Selecting a trailer

rockp2 · Feb 2, 2009

E-Bay

There are a lot of sailboats on ebay at any given time. Pretty much across the spectrum. I would suggest an inspection is done if you do not want to take any risk. However, I find that you can get like boats (type and condition) at a much cheaper price than boater sites. Below is a link:

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/items/sailboat_W0QQ_trksidZm38Q2el1313

RanAweigh · Feb 2, 2009

Mitch, If these boats you are looking at are center board type look for a trailer designed to handle the weight of the boat you are considering. The rollers or bunk is (usually) adjustable which can be "fitted" to support this boat's hull. For this type of boat it is just a matter of fitting the trailer to support the hull. No different that a power driven trailer boat

A keel boat is a different matter. What you need depends pretty much of what you get.

Jansen · Feb 2, 2009

We just converted a trailer that was used for a 19' ski boat for use for a Catalina 22. It had 2 axles and was very strudy. We had to raise the bunks about a foot or so. It doesn't have any brakes. We may also have to put an adjustable tongue to get it further into the water. I know of an Oday 23 for sale with a trailer (marginal single axle, but works) for a very reasonable price. Email me off site for info.

Jim Kolstoe · Feb 2, 2009

Mitchman, to go to what I think was your question, sailboat trailers, like powerboat trailers, are built to support the hull. Since sailboats tend to have things protruding down below the hull, keels, this means that the hull must be supported high enough for the keel to also fit on the trailer. Consequently, most sailboat trailers support the hull anywhere from a couple of feet off the ground to nearly high enough to walk under. They cannot go any lower without dragging the keel on the ground or at least through the trailer frame. Therefore the obvious difference between most sailboat trailers and powerboat trailers is that the bunks/pads/rollers supporting the hull are taller. Additionally, some but by no means all, sailboat trailers have some form of keel guide to help guide the boat into the correct position over a trailer that may be several feet under water when retreiving the boat. Finally, many sailboat trailers (and possibly some powerboats, I can't ignore the possibility) have tongue extentions.
Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo

Joe11688 · Feb 4, 2009

mitchman said:
Hello,

As I posted in a previous thread, I am looking for a trailer sailor in the 20-23ft class. I have found several boats for a good price but without trailers and new trailers cost as much or more than the boat itself! I have a lot of powerboat experience and know that sailboat trailers are different than powerboat trailers, but what specifically defines a sailboat trailer? What modifications are needed to be done and are there certain types of trailers that are easier to modify for sailboats that others? Also, is there a good source to find used trailers (besides craigslist)?

Thanks,
Mitch

Mitch,
You need to keep in mind that certain sailboats have hulls that are not suitable for roller trailers. The older Catalina 22's need to be trailered on flat bunk trailers, in which the trailer needs to be swamped,in order get the boat to float off and on to the trailer. Most of the O'Days have strong hulls that can take the weight of the boat sitting on its keel and can be trailered with a complete roller trailer. This makes a huge difference if you plan on trailering this boat a lot. Even though some of the keel centerboard boats sit high on a roller trailer, launching them is no different than launching a powerboat in the same depth of water at the ramp. I'm not saying that flat bunk trailers are not good. I have one for my boat and I like it, but if I were to ever go back to trailering my 222, I'd buy a roller trailer for my boat. The flat bunk trailers are adequate for trailer sailing smaller lighter boats. The disadvantages of the flat bunk trailers are; You need to swamp the trailer to float it back on and the difference between the pitch of the ramp and the boat floating on to the trailer almost always result in the boat's bow being short a couple of inches from the trailer's bow roller, as soon as the trailer is pulled up the ramp. A smaller lighter sailboat can be winched up on the trailer after you get it out of the water, to correct this problem. Not so, with a heavier 22 foot sailboat of 2200 LBS.
Joe

themacway · Feb 5, 2009

mitch, some very good information from everybody here. we have a little hunter 18.5 that's around 1,600#, with a fixed, winged keel, so the boat really just sits on the keel with the bunks holding the sides of the hull a bit. the original owner welded the adjustable bunk risers in place, which i thought was insane until we launched her the first time. we had to 'float' it off, just like everybody here says (even with the 12' tongue extender), so the adjustability wasn't that important at all - until we decided to paint the bottom. that's where being able to move the bunks off the hull really make a huge difference, if you're like us and do everything yourself. we're now having to cut the risers off and make the bunks adjustable again, just to paint the bottom. big hassle. my guess is that the little tighteners that held the risers were slipping and the elderly owner didn't have enough oomph to get them good and tight. he should have put better tighteners on it, but instead, he just took the easy way out. that's okay, since we got the boat for peanuts and it's worth many times more than that as it sits, so i'm not really complaining, just curious why some folks do what they do instead of fully thinking things through. that's where you are now - thinking things through before you do anything. good for you, and so it's probably good for one of us later on down the road. jack b

Joe11688 · Feb 6, 2009

Jack,
One of my friends came up with the idea of cutting some short pieces of 2x4's to fit against the bunk adjuster and fit snuggly between the top of the trailer's cross members, and the bottom of the bunk board. He used small bolts through each adjuster to keep them in place. With this idea, you never have to worry about the bunks slipping down. Also, if the adjusters hang down a few inches below the cross member, a regular car jack or small hydraulic jack can always be used under the adjuster to raise or lower the bunks.

themacway · Feb 6, 2009

ah! that makes sense. thanks joe! pretty simple fix to an odd problem.

jack b

g_clore · Feb 11, 2009

sail boat trailer

mitchman said:
Hello,

As I posted in a previous thread, I am looking for a trailer sailor in the 20-23ft class. I have found several boats for a good price but without trailers and new trailers cost as much or more than the boat itself! I have a lot of powerboat experience and know that sailboat trailers are different than powerboat trailers, but what specifically defines a sailboat trailer? What modifications are needed to be done and are there certain types of trailers that are easier to modify for sailboats that others? Also, is there a good source to find used trailers (besides craigslist)?

Thanks,
Mitch

I have built a lot of trailers out of regular boat trailer.The older trailers have better galvanize.4 are 5 years ago the EPA took all the nickle out of the galvanize and zinc.these new trailers do not hold up in the salt water.The best older trailers to use are the Dilly trailers.The company stopped making these trailer 20 years ago.I buy the trailers every time I find one.I mad my axles 4" longer so that I can put truck tires and wheels on the trailer.the trailer companies make the axles shorter so you cant us the wheel.They want you to buy the expensive trailer tires.The trailer tires do not have as much UV material in them and they do not last as long as truck tires.They crack and loss the tread faster.I now have two of these trailers now.

g_clore · Feb 11, 2009

Jansen said:
We just converted a trailer that was used for a 19' ski boat for use for a Catalina 22. It had 2 axles and was very strudy. We had to raise the bunks about a foot or so. It doesn't have any brakes. We may also have to put an adjustable tongue to get it further into the water. I know of an Oday 23 for sale with a trailer (marginal single axle, but works) for a very reasonable price. Email me off site for info.

I have a nice trialer that will work.My email is g_clore@yahoo.com

themacway · Feb 13, 2009

as g_clore said, the dilly trailers are hard to beat. they are durable, relatively cheap and easy to modify. we have them on several boats down at the ranch, and one of those boats is a brand spankin' new $35k bass boat. the other is an irreplaceable, 1950's era, just restored (by us) lyman inboard bay boat. we didn't spare any expense on the boats, yet we picked those old dilly trailers to use under them. well, actually, the old lyman had one under it when we picked it up in ohio two years ago, so we just kept it and modified it, but you get the picture. we really like them. i also have one under my hunter. they make great trailers. there are some others too, chaparrals and roadrunners, but we really like the dilly brand. cryin' shame they don't make em like that any more.
pay close attention (with you being a powerboat guy, you'll understand this MUCH quicker than we did) to what TRINKKA says about the roller issue and winching. we do love our little h18.5 (fixed) wing keeler, which we have to 'float' on the trailer, but you're definitely way ahead in your thought processes than we were (ours was a take it or leave it proposition) by looking at your needs, hence your tending to look at the slightly larger 20-22' range, vs. the too small or too large (and much heavier) 24-26 footers. yep, you're definitely asking good questions and heading in the right direction. i think you're going to be just fine.
jack b

Doug J · Feb 20, 2009

I restored/modified a 20 year old Pacific power boat trailer to fit my Macgregor 26S, I'm very happy with it. I'm also happy to hear the older ones had better galvanizing.

I was amazed that the trailer even though it has been used in salt water had no rust on the main structural pieces. Only the brackets, bolts, drum brakes, etc. were rusted. I completely took it appart gave it a fresh cold galvanizing finish, and replaced all parts with galvanized or stainless steel. I also installed stainless steel disc brakes, and LED lights. Should last a long time!

Selecting a trailer

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