I was wondering if anyone had done a simple rig for a self-tending jib, and if so, how it was implemented. I don't want to use a club foot boom or a permanent boom like the the Doyle(?).
Self-tending jib setup
- Thread starter jknappsax
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You can mount an athwartships jib traveller across the boat - from rail to rail; but, that will leave you with no way to adjust the fairlead angle (fore/aft) and that will necessitate using a 'clew iron' (clew plate with multiple attachments/holes). Only other way to adjust for jibsheet *fairlead angle* when using a traveller is to be able to raise or lower the sail along the forestay so that the clew is in the correct relative fairlead angle ... an absolute real PITA. A sailor knowledgeable in sail trim will be constantly adjusting that jibsheet fairlead angle.
A 'clew iron' is heavy and will have the impact on a human body similar to a medieval mace if the sail flogs about.
A clubfoot or HoytBoom is really the best way to do this. A clubfoot needs to also be restrained with a vang thus further complicating the matter. The advantage of the HoytBoom is that you dont have to adjust the 'fairlead angle' and have no need to vang it ..... it really takes all the hassle out of 'self-tacking' jibs and remains the 'easiest and most simplest' to rig a self tacking foresail.
A 'clew iron' is heavy and will have the impact on a human body similar to a medieval mace if the sail flogs about.
A clubfoot or HoytBoom is really the best way to do this. A clubfoot needs to also be restrained with a vang thus further complicating the matter. The advantage of the HoytBoom is that you dont have to adjust the 'fairlead angle' and have no need to vang it ..... it really takes all the hassle out of 'self-tacking' jibs and remains the 'easiest and most simplest' to rig a self tacking foresail.
Another option is the Camber Spar. It is a spar that is fitted into your sail so the only deck hardware is a block w/becket and swivel stand-up deck plate.
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=21
Check out the Harken page. They have some other methods to rig a self tender too.
http://www.harken.com/rigtips/SelfTackJibsStaysails.php
I had a camber spar it was a great setup for our location. Only had s few times that we would have flown a larger sail. The ease of sailing with one of these setups makes sailing a "breeze".
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=21
Check out the Harken page. They have some other methods to rig a self tender too.
http://www.harken.com/rigtips/SelfTackJibsStaysails.php
I had a camber spar it was a great setup for our location. Only had s few times that we would have flown a larger sail. The ease of sailing with one of these setups makes sailing a "breeze".
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Add a bowsprit?
I think the Hoyt jib boom would be ideal. The problem is rigging a plank style bow sprit to 1) move the forestay attachment far enough forward to allow the existing jib to be self tending and 2) allow a mounting surface for the jib boom. Hoyt recommends mounting the boom aft of the forestay a distance of 10% of J. The built in anchor locker on foredeck precludes mounting it there.
Anybody out there add a sprit to their Hunter?
I think the Hoyt jib boom would be ideal. The problem is rigging a plank style bow sprit to 1) move the forestay attachment far enough forward to allow the existing jib to be self tending and 2) allow a mounting surface for the jib boom. Hoyt recommends mounting the boom aft of the forestay a distance of 10% of J. The built in anchor locker on foredeck precludes mounting it there.
Anybody out there add a sprit to their Hunter?
The reason for the Hoyt boom being mounted at 10%J is so that the sail 'somewhat automatically' powers-up (the draft increases .. just like easing an outhaul) the further the jib/genoa clew moves away from the boats center line; this is more important for proper 'shaping' of a staysail (interaction of staysl with main & jib) but is not all that necessary for a jib/genoa (sloop rig configuration).
First of all the jib has to be non-overlapping. This is what we did one day we had a bit more wind than we needed.
We reefed the main and rolled up the roller reefing jib to about 90% of the "J". We bent on a short piece of line to the jib clew and made it fast to the mast such that the jib foot was straight and the leach had about an 18 inch twist off. The regular jib sheets were slack. The normal jib hoist is 40 feet.
The boat did not slow down and sailed unusually high. The trick is to find the position on the mast which gives the right amount of leach twist. Then it's just sit back and steer! What a relief!
George
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