Seeking guidence restoring My 1979 o'day 30

[Johnny Sails]

Hi guys, my name is Jonathan and I am gratefull to have found this forum. I purchased an o'day 30 and I am trying to learn fast as I restore this boat and get it ready for sailing. I have very little sailing experience so I am hoping that I can come here to ask questions about things that I may need guidance on.

My first challenges are trying to understand the plumbing and how to manage these through hulls in my boat. The sink is connected directly to a through hull beneath it. how the water is not coming up through the sink? Is this because the sink is located above the water line? There is a circular nut on one side of this thru hull and it's orientation leads me to believe that the valve is open. The other two through hulls are located on the port side and they seem to be connected to a large valve that is connected to a hose that is capped off. The thru hulls have these long metal handles on them and by their orientation it seems that these valves are open.

I have a few questions.

1. Should I close these thru hull valves? I tried to turn it my hand but it would not budge. I'm sort of afraid to get a pipe to get enough leverage on it to close these thru hull valves. Why are they open if they do not lead anywhere inside the boat?

2. The toilet doesn't seem to be connected to any thru hulls on the boat but is directed to a holding tank on the port side. The bladder is full and must be removed and replaced. It has a vent line and a line for emptying the tank.

3. Why is the sink directly connected to a thru hull and how does that work.

I opologise if I am not using the correct terminology and I apriecate all the help I can get.

There is also a transducer next to these open thru hulls.

 

[Johnny Sails]

 

[Johnny Sails]

I guess I will plug the seacocks from the outside before I get a pipe to close these through hulls.

 

[Timm R Oday25]

Good morning and welcome . My thought from here is that the seacocks "used" to be for dumping the contents of the toilet into the water .
As a general guideline ,it is advised that all seacocks be closed whenever you aren't onboard . It's quite likely the ones on your boat haven't
been moved in quite some time .
The sinks on our ODay were plumbed the exact same way . Yes ,as long as the hose is securely attached to the through hull the water coming
in will stop when it hits the water line . Your hose from the sink looks like it could stand to be replaced . I don't like seeing any of my hoses with kinks in them .
Most likely you will need to have the boat hauled to see if you can rotate the seacock handle . I'm not sure I would be willing to break off the valve
trying to free the handle with the boat in the water .
Most folks here will also strongly suggest the there be two hose clamps on the end of each hose . I've seen hose clamps come loose from the constant vibration .
Thank you for adding pictures . It helps us more than you realize .

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Welcome to the site.

Firstly, your approach to this site is excellent. You wouldn't believe how many questions are asked with :

- this goes from over here
- it then makes a sort of turn
-then it wraps around this other thing over there

................... and after the first two sentences, you haven't a clue in hell what they're talking about. You're ample use of pictures ensures your audience knows exactly that of which you speak.

Lots of questions here. The most dangerous thing on any boat is are the thru hulls and their attached hoses. Your thru hulls date from '79 and they definitely need attention and in most cases replacing. Worse than that, EVERY last hose attached to these thru hulls needs immediate replacement. Most appear to be on the verge of failure and none that i can see are of acceptable quality for their intended purpose. Also, all thru hull hoses should be double clamped with 100% SS clamps. I saw only one. As you asked, in your present condition you should definitely close all thru hulls when you are not on the boat. Even with thru hull in pristine condition, they should still always be closed when you are away from the boat.

Just enquiring about these matters shows you are on the right path. A browse through the archives of this site may offer some suggestions as to the type of hose you should be using. An excellent site for hoses and thru hulls on this site is :

Marine How To - DIY for Boaters - Marine How To

For DIY boaters in an attempt to try and keep the sport as affordable & safe as possible. How To articles for sailboats and powerboats.

marinehowto.com

............... but some degree of tempering is required as these instructions tend to lean more towards offshore boats battling Force 10 wind and sea conditions.

 

[Johnny Sails]

Thank you for responding to my post. I'm relieved to have a resource to answer these questions. OK so after reading your responses it's clear that at some point I will have to have the boat pulled out of the water so that I can try and close these through hull valves and probably replace the valves. Regarding the hoses, if I start disconnecting them then water will start coming in so I need to get some plugs ready to go as well as all new hoses and clamps. Then you just swap it out one at a time as fast as you can without letting too much water start coming in? This does seem urgent that I at least need to get new hoses on here clamped properly before one of these fails. What would be the procedure in a quick swap of new hoses with new clamps?

 

[Davidasailor26]

I’d be pretty concerned trying to replace the hoses while in the water with the seacocks open. As you pull off the old hoses they’re liable to split or tear, and water will start coming in, potentially while you’re still trying to get the rest of the hose off the barb. There’s also a chance the thru hull will split when you’re pulling to get the hose off. At a minimum I’d try to go for a swim and plug the thru hulls from the outside with bungs before messing around inside. The best thing to do would really be to haul the boat and replace the seacocks and hoses at once, though that will be somewhat time consuming and not inexpensive.

A 1” thru-hull 2’ underwater will let about 19 gallons per minute into the boat (depending on which online fluid calculator I use). That’s significantly more water than I’d be comfortable having coming into the boat while I try to get a new hose on.

 

[BigEasy]

OK so after reading your responses it's clear that at some point I will have to have the boat pulled out of the water so that I can try and close these through hull valves and probably replace the valves. Regarding the hoses,

The best plan is to haul the boat and replace all thru Hull fittings, valves, tailpieces, hoses, & clamps. The age & condition of yours could cause failure of any of the components while attempting to operate the valve or replace the hose. Check the shaft stuffing box / packing gland also for excessive leaking. If it leaks excessively & not correctable by adjusting it, the packing may require replacement & check the hose while you’re at it. Best to play it safe with these projects, with the boat out of the water. Don’t mean to complicate this; however, if you’re going to pay the expense for hauling the boat, it’s a good time to paint the bottom (if necessary). & compound/wax the topsides (side of the Hull).
Congratulations on acquiring your new boat & welcome to the forum.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Congratulations on acquiring your new boat & welcome to the forum ...............

........................ and dire poverty .

 

[garymalmgren]

Hi Johnny.
As mentioned you could remove and replace all seacocks and have piece of mind ( and as Ralph mentioned an empty wallet).

Know how: Thru-hulls and Seacocks

Duncan Kent explains what you should look for in these vital fittings Clearly, with any device that penetrates the hull of a yacht, the choice of materials,

www.sailmagazine.com

Or you could remove all seacocks, inspect and repair what you can.
If they are quality bronze ( an option that some people chose when the purchased a new boat) they can be wire brushed, the interior (cones or gates) lightly sanded and rebedded. Bronze seacocks can last a long time. I said "can" not always will.

Seacock Maintenance | BoatUS

www.boatus.com

As for cheaper brass seacocks, if your boat is 40 years old and the cheap seacocks have lasted that long, replacing them with the same cheapo units seems logical to me.

The hoses can be washed and inspected.
Cracks, a softening deterioration or other defects will tell you weather to replace them or not.
I personally feel that the word "MARINE" printed on a hose does mean a marine hose, but not a hose that is that much better than a good hose without that magic word.
Of course the Coast Guard and Insurance companies have their opinions too. So, take care.

Photo 2 looks like a gray water storage bladder. I would replace that.

As mentioned double stainless steel hose clamps.

All the best

gary

 

[Johnny Sails]

OK, again thank you for the info. I think I will end up hauling it out and unstepping the mast/ replacing all the seacocks, hoses, etc. Hopefully the price of hall out isn't too crazy around here. Thanks for the info!

 

[Project_Mayhem]

I’d be pretty concerned trying to replace the hoses while in the water with the seacocks open. As you pull off the old hoses they’re liable to split or tear, and water will start coming in, potentially while you’re still trying to get the rest of the hose off the barb. There’s also a chance the thru hull will split when you’re pulling to get the hose off. At a minimum I’d try to go for a swim and plug the thru hulls from the outside with bungs before messing around inside. The best thing to do would really be to haul the boat and replace the seacocks and hoses at once, though that will be somewhat time consuming and not inexpensive.

A 1” thru-hull 2’ underwater will let about 19 gallons per minute into the boat (depending on which online fluid calculator I use). That’s significantly more water than I’d be comfortable having coming into the boat while I try to get a new hose on.

Regardless of the gallons per hour it says it can pump, it's not likely that it can keep up in reality. Bye bye boat!

 

[jssailem]

Welcome Johnny to SBO. Congratulations on your getting a boat.
Rule #1 on boats that the owner values and wants to keep, KEEP THE WATER ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE HULL!

Posted above is solid advice from @Ralph Johnstone @BigEasy and @Davidasailor26 about through hulls. Like tires on a car they are a replaceable product. Sometimes, as @garymalmgren explained, they can be cleaned up and reused. They may continue to serve their purpose or they may fail suddenly like tire tread left on the highway.

Having soft wooden plugs is a temporary safety step to get the boat and crew to an emergency haul out. Water coming into a boat is not for the faint of heart. Pumps work but only if you stop the water from coming in.

If this boat is one you want to keep, then hauling it out of the water now and replacing the through hulls is a cost worth taking.

That full bladder is a biohazard waiting to burst. You may find a geyser of foul fluids and waiting to be released when you try to open the cap and pump it out. There should be a hose to the bladder and a cap on the deck to use at a pump out. Think septic tank. That large white valve with the black handle and the nipple that is dripping looks like what is called a Y valve. It looks to be dripping. I would not attempt to turn the valve until I had a hose in that dripping nipple and the hose would empty on a place that accepts sewage. Take care with this project. Once empty then you can work on removing it from the boat.

These are days when you will bond with the boat. She will ask for your wallet. Like your favorite pickup truck you will say sure what ever it takes or not. Be sure to have some fun along the way.

 

[Tally Ho]

Congrats on buying your O’Day. I have a 1988 O’Day 322.

The thru hulls and hoses attached are critical to keeping your boat afloat!

I think one of the first things I would do is haul the boat out of the water (did you get a survey?), and replace or rebed all of the under the waterline fittings, and all of the hoses attached to them. In the meantime, keep the valves closed (if you can…but don’t force them).

I found this situation on the galley sink drain, just by accident when I brushed against the drain hose…

Remember, “Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing–absolutely nothing–half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”

I see lots of work in your future, but you can get the boat seaworthy (but not perfect), and then learn to sail as you keep improving the boat as time and $$ permit.

Have fun with it.


Greg

 

[Johnny Sails]

Congrats on buying your O’Day. I have a 1988 O’Day 322.

The thru hulls and hoses attached are critical to keeping your boat afloat!

I think one of the first things I would do is haul the boat out of the water (did you get a survey?), and replace or rebed all of the under the waterline fittings, and all of the hoses attached to them. In the meantime, keep the valves closed (if you can…but don’t force them).

I found this situation on the galley sink drain, just by accident when I brushed against the drain hose…

Remember, “Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing–absolutely nothing–half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”

I see lots of work in your future, but you can get the boat seaworthy (but not perfect), and then learn to sail as you keep improving the boat as time and $$ permit.

Have fun with it.


Greg

thanks Greg! this is awesome.

 

[Johnny Sails]

I knew these forums would be a wealth of information because I have been using forums to help me build airplanes. I also like to fly planes and I'm currently building a kitfox IV plane.

 

[Johnny Sails]

Welcome Johnny to SBO. Congratulations on your getting a boat.
Rule #1 on boats that the owner values and wants to keep, KEEP THE WATER ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE HULL!

Posted above is solid advice from @Ralph Johnstone @BigEasy and @Davidasailor26 about through hulls. Like tires on a car they are a replaceable product. Sometimes, as @garymalmgren explained, they can be cleaned up and reused. They may continue to serve their purpose or they may fail suddenly like tire tread left on the highway.

Having soft wooden plugs is a temporary safety step to get the boat and crew to an emergency haul out. Water coming into a boat is not for the faint of heart. Pumps work but only if you stop the water from coming in.

If this boat is one you want to keep, then hauling it out of the water now and replacing the through hulls is a cost worth taking.

That full bladder is a biohazard waiting to burst. You may find a geyser of foul fluids and waiting to be released when you try to open the cap and pump it out. There should be a hose to the bladder and a cap on the deck to use at a pump out. Think septic tank. That large white valve with the black handle and the nipple that is dripping looks like what is called a Y valve. It looks to be dripping. I would not attempt to turn the valve until I had a hose in that dripping nipple and the hose would empty on a place that accepts sewage. Take care with this project. Once empty then you can work on removing it from the boat.

These are days when you will bond with the boat. She will ask for your wallet. Like your favorite pickup truck you will say sure what ever it takes or not. Be sure to have some fun along the way.

haha thanks for the warning about the nasty shit! this part is not fun!

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I'm switching it all over to Lithium.

Don't do it. Far too expensive in your case for what you get in return. Stick with deep cycle flooded lead acid for now which must be of the maintenance type where you can check the acid level every few months when the boat is in use.

 

[Johnny Sails]

Don't do it. Far too expensive in your case for what you get in return. Stick with deep cycle flooded lead acid for now which must be of the maintenance type where you can check the acid level every few months when the boat is in use.

I already have Marine grade Lithium batteries which I was using with solar offgrid out in Oregon. I brought them with me. it does make me nervous about the possibility of a fire. I would only feel comfortable if they were contained in a metal box.

 

[Davidasailor26]

I already have Marine grade Lithium batteries which I was using with solar offgrid out in Oregon. I brought them with me. it does make me nervous about the possibility of a fire. I would only feel comfortable if they were contained in a metal box.

If you already have them and they’re LiFePO4 that certainly helps reduce the cost of entry. Testing has shown that chemistry to be pretty safe. Do they have internal BMS’s or will you need to buy and integrate something? And how will you keep them charged? The OEM alternator was not designed for that.