A wet rag wrapped around the gland after you back out the nut will slow the flow considerably. We found our shaft to be a very close fit to the gland. A big tie wrap makes it easy to hold the rag, bag or inner tube wrap in place. I would suggest that you have two modes of bilge pump operational. Check to see that they work before you start. Your electric pump and a manual with someone to operate it would be a approach. A 120volt sump pump with built in trash screen and integrated level switch is ideal.
We used the clay style packing that sells for $50-70. I would not recommend it, but it does work. The teflon packing works well and it's not expensive. You can have several sizes available as a hedge against an error in thickness imeasurement.
It is often quite difficult to remove the packing rings. The corkscrew type tool that they sell to pull out packing is worthless. I read that and bought one just in case. Don't do it. I was wrong. You need a rigid pick. I found an auto brake tool. It looks like a screw driver with the end bent at 90 degrees and is tapered to a sharp point. Needle nose pliers work if they are narrow enough to fit into the nut. A dental pick is likely too small except for finish cleaning. Have a good light that you do not have to hold. One of those head lights is great. Have an inspection mirror if your gland is difficult to access.
Don't forget to offset the rings so they don't line up to form a leak path. Lubricate the rings with packing lub as you install the rings. Don't overtighten the nut when you are done. Snug up the nut, run the packing in and then tighten the packing again. If the nut heats up when you run it, you have the nut too tight. You may have to snug and run it a time or two to get it right. I suggest doing this on a day when you are free to check on the drip rate the next day.
We use an adjustable aluminum sink wrench and a large open end pump wrench to adjust the packing gland lock nut. Some folks use a pair of pipe wrenches. Take care not to damage the nut.
Good Luck, Pat
We used the clay style packing that sells for $50-70. I would not recommend it, but it does work. The teflon packing works well and it's not expensive. You can have several sizes available as a hedge against an error in thickness imeasurement.
It is often quite difficult to remove the packing rings. The corkscrew type tool that they sell to pull out packing is worthless. I read that and bought one just in case. Don't do it. I was wrong. You need a rigid pick. I found an auto brake tool. It looks like a screw driver with the end bent at 90 degrees and is tapered to a sharp point. Needle nose pliers work if they are narrow enough to fit into the nut. A dental pick is likely too small except for finish cleaning. Have a good light that you do not have to hold. One of those head lights is great. Have an inspection mirror if your gland is difficult to access.
Don't forget to offset the rings so they don't line up to form a leak path. Lubricate the rings with packing lub as you install the rings. Don't overtighten the nut when you are done. Snug up the nut, run the packing in and then tighten the packing again. If the nut heats up when you run it, you have the nut too tight. You may have to snug and run it a time or two to get it right. I suggest doing this on a day when you are free to check on the drip rate the next day.
We use an adjustable aluminum sink wrench and a large open end pump wrench to adjust the packing gland lock nut. Some folks use a pair of pipe wrenches. Take care not to damage the nut.
Good Luck, Pat