Servicing Seacocks

damauney · Oct 1, 2014

With a ball valve I use a long Quitip with Lanocote on the inside by pulling the hose and inside and outside when on the hard. Lubrication plus corrosion inhibitor.

Goodwinds
DaveM

centerline · Oct 1, 2014

I just replied to another post recommending this product (Dow corning 111) for use in lubricating a manual head. its a very good quality item that has several uses including lubricating ball valves. the product is an industry standard for many applications and i keep a good supply on my work trucks (and boats)...

if the boat is out of the water so you can get to the ball valves properly, the lubrication intervals will last so much longer.... it retains is consistency over a wide temperature range, so in the winter it wont cause the ball valves to stiffen up and make them hard to turn...

but if the boat is out of the water, you may want to take a solvent like wd40 and spray the valve.. work it open and closed several times and spray it again... this will dissolve any gummy deposits that sometimes cause the valves to work so hard...
then let it dry completely before applying the Dow 111....

Warren Milberg · Oct 1, 2014

Here is an item from BoatUS that may help:
http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/swmbs.asp

Also, I can tell you how I service/lube my seacocks from below when the boat is on the hard. Send me a note if interested.

centerline · Oct 1, 2014

Warren Milberg said:
Here is an item from BoatUS that may help:
http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/swmbs.asp

Also, I can tell you how I service/lube my seacocks from below when the boat is on the hard. Send me a note if interested.

the link has some good information included in it... but it wasnt until the last paragraph that I realized it was mainly talking about the tapered cone seacocks rather than the ball valve type that is more common these days...

in the last paragraph there was only a small mention of the ball valve and I can only assume this is due to the dependability and almost maintenance free nature of a marine type ball valve.

dont try taking your ball valves apart... it can be done to some of them, but damage is possible during disassembly and reassembley, and its almost always unnecessary to take it apart for normal servicing.... replacing it may be a better option as it gets kind of expensive when you find out it leaks after you return it to the water

John T1594 · Oct 2, 2014

I have the same boat, same year and my thru hull ball valves are also getting stiff. The only maintenance/lubrication I use is in the spring, before I launch the boat. I use a can of spray white lubricant and shoot some up through the thru hulls from outside the boat. I then go inside and work the ball valves a few times - not the most thorough treatment but beats tearing them apart. This does not work on the ball valves for the engine raw water intake nor the intake for the factory AC system, as Hunter put in 90 degree elbows before the valves. I also exercise the valves during sailing season to try to keep them from freezing up.

Calif. Ted · Oct 2, 2014

CD recently posted a video recommending Forespar Marelube, I'll attach the link to the video. The Marelube is available thru most chandlers, Jamestown carries it.
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/feature/194_187/lubricating-marine-ball-valves.cfm

centerline · Oct 2, 2014

Calif. Ted said:
CD recently posted a video recommending Forespar Marelube, I'll attach the link to the video. The Marelube is available thru most chandlers, Jamestown carries it.
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/feature/194_187/lubricating-marine-ball-valves.cfm

its just a silicone grease with PTFE added for better use with a plastic valve... the additive makes little difference with a metal ball valve.
whatever brand of heavy silicone grease/paste that is available and affordable is the type to use

thicker grease will stay on the valve longer than a light grease will.

Warren Milberg · Oct 2, 2014

Here is what I do with the boat on the hard to lube the stainless ball type seacocks without having to dissemble them:

rotate the seacock handles so that the ball inside is halfway open. Put a big dab of PTFE or similar grease on the tip of a narrow dowel. Insert the dowel into the seacock from the underside carefully going all the way thru the ball. (helps to practice this without the grease on the dowel just to get the feel of going all the way thru the ball). Now scrape dowel downward on the upper outside of the ball to get the grease on top of it. Go inside boat and rotate handles to spread the grease. Then close all seacocks completely. Put some more grease on the tip of the dowel and put it into the seacock thru-hull to grease the undersides of the ball. Rotate handles again. Works for me, hope it does for you, too.

Dan Johnson · Oct 7, 2014

I use a metal handle "acid brush" (used to apply flux before soldering copper pipe). Their handles are hollow and allow a tapered old artist's brush to be used to extend their length to apply lube from the outside when on the hard in the same manner that Warren M. suggests.

njlarry · Oct 8, 2014

Centerline, what vendors carry the 111?
Thank you all.

Maine Sail · Oct 8, 2014

The absolute best service for ball valves is to simply use them. This continually wipes/removes growth and keeps the ball surface smooth and clean. Once the surfaces get pitted or marine organisms adhere to them grease of any kind helps little... Use / cycle them often and they will remain operable for years and years and years.

centerline · Oct 8, 2014

njlarry said:
Centerline, what vendors carry the 111?
Thank you all.

Grainger supply carries it....
Some hydraulic hose/O-ring suppliers also carry it or an equivelant...

Probably get it or an equivelant at an electrical supply place such as Platt...

All it is, is heavy silicone grease in its purest form.
Heavier/thicker is better...

In the electrical trade its called dielectric grease or just silicone grease..
they use it in abundance for filling the splice joints in fiber optic cables...

Probably find it online cheaper..