Selden Furlex 100S parts
- Thread starter Ken13559
- Start date
Before you send a lot of time or money on replacing this part, See if you can actually remove it. Inside the drum is a Sta-lock or Norseman fitting for the forestay. It appears to be pressed into the drum. Last fall I wanted to replace my forestay and was unable to get the drum off the forestay. When I talked to a rigger, he said it can be removed, but it often took him several hours to remove it.
My advice is to replace the forestay and the furler. Mine is still in the basement somewhere, I'd offer it to you but the shipping costs would be a waste of good money. If you want, I can take a few photos of it tomorrow and post them here.
My advice is to replace the forestay and the furler. Mine is still in the basement somewhere, I'd offer it to you but the shipping costs would be a waste of good money. If you want, I can take a few photos of it tomorrow and post them here.
Thanks for the idea. Let me think about it. Btw, my Tack Ring was seized. Usually it could turn about 270deg. Not sure if that's part of the problem.
Think I can order the Tack Ring online from Finland, question is how to go about lowering the forestay with mast up. Plus the challenge of separating the Sta-loc from Furler assembly.
Got to think this through.
Ken Y
For lowering the forestay with mast up use the spinnaker line (forgot the name of it) or the jib line or both.
The mast will stay in colum if you loosen other stays. use haylard atleast 2 to strong points at bow then you can disconnect head stay and take drum apart
See http://www.seldenmast.com/files/595-103-E.pdf
To replace the tack ring, you will need to disassemble and rebuild the lower bearing. That includes replacing two sets of ball bearings,2 inner BB rings/races, 2 outer BB ring/races, at the least. At a minimum, you'd want to replace the bearings, and probably the inner and out bearing races, along with the Tackring #539-355 . If you are an amateur mechanic or machinist, you could do the work yourself.
A less labor intensive alternative would be to replace the whole lower bearing assembly, including the lower hub, bearings, and tack swivel. You can reuse the furling line drum flanges, cover and line guide.
Removing the lower bearing assembly requires you to remove the Stalock fitting (or adjustable rigging screw) at the bottom of the forestay, I believe. I recommend that you consider replacing the forestay at the same time.
You can order a replacement lower assembly and a new DIY forestay through a knowledgeable USA Furlex distributor
Judy B
To replace the tack ring, you will need to disassemble and rebuild the lower bearing. That includes replacing two sets of ball bearings,2 inner BB rings/races, 2 outer BB ring/races, at the least. At a minimum, you'd want to replace the bearings, and probably the inner and out bearing races, along with the Tackring #539-355 . If you are an amateur mechanic or machinist, you could do the work yourself.
A less labor intensive alternative would be to replace the whole lower bearing assembly, including the lower hub, bearings, and tack swivel. You can reuse the furling line drum flanges, cover and line guide.
Removing the lower bearing assembly requires you to remove the Stalock fitting (or adjustable rigging screw) at the bottom of the forestay, I believe. I recommend that you consider replacing the forestay at the same time.
You can order a replacement lower assembly and a new DIY forestay through a knowledgeable USA Furlex distributor
Judy B
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After 2_1/2 years, the quick fix Tack Ring still holds. One mistake I did was to use a smallish line (2mm) which cuts through the plastic Tack Ring part way. Should have used a large sized cord like 4-6 mm. I'll try change it.