My bilge pump has been running too often. The water that exits the boat is clean seawater. Any thoughts of where the leak may be coming from? Thanks, Doug
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
Couple of guesses.
Doug: My first guess would be the packing gland. Next would be the rudder shaft and the last guess would be the muffler. These are just places to start looking. You may also look for one of your thru hull hoses that may be cracked, or even one of the valves. Check the sinks and the raw water intake for the engine.
Doug: My first guess would be the packing gland. Next would be the rudder shaft and the last guess would be the muffler. These are just places to start looking. You may also look for one of your thru hull hoses that may be cracked, or even one of the valves. Check the sinks and the raw water intake for the engine.
E
Ed Schenck
Need more info I think.
Is this while tied, with diesel running, while heeled, etc.? There are not too many saltwater ingresses so should not be too difficult to nail down. Notice that I assumed saltwater although you stated "seawater". Not sure how you would know if it wasn't salty. Model and year of boat might be useful info also.
Is this while tied, with diesel running, while heeled, etc.? There are not too many saltwater ingresses so should not be too difficult to nail down. Notice that I assumed saltwater although you stated "seawater". Not sure how you would know if it wasn't salty. Model and year of boat might be useful info also.
D
Douglas Perrygo
More info about leak on H40
The leak seems to be originating in the area below the sink. It is coming from the same area into which the ice box drains. However, the icebox is empty and dry. From the top, the thru-hull fitting seem OK. Although I noticed some corrosion that was not there a few weeks ago. Engine compartment checked out dry too.
The leak seems to be originating in the area below the sink. It is coming from the same area into which the ice box drains. However, the icebox is empty and dry. From the top, the thru-hull fitting seem OK. Although I noticed some corrosion that was not there a few weeks ago. Engine compartment checked out dry too.
P
Paul Akers
Be careful...
Is the thru hull fitting plastic or metal? If there is corrosion, it is probably metal and possibly fatigued. I'd keep a plug handy, just in case. It it's corroded, and it's the fitting leaking, then replacement is in order.
Is the thru hull fitting plastic or metal? If there is corrosion, it is probably metal and possibly fatigued. I'd keep a plug handy, just in case. It it's corroded, and it's the fitting leaking, then replacement is in order.
D
Douglas Perrygo
More information
It is a 1986 Hunter 40. Yes, it is saltwater. The boat has docked, no engine running. The fitting is metal. Does replacement require hauling out or can I make an inwater repair? I would hate to detach the fitting and find my boat quickly sinking! Thanks
It is a 1986 Hunter 40. Yes, it is saltwater. The boat has docked, no engine running. The fitting is metal. Does replacement require hauling out or can I make an inwater repair? I would hate to detach the fitting and find my boat quickly sinking! Thanks
J
Jim Ewing
Rate of leak
How fast is it leaking? My big concern would be a sudden catastrophic failure due to metal failure. You might end up with an odd shaped hole that wouldn't plug very easily plus you'd have to be on the boat when it failed to catch it in time. If it did fail your bilge pump would never keep up with the torrent. Is it coming in from the though-hull body or the in-line valve? If the former I'd get the boat hauled RIGHT AWAY beacuase you might have nothing but bronze mush keeping the sea out. It it's leaking at the valve you might be able to plug the through hull from below and disassemble the valve. Taking it apart without plugging from the bottom would be a very wet affair. Good luck, Jim "Prospect"
How fast is it leaking? My big concern would be a sudden catastrophic failure due to metal failure. You might end up with an odd shaped hole that wouldn't plug very easily plus you'd have to be on the boat when it failed to catch it in time. If it did fail your bilge pump would never keep up with the torrent. Is it coming in from the though-hull body or the in-line valve? If the former I'd get the boat hauled RIGHT AWAY beacuase you might have nothing but bronze mush keeping the sea out. It it's leaking at the valve you might be able to plug the through hull from below and disassemble the valve. Taking it apart without plugging from the bottom would be a very wet affair. Good luck, Jim "Prospect"
are you seacocks closed?
Doug: Are the seacocks close or do you leave them open? You may try closing all of them and see if you still have water in the bilge.
Doug: Are the seacocks close or do you leave them open? You may try closing all of them and see if you still have water in the bilge.
D
Dick McKee
You dont need to haul to change a thru the hull
Most knowledgeable service companies with a diver can chage the thru hull in you slip in about 30 minutes. I've had it done. They use a big rubber cup like a toilet plunger on the out side of the hull while they are removing the valve and flange nut, and then very quicly remove it, slide in the new thru hull and replace the cup till the inside is secure...It saves alot of money. It was only $50 for the divers time and the cost of the thru the hull...
Most knowledgeable service companies with a diver can chage the thru hull in you slip in about 30 minutes. I've had it done. They use a big rubber cup like a toilet plunger on the out side of the hull while they are removing the valve and flange nut, and then very quicly remove it, slide in the new thru hull and replace the cup till the inside is secure...It saves alot of money. It was only $50 for the divers time and the cost of the thru the hull...
- Status
- Not open for further replies.