft saver, is there no problems with the shaft repositioned back the width of the shaftsaver? Does it really help with slight misalignment? Thanks.
If you install a shaft saver, is there no problems with the shaft repositioned back the width of the shaftsaver? Does it really help with slight misalignment? Thanks.
Installation a Piece of Cake
On our H-35 we have a Max-Prop, PSS Shaft Seal, and now the R&D coupling, all from PYI Inc. The R&D we installed is Part Number: 910-002 for the Yanmar (matches the bolt pattern of the flange) and the length is 1.28 inches. Because of this short distance I elected to not shorten the propeller shaft and just try it out. The plan was to shorten the shaft at the next haul out if we decided to keep it and we are. The prop shaft was greased and the PSS shaft seal doghnut was moved forward and new set screws installed, which, by the way, is highly recommended or required whenever the doghnut is moved. I keep replacement set screws in a plastic bag right near the shaft seal so I don't have to go looking. If you ever order something from PYI ask them for new set screws. Rather than pull the rudder I plan to remove the strut to pull the shaft, check the shaft and the coupling flange for trueness (ensure the flange face is perpendicular to the axis of the shaft), shorten the shaft, and reinstall. Plan to check the coupling on the back of the transmission, too, but I don't have a plan on how to do this yet. Will probably replace the cutlass bearing at the same time (1.00 ID 1.25 OD x 4.00 L) for good measure. [www.johnsoncutless.com] The fact that the flex coupling eliminated so much vibration may indicate that the cause of the vibration was not the shaft but something forward, like the couplings. It is noted that the vibration problems have been constant over time since the current stainless shaft was installed, somewhat better than the old bronze shaft but still not smooth enough. Ideally one should be able to go up to 3600 RPM and have it silky smooth if everything is true and the prop is properly balanced. For info, stainless shafts are about 30 percent stiffer than bronze which, in itself, will result in some reduction of vibration. Chose R&D because I was talking to the people (Kevin) at PYI on something else and one thing led to another. There are other flexible couplings on the market and, in fact, they distribute other brands but this R&D just happened to be the cheapest. Hope this helps.
On our H-35 we have a Max-Prop, PSS Shaft Seal, and now the R&D coupling, all from PYI Inc. The R&D we installed is Part Number: 910-002 for the Yanmar (matches the bolt pattern of the flange) and the length is 1.28 inches. Because of this short distance I elected to not shorten the propeller shaft and just try it out. The plan was to shorten the shaft at the next haul out if we decided to keep it and we are. The prop shaft was greased and the PSS shaft seal doghnut was moved forward and new set screws installed, which, by the way, is highly recommended or required whenever the doghnut is moved. I keep replacement set screws in a plastic bag right near the shaft seal so I don't have to go looking. If you ever order something from PYI ask them for new set screws. Rather than pull the rudder I plan to remove the strut to pull the shaft, check the shaft and the coupling flange for trueness (ensure the flange face is perpendicular to the axis of the shaft), shorten the shaft, and reinstall. Plan to check the coupling on the back of the transmission, too, but I don't have a plan on how to do this yet. Will probably replace the cutlass bearing at the same time (1.00 ID 1.25 OD x 4.00 L) for good measure. [www.johnsoncutless.com] The fact that the flex coupling eliminated so much vibration may indicate that the cause of the vibration was not the shaft but something forward, like the couplings. It is noted that the vibration problems have been constant over time since the current stainless shaft was installed, somewhat better than the old bronze shaft but still not smooth enough. Ideally one should be able to go up to 3600 RPM and have it silky smooth if everything is true and the prop is properly balanced. For info, stainless shafts are about 30 percent stiffer than bronze which, in itself, will result in some reduction of vibration. Chose R&D because I was talking to the people (Kevin) at PYI on something else and one thing led to another. There are other flexible couplings on the market and, in fact, they distribute other brands but this R&D just happened to be the cheapest. Hope this helps.
response to John
I had a marina do it but it would be an easy do it yourselfer. The shaft saver simply bolts between the transmision and the shaft, replacing the usual shaft coupler.
I had a marina do it but it would be an easy do it yourselfer. The shaft saver simply bolts between the transmision and the shaft, replacing the usual shaft coupler.
extra length
Seems like it depends on the geometry of a given boat. In my case it extended the shaft/prop about 3/4 inches, no big problem.
Seems like it depends on the geometry of a given boat. In my case it extended the shaft/prop about 3/4 inches, no big problem.
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