Hi all, I'm in the process of changing over to an all chain (or at least mostly chain) anchor rode. The problem is I have three differant sections of chain to be joined together. After looking through both the Defender and WM catalogs, the best solution to me seemed to be the split link made of drop cast steel that has the little nubs you pean over. I tried these last season to link two pieces, but had problems getting the little nubs to pean over properly. My thought was to heat them up with an acetylene torch to soften them before hammering them down. Then I got to thinking suppose I were to try and weld them shut (not just the nubs). Does this seem right? Is there a better method I'm not aware of? BTW, we're talking about 5/16" BBB chain that runs through a Maxwell windlass. Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ernie
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I agree with you
I think the split links with the nubs to be peened over are the best option with regard to strength and the ability to run through the windlass. I attemped to join two chain sections last year and failed due to the difficulty of acomplishing the peening. My temporary solution was to join the two pieces with a shackle and lift it over the gypsy on the windlass as necessary. This year, I plan to have another go at it. I think I failed on the first attempt because I did not have a hard solid surface to back up the link when hammering. This year I plan on using a piece of a railroad track that a friend happen to have. And I will use a 2# hammer instead of the 1# one I used last year. I am concerned that this proceedure also will not be successful. I called ACCO (the manufacturer of the link) and they told me to just "peen it down". Obviously easier said than done..... If anyone else has any advice on this task, please share.
I think the split links with the nubs to be peened over are the best option with regard to strength and the ability to run through the windlass. I attemped to join two chain sections last year and failed due to the difficulty of acomplishing the peening. My temporary solution was to join the two pieces with a shackle and lift it over the gypsy on the windlass as necessary. This year, I plan to have another go at it. I think I failed on the first attempt because I did not have a hard solid surface to back up the link when hammering. This year I plan on using a piece of a railroad track that a friend happen to have. And I will use a 2# hammer instead of the 1# one I used last year. I am concerned that this proceedure also will not be successful. I called ACCO (the manufacturer of the link) and they told me to just "peen it down". Obviously easier said than done..... If anyone else has any advice on this task, please share.
Do you have a proper ball peen hammer? The
round head really makes a difference. I would suggest a smaller hammer, maybe 12 or 14 ounce, and go slow, lots of small hits, watch what the metal is doing. I have used split links in past, and I don't remember any particular problem. Another approach is to use a punch to start the nubs, so you can do some small movement of metal. I'm afraid of heat on the split links, because their strength may depend on a hardening process. The split links are more subject to corrosion than full links, especially the nubs, so paint them with rustoleum and keep an eye on them. If the split links stay underwater for any length of time, pull them up and inspect every few months.
round head really makes a difference. I would suggest a smaller hammer, maybe 12 or 14 ounce, and go slow, lots of small hits, watch what the metal is doing. I have used split links in past, and I don't remember any particular problem. Another approach is to use a punch to start the nubs, so you can do some small movement of metal. I'm afraid of heat on the split links, because their strength may depend on a hardening process. The split links are more subject to corrosion than full links, especially the nubs, so paint them with rustoleum and keep an eye on them. If the split links stay underwater for any length of time, pull them up and inspect every few months.
There is a device for joining two pieces of chain
There is a mechanical device that is suppose to be the proper way to join two pieces of chain. I used it while cruising to join two twenty feet sections when I realized 20 feet was not enough chain for any anchor. The 40 foot chain worked great and I never had a problem with the connection. It used an allen wrench bolt to connect the linking device to both pieces of chain. It was expensive but it is what I would recomend. Defender or West Marine should sell it. Just checked and neither carry it any more. Best we get our chain at the right lenghth to start with now.
There is a mechanical device that is suppose to be the proper way to join two pieces of chain. I used it while cruising to join two twenty feet sections when I realized 20 feet was not enough chain for any anchor. The 40 foot chain worked great and I never had a problem with the connection. It used an allen wrench bolt to connect the linking device to both pieces of chain. It was expensive but it is what I would recomend. Defender or West Marine should sell it. Just checked and neither carry it any more. Best we get our chain at the right lenghth to start with now.
Would it go through the windlass, KennyH?
I think you're referring to a 'swivel connector', which will work fine if you haul by hand, but won't fit a windlass. Seems like there ought to be a tool to do this 'peening'..... would a boatyard have something like that? I'm with Fred - heating that link sounds risky. After all, it already IS the weakest link, eh? NYSail, a snubber is a definite YES for an all-chain rode. Unfortunately, snubbers are never quite as effective as an all-nylon rode, and there are many cruisers who would like to find a REALLY effective snubber. With 40 feet of chain, I suspect you'll have at least some nylon rode out any time you anchor, so you should be OK. Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
I think you're referring to a 'swivel connector', which will work fine if you haul by hand, but won't fit a windlass. Seems like there ought to be a tool to do this 'peening'..... would a boatyard have something like that? I'm with Fred - heating that link sounds risky. After all, it already IS the weakest link, eh? NYSail, a snubber is a definite YES for an all-chain rode. Unfortunately, snubbers are never quite as effective as an all-nylon rode, and there are many cruisers who would like to find a REALLY effective snubber. With 40 feet of chain, I suspect you'll have at least some nylon rode out any time you anchor, so you should be OK. Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
I bit the bullet and did all chain from scratch...
...I didn't want to have problems with the "weakest link" nor have problems with the windless. abe
...I didn't want to have problems with the "weakest link" nor have problems with the windless. abe
Snubber
for chain: two ways: one of those black rubber pieces that the line wraps through and around, led with a short line from the bow cleat to a chain hook to the chain, or just plain nylon rode in the same place. Either way, make the tension on the line by loosening the chain after all is set up.
for chain: two ways: one of those black rubber pieces that the line wraps through and around, led with a short line from the bow cleat to a chain hook to the chain, or just plain nylon rode in the same place. Either way, make the tension on the line by loosening the chain after all is set up.
Welding links
sounds interesting. I haven't done that. To do it, consider welding the tips of each link to the body of the other link rather than at the nubs. You'll get more surface area for a better weld, you won't lose the galvanized surface on the nub or make the nub brittle from heat where it could break off under the edge of the weld inside the link. The connecting link from ACCO (Defender) is galvanized, so use a shop vac to pull off the zinc fumes. You can rezinc per the article. To peen the links without any rocking of the two parts, consider tightly gripping the matched links with vise grips on the opposite end, hold across from the nub with pliers and use the top side edge of a vise to oppose the hammer. It's hard to do that with two attached chains.
sounds interesting. I haven't done that. To do it, consider welding the tips of each link to the body of the other link rather than at the nubs. You'll get more surface area for a better weld, you won't lose the galvanized surface on the nub or make the nub brittle from heat where it could break off under the edge of the weld inside the link. The connecting link from ACCO (Defender) is galvanized, so use a shop vac to pull off the zinc fumes. You can rezinc per the article. To peen the links without any rocking of the two parts, consider tightly gripping the matched links with vise grips on the opposite end, hold across from the nub with pliers and use the top side edge of a vise to oppose the hammer. It's hard to do that with two attached chains.
Snubber; find the largest nylon line that will fit
through the chain. Probably 5/16 in this case. cut a ten to twenty foot (or more or less, your call) piece of the line, burn the ends, put it through a link of chain, tie a figure eight knot in the end so it won't slide through. put the other end through the chain so theres two or three feet of slack between the links where the line is tied. Tie another figure eight. You could also tie one end to the boat, preferably right at the windlass, and the other end through the chain as you let out the last bit. In either case, the slack in the chain created by the line is how much snub you have. If the line seems too small for your comfort zone, use two shackles to attach the line to the chain, or one shackle if one end of the line is tied to the boat. Smaller line stretches more easily, so it snubs better (if it doesn't break).
through the chain. Probably 5/16 in this case. cut a ten to twenty foot (or more or less, your call) piece of the line, burn the ends, put it through a link of chain, tie a figure eight knot in the end so it won't slide through. put the other end through the chain so theres two or three feet of slack between the links where the line is tied. Tie another figure eight. You could also tie one end to the boat, preferably right at the windlass, and the other end through the chain as you let out the last bit. In either case, the slack in the chain created by the line is how much snub you have. If the line seems too small for your comfort zone, use two shackles to attach the line to the chain, or one shackle if one end of the line is tied to the boat. Smaller line stretches more easily, so it snubs better (if it doesn't break).
Use a chain hook....
instead of tying anything to the chain or using a shackle. Goes on easy, and, more important, comes off easy when it's time to up-anchor. Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
instead of tying anything to the chain or using a shackle. Goes on easy, and, more important, comes off easy when it's time to up-anchor. Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
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