Seeking maintenance advice with a few issues on a Hunter 25-2

[Kaysirin]

Greetings friends!

I am seeking advice on a few issues with a 2007 Hunter 25 I recently purchased. I have the boat on the trailer while preparing for barrier coat and bottom paint, and fixing a dragged rudder and bow eye in bad shape. Previous owner dragged the rudder a few times, along with never putting a block behind the backing plate of the bow eye, unfortunately it obviously had been tied to the dock from the bow eye in bad weather, the U-bolt and backing plate wedged towards starboard, bending the U-bolt and cracked the fiberglass and blew out the gelcoat. I'm busy repairing the fiberglass and will re drill the holes and replace the U-bolt. I have some questions which I'm seeking advice for, on a few other issues I feel need addressing before this lake boat meets the ocean for the first time.

There is a 4" strip of fiberglass in poor shape under the rub rail (impact related?), not sure if it's leaking water through it yet, but I don't want salt water to soak in and worsen it. I'm dying to get out sailing, but this looks like its spongy and could get worse. I would have to pull the rub rail off to fix it properly, I'm wondering if I could just seal it with silicone for now, and fix it properly during the winter while in indoor storage.


Next one is with the anchor roller, shouldn't there be a back plate fastened with washers and nuts? Looks too tight of spacing for 3, but could fit 2 for sure.


And finally (for now ), one of the bolts on the pulpit was inadequately supported and the washer and nut pulled right through one side of the fiberglass, seems like it should have been a longer bolt with a block or plate supporting the nut and a larger washer? Not sure if this is shoddy work from the factory? Has anyone else had this issue and properly fixed it? Perhaps another job for winter storage? It's been sealed from the inside it seems, but if left as is for now, should certainly have sealant on the exterior as well.



Thanks in advance for anyone who spends the time to read and reply. I've worked on lots of boats, but this is the first one I've ever owned, I bought it a few weekends ago and am super excited to get it in the water! Thanks again for your time!

 

[Davidasailor26]

I'm wondering if I could just seal it with silicone for now, and fix it properly during the winter while in indoor storage.
View attachment 206639

If you use silicone you’ll be regretting that decision when you go back for the complete fix. Silicone will be hard to remove completely, and nothing will stick to the residue. It’s a little hard to tell from the pictures, but I’d consider some thickened epoxy to fill the gaps. That would probably be easy enough and plenty strong.

Next one is with the anchor roller, shouldn't there be a back plate fastened with washers and nuts? Looks too tight of spacing for 3, but could fit 2 for sure.
View attachment 206640

The only reason to not have nuts there is if there’s a plate embedded in the fiberglass that the bolts are threaded into. But I’d be surprised if that were the case here. It looks like one backing plate to span across all three bolts, then nuts on the bottom might work best there.

 

[jssailem]

one of the bolts on the pulpit was inadequately supported and the washer and nut pulled right through

First let me congratulate you on your new to you boat.

No idea if it was original manufacturer or previous owner, but the results are classic poorly thought out install of a system on a fiberglass boat using a bolt and washer. The way stanchions or pulpits are grabbed and forces applied, the bolt and washer are not adequate to the task. Now that it has damaged the fiberglass you really need the time to properly repair the glass structure and install proper backing plate support in the area. If not the current structure will continue to break up and allow water to intrude into the core.

I sympathize with your desire to get out on the water. I agree with David’s recommendation not to fill the area with silicone based caulk. It will give you pain when trying to fix it properly and the temporary fix will leak. You could use a thickened epoxy applied to the area. Later you just grind it out to do the repair over the winter. The issue is the hole along the rail looks to have loose debris in it. Not sure anything is solid to hold the caulking or even butyl stuffed into the cracks. If water continues to splash onto that area will you have more damage occur say to the core or inside the hull. At some point you just have to bite the bullet and do the fix before greater damage can occur.

I would want an adequate backing plate or plates for the anchor roller. Sucking up chain and a 35lb (16kg) anchor on my bow usually is not a gentle evolution. Having a stout well supported structural system reduces the worry of the boat at anchor during a BC Williwaw blowing down an inlet.

 

[dlochner]

There is a 4" strip of fiberglass in poor shape under the rub rail (impact related?), not sure if it's leaking water through it yet, but I don't want salt water to soak in and worsen it. I'm dying to get out sailing, but this looks like its spongy and could get worse. I would have to pull the rub rail off to fix it properly, I'm wondering if I could just seal it with silicone for now, and fix it properly during the winter while in indoor storage.

Do not use silicone. Silicone and 5200 have very limited and rare uses on a boat.

It is hard to tell from the photo how much damage was done at the rail. Removing a rub rail is easy, reinstalling can be a bear. Have you tried sounding the area by tapping with a plastic hammer or screwdriver handle? It is a little difficult to tell how large an area is damaged. If it is small, say under 3 inches I'd be inclined to simply fill it with a quick setting polyester resin, like Evercoat Formula 27. Sand it smooth and cover with gelcoat.

 

[Kaysirin]

If you use silicone you’ll be regretting that decision when you go back for the complete fix. Silicone will be hard to remove completely, and nothing will stick to the residue. It’s a little hard to tell from the pictures, but I’d consider some thickened epoxy to fill the gaps. That would probably be easy enough and plenty strong.

The only reason to not have nuts there is if there’s a plate embedded in the fiberglass that the bolts are threaded into. But I’d be surprised if that were the case here. It looks like one backing plate to span across all three bolts, then nuts on the bottom might work best there.

First let me congratulate you on your new to you boat.

No idea if it was original manufacturer or previous owner, but the results are classic poorly thought out install of a system on a fiberglass boat using a bolt and washer. The way stanchions or pulpits are grabbed and forces applied, the bolt and washer are not adequate to the task. Now that it has damaged the fiberglass you really need the time to properly repair the glass structure and install proper backing plate support in the area. If not the current structure will continue to break up and allow water to intrude into the core.

I sympathize with your desire to get out on the water. I agree with David’s recommendation not to fill the area with silicone based caulk. It will give you pain when trying to fix it properly and the temporary fix will leak. You could use a thickened epoxy applied to the area. Later you just grind it out to do the repair over the winter. The issue is the hole along the rail looks to have loose debris in it. Not sure anything is solid to hold the caulking or even butyl stuffed into the cracks. If water continues to splash onto that area will you have more damage occur say to the core or inside the hull. At some point you just have to bite the bullet and do the fix before greater damage can occur.

I would want an adequate backing plate or plates for the anchor roller. Sucking up chain and a 35lb (16kg) anchor on my bow usually is not a gentle evolution. Having a stout well supported structural system reduces the worry of the boat at anchor during a BC Williwaw blowing down an inlet.

Do not use silicone. Silicone and 5200 have very limited and rare uses on a boat.

It is hard to tell from the photo how much damage was done at the rail. Removing a rub rail is easy, reinstalling can be a bear. Have you tried sounding the area by tapping with a plastic hammer or screwdriver handle? It is a little difficult to tell how large an area is damaged. If it is small, say under 3 inches I'd be inclined to simply fill it with a quick setting polyester resin, like Evercoat Formula 27. Sand it smooth and cover with gelcoat.

Rub Rail: Will tap to check for hollowness and see how far the sponginess may have spread, if it hasn't spread far, perhaps thickened epoxy will be the go for now. However, it is close to the stern so perhaps I can partially remove the rub rail to get at and repair it properly. Silicone/5200 a big nope, thanks for the warning guys!

Roller: It does look like there is a plate bulging under the fiberglass, I need to look again from above, it may just be the channel for the roller, I will try to remove it and look from above to see what its fastened to, if anything? If nothing, I'll fab a plate for it and squeeze in a couple washers and nuts, it really doesn't look like I can fit them on all 3 bolts, since 2 of them are so close together.

Pulpit: I removed the nut yesterday, the washer is partially jammed into the hole but was loose enough to move and should be able to be removed, but the bolt was jammed in tight with whatever the previous owner used to stop the leaks. If I manage to get it out, after repairing the the initial damaged fiberglass and finding a longer bolt, should I glass in a block and plate, or have it sit outside, I guess if not glassed in, at least remove the concave channel that runs under the rub rail, from that area of the bow, so a block and plate can sit flat under the new longer bolt?


Cheers again guys and thank You all for your replies Davidasailor26, jssailem and dlochner!

 

[dlochner]

Rub Rail: Will tap to check for hollowness and see how far the sponginess may have spread, if it hasn't spread far, perhaps thickened epoxy will be the go for now. However, it is close to the stern so perhaps I can partially remove the rub rail to get at and repair it properly. Silicone/5200 a big nope, thanks for the warning guys!

Roller: It does look like there is a plate bulging under the fiberglass, I need to look again from above, it may just be the channel for the roller, I will try to remove it and look from above to see what its fastened to, if anything? If nothing, I'll fab a plate for it and squeeze in a couple washers and nuts, it really doesn't look like I can fit them on all 3 bolts, since 2 of them are so close together.

Pulpit: I removed the nut yesterday, the washer is partially jammed into the hole but was loose enough to move and should be able to be removed, but the bolt was jammed in tight with whatever the previous owner used to stop the leaks. If I manage to get it out, after repairing the the initial damaged fiberglass and finding a longer bolt, should I glass in a block and plate, or have it sit outside, I guess if not glassed in, at least remove the concave channel that runs under the rub rail, from that area of the bow, so a block and plate can sit flat under the new longer bolt?

Unless you plan to paint or gelcoat the repair on the rail, don't use epoxy. Exposure to UV will degrade the epoxy. Polyester resins are not as sensitive to UV.

There is no need to glass in a backing plate. Some boat manufacturers embed a plated in the lay up to make it easier to install fittings, drill the hole, tap it and screw the fitting down. Very handy in places without easy access to the underside of the deck.