Sewn on UV strip or Genoa Sock?

[Cool Beans]

I have a 155 on the furler right now which is a bit much for me to feel comfortable with in over 10kts wind. . .it's also a paint to tack. . .I'd like to put up the 135 the boat also came with, but it has a torn UV strip. . .I also have a 110 jib with no cover. . .

The 155 needs to be replaced, and the 135 at least repaired (if they even do repairs?). . .replacing the 155 UV strip = $600 or more :neutral:

ATN Genoa Sleeve = roughly $600 to my door, but I could use it for all 3 sails

I'm soliciting opinions either way. . .pro's/con's. . .anyone here use a sleeve? Longevity? Ease of use?

Many thanks!

 

[Warren Milberg]

I, too, have a furling 155 that is in near perfect condition. With my shoal draft boat, I often have to roll up some sail (it also has a foam luff) when the winds get over 12 kts or so or I'm overpowered. So I tend to use a 120 at the early part of the season when the winds are higher and then switch out to the 155 in mid-summer when the doldrums occur here. The 120 needs a new UV cover but the cost of same approaches the current value of the sail making that a poor choice for me. If I had an extra headsail halyard, I think I'd go with the genoa sleeve and be able to use it with any headsail I happened to own. What I don't know is whether the lifespan of the ATN sleeve is the same as that of a UV cover....?

 

[rardiH36]

I posted the below about a "Northsail" alternative last September when a similar query was made. If I had an older sail that for some reason didn't have a UV cover and its condition wouldn't support the $600 cost of a new cover, I really think I would go down to Home Depot, buy some pure white elastometric roofing paint and roll or paint on a UV strip. And let it dry for a few days before installing to ensure the sail won't stick together when wrapped around the furler before fully curing. For an older sail, the fabric is likely loosened up and the paint would I think soak into in and probably bond well. The "UV" strip will certainly be lighter than Sunbrella.

=====================================

I thought I read once on the Northsail website that a paint-on coating along the foot and leach was an offered option. I was unable to find it again, but came across the following from Sail-World.com. Might be worth a call to your local Northsail loft?:

" ... On a few larger sails we have recently developed a painted UV cover. This idea has been considered by Northsails Nevada and laboratory tests ran. This can be initially the best protect and still very good even if the paint flakes. With Northsails CapeTown we have worked on additives to an acrylic UV paint continuing the earlier work done within our group and we and our customers that have wanted to try this idea are delighted with the results. We continue to work on this project."

 

[Stu Jackson]

Both Warren and rardi make good points in terms of the ROI approach. Given that though, "What's the extra time worth to you?" would be my question. I spent from 1982 to 1998 with hanK on headsails on our C22 and C25. While I got quite good with flaking the jibs by heaving to from a port tack close haul and dropping the jibs on deck almost "perfectly folded", I sure don't miss doing that with roller furling/reefing with our ProFurl. I'm not sure I would "enjoy" having yet another task at the end of a day, to "install" the sock.

You might want to try a search, since IIRC there has been some qualitative earlier discussion of this very subject.

Good luck on your decision.

 

[dlandersson]

Okay, I have a 150 RF Genoa - and I usually use it in 110 configuration (back to the main mast). I also use a BWyacht sleeve with laces. No problem.

 

[finding41]

Get a used sewing machine! sailright.com sells the stuff to do it and has instructional videos on exactly what and how it is done.
Here is part 1; http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=jRJyRt6uQLg
It's easy!
Here is ware to find a sewing machine; http://norfolk.craigslist.org/search/?areaID=48&subAreaID=&query=sewing+machine&catAbb=sss

 

[Joe]

The most complaints about a sock come from boat neighbors......they're noisy when it's windy.

 

[Rick D]

Genny Sock

I have a 133 headsail which I ordered without a cover for better light air shape. It had a sacrificial UV strip where the typical acrylic cover is sewn on.

After three or four years, I had to replace it. It was about $450 about five years ago to replace. I figured a sock might be better. First, why let the sail soak up the UV's while the boat sits. Second, I do more cruising sails or racing than day sails so it wasn't that much of a hassle. Third, I wanted a spinnaker halyard anyway.

I ordered mine though this site and it was attractively priced. When it arrived, I hoisted it and all was well... until the wind kicked up to 20 knots and I thought the rig was going to come unglued. I took it off and explained what happened to my rigger. He told me to have a shoelace patterned series of loops made and sting shock cord in that pattern from top to bottom. That is what the J-Boat and one-design guys do. I did and problem solved. It does not have to be tight. I e-mailed the guys on this site and the maker probably has that on file.

Anyhow, this had worked very well for me. I would consider it a realistic option.

 

[Ray Bowles]

We had to have our 135 and our staysail UV covers replaced 10 years ago when the sail loft had a basic hourly rate of $50 per hour. He told us we could have him remove the stiching and UV covers or we could do it. We did it and it took 10 hours. We saved $500 and that really helped us at that time. A person might want to keep that in mind.
Ray

 

[Tejas]

We have a jib with a sacrificial UV cover and a zippered cover or sock. When the wind blows strongly, the sock tends to twist back and forth rubbing against the sail -- the UV cover in this case. The inside of the sock is sewn a slippery nappy material to mitigate abrading the the UV cover. We use one spinnaker halyard to haul up the sock, and the other wrapped around and tightened around the outside of the sock to further mitigate the twisting. Even with these measures some pin-sized holes have developed and the UV cover will need to be replaced soon.

Otherwise the sail in excellent condition, and I'd do both again.

 

[Stu Jackson]

... until the wind kicked up to 20 knots and I thought the rig was going to come unglued. I took it off and explained what happened to my rigger. He told me to have a shoelace patterned series of loops made and sting shock cord in that pattern from top to bottom. That is what the J-Boat and one-design guys do. I did and problem solved. It does not have to be tight. I e-mailed the guys on this site and the maker probably has that on file.

Anyhow, this had worked very well for me. I would consider it a realistic option.

Interesting. Perhaps, here's why:

http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-mast-pumping.html

Similar conditions, no?

 

[Cool Beans]

Ok, so I took the 135 and the 110 (or is it a 100?) out of the bags in my dads yard.

The 135 looks brand new as far as I can tell. The UV cover has a some faint discoloration where it looks like it was rolled up, but the cloth is crispy, white, and stain free. Even the thread looks new. There is zero wear at the clew. The PO bought them new but only mentioned flying the 155 since all he did was race. The tear isn't nearly as bad as I recalled. My dad suggested putting some sail tape on it and worry about it later. . .ahh, simple wisdom from the older generation

The 110 looks new as well. No wear anywhere, the cloth is crisp and white like drafting vellum.

For this season, I'm thinking just tape up the 135 and "roll" with it. The 155 looks like old bed sheets sewn together compared to these two

I didn't ask if I could save money by removing the old covers myself (never crossed my mind). If the cost savings was enough it would be worth it I think to have the loft put a cover on. There is something to be said for the value of my time. I hate putting the boat up as it is at the end of the day, and it seems to take forever. . .something else to mess around with might drive me over the edge

Speaking of, how long does the zipper last on these socks? All the older zippers on my boat need to be finagled every 2 inches to close. . .how often do you have to fool with the sock zipper?

The sailrite people make it look so easy to DIY! Never thought about doing it myself. Need more practice. I'm borrowing my grandmas older Singer to do some simple canvas work. patched my mainsail cover and made to winch covers. . .they look like crap, but they work

I dunno, for right now the quickest and easiest thing to do is tape the 135 and put it up. Bag the 155 and I guess I need to talk to the loft and see how much removing the old cover is worth. If it can get the replacement cost down to say $400 a piece, that's only a $200 difference compared to the sock and then I wouldn't have to worry about putting it up at the end of the day.

Many thanks all! I'll also try and find the previous genoa sock discussions.

 

[Rick D]

Wow, Stu...

Interesting. Perhaps, here's why:

http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-mast-pumping.html

Similar conditions, no?

Sure sounds right. Maybe that's what that cross-threaded shock cord really does, break up the vortex. When I first did this, I would take great pains to see that the shock cord was tensioned. now I don't, leaving it to work itself out, which it seems to do. So maybe it is the airflow it breaks up and not the clamping force that makes the difference.

 

[Windcatcher]

Jib Sock

I have a 34 Hunter. We purposely purchased the jib without a UV cover. We made a sock out of Sunbrella. Fortunately we have a spare jib halyard and the spinnaker halyard. Quarter-turn fasteners are spaced about 18 to 24 in. apart along the length of the sock (about 50 ft long). I tried snaps and they would come lose in the wind.

The spinnaker halyard is used to raise the sock ... best done with two peope, one on the winch and one closing the fasteners, although I do it myself when crew is not available. Close 10 or so fastener then go back to the winch and raise the sock a bit, then back to the sock and close more fastener and so on. To prevent the sock from flagging I wrap the unused jib halyard around the sock from top to bottom, and tie it off near the deck. It does take a bit of time raising and lowering the sock, but it does protect an expensive jib.

 

[Tejas]

The zipper on our sock is mostly covered, and what is covered has lasted seven years and counting. An exposed few inches at the top had to trimmed shorter and covered about two years ago. I anticipate replacing the zipper within a few years.

 

[rardiH36]

The tear isn't nearly as bad as I recalled. My dad suggested putting some sail tape on it and worry about it later. . .ahh, simple wisdom from the older generation ...
I dunno, for right now the quickest and easiest thing to do is tape the 135 and put it up. Bag the 155 and I guess

Just a suggestion, if you can get the torn area into the throat of grandma's old Singer, then after applying the self adhesive sail tape to both sides, then reinforce along the edges of the tape with a zig-zag stitch. This will make the repair permanent. Since you will only be going through three thin layers of sailcloth/tape, even a home machine will have enough oomph to punch through without problem. But it would be good to have a second pair of hands to help feed the sail through as you sew. I find that the tension of a home sewing machine foot on the grabber teeth underneath isn't strong enough to draw against the weight of the sail and the slippery fabric.