I am currently hauled out for a bottom job, and other tasks that can't be done while in the water. I just finished replacing all four motormounts, the cutlass bearing and am attempting to install a PSS dripless shaft seal. My dilema is that the shaft is rubbing on one side of the stern tube. I can also see that the rubber in the new cutlass bearing is compressed at the forward side of the strut and at the bottom on the aft side. Apparently there is some misalignment. Has anyone had this same problem? I don't know if I can shim the strut, or elongate the holes in order to move it around. The strut is beveled so it fits tight into the recess under the hull. How is it possible to change its orientation? Any assistance would be appreciated. Allan
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Shaft Seal Suggestion
The shaft should be more or less centered in the stern tube and then the engine should be aligned according to the flange on the back of the transmission and the end of the propeller shaft. This will be approximate because after the boat has been in the water for a few days things will probably take a new set and have to be adjusted again. The alignment is within a 0.001 inch or so on the flange, getting the two flanges paralle.. Before the boat is put back into the water the PSS Shaft Seal should be aligned and adjusted for compression and should not have to be adjusted again for a few years, and then only for compression as the bellows will loose some of it's elasticity over time. This will become evident when water starts to regularly squirt out through the seal. At this time one will have to add a bit more compression to the bellows. A really good forum for PSS shaft seal question is under "drive train" on the home page. This section is hosted by PYI, the distributor for the PSS shaft seal. Ask them the same questions and if their answer is different I'd defer to them. The dripless shaft seal is a very nice addition to help keep the boat in top shape. It will help keep salt water away from the keel bolts, or if not, help find those other leaks. .
The shaft should be more or less centered in the stern tube and then the engine should be aligned according to the flange on the back of the transmission and the end of the propeller shaft. This will be approximate because after the boat has been in the water for a few days things will probably take a new set and have to be adjusted again. The alignment is within a 0.001 inch or so on the flange, getting the two flanges paralle.. Before the boat is put back into the water the PSS Shaft Seal should be aligned and adjusted for compression and should not have to be adjusted again for a few years, and then only for compression as the bellows will loose some of it's elasticity over time. This will become evident when water starts to regularly squirt out through the seal. At this time one will have to add a bit more compression to the bellows. A really good forum for PSS shaft seal question is under "drive train" on the home page. This section is hosted by PYI, the distributor for the PSS shaft seal. Ask them the same questions and if their answer is different I'd defer to them. The dripless shaft seal is a very nice addition to help keep the boat in top shape. It will help keep salt water away from the keel bolts, or if not, help find those other leaks. .
Align the engine.
Having replaced the motor mounts you will need to align the engine via the new motor mounts - otherwise you can expect the problems you describe. The alignment is critical and can be time consuming. If you haven't done it before, see Nigel Calder's excellent book "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" pp 310-311. The shaft should be supported at its two ends (strut/cutless bearing and the egnine flange). The shaft log/stuffing box should not be needed to add support - the stuffing box should simply ride on the shaft. Therefore the engine alignment is critical - it should be done in the water to allow the hull to assume its true shape. Good luck. Derek
Having replaced the motor mounts you will need to align the engine via the new motor mounts - otherwise you can expect the problems you describe. The alignment is critical and can be time consuming. If you haven't done it before, see Nigel Calder's excellent book "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" pp 310-311. The shaft should be supported at its two ends (strut/cutless bearing and the egnine flange). The shaft log/stuffing box should not be needed to add support - the stuffing box should simply ride on the shaft. Therefore the engine alignment is critical - it should be done in the water to allow the hull to assume its true shape. Good luck. Derek
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