Sealing the Deck/Hull Joint on H23

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Chuck

I just got back from the boat and had as one of my objectives to re-seal the Deck/Hull joint to prevent leaks. I couldn't find any way of removing the rubber bumper from the track without destroying the entire track structure. Could someone refresh me as to how to get the rubber bumper off without replacing all the track material, is it even possible to remove? Thanks much, /Chuck S/V Windsongs H23
 
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Kevin Keen

Rubbing Strake

Chuck: Yes you can remove the rubber bumper (rubbing strake). Generally because of age, it can be very difficult to put the old one back on as removal can lead to destroying it. one is well advised to order a replacement from Hunter and install it instead. This is not something that I have experience with but there is info in the archives. - Kevin.
 
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Mark Major

Done it

Mine is a 86H23. Remove the stainless splice joint (2 screws) at the transom. Pull the rubbing strake from the plastic by grabbing it with pliers and just walking around the boat. Under that you will find the plastic rubbing strake keeper is screwed with stainless flathead screws through it and the deck section, to the hull section. Remove all of them, and the plastic rubbing strake keeper will pull away as well. Order a replacement from Hunter, and you'll be amazed at how reasonably priced it will be (mine was around $125 for all of it). In the meantime...with all the screws out of the deck/hull joint place small wedges along the length, and stick sand the joint surfaces with a rough paper, maybe around 60 grit. Remove the wedges. When the new rail arrives, the fun begins. You will start from the transom, and fit it around the boat, using a heat gun, or even a hair dryer works well, to soften it to make the "corners", and help is good to make it tight. Drill and countersink where you want the screws...you want them in the old holes, but you'll make a few new ones; buy a number of like screws to fill the gaps, for you own this boat and want a good attachment (Hunter built it economically-you hope to sail your world, so make it stay). Ok, once around the boat you will find that there is more rail than can be utilized, so cut the excess off at the joint. Admire your work, and then remove it. Put the wedges back in along the rail, and inject Sikaflex into the joint length. Immediately reinstall the rail, and hopefully you'll make all the screw holes, but if you don't, be prepared to drill fresh ones. Don't over tighten, for that will give rippled results; with Sika the screws are redundant for structural integrity, therefore only effective until the adhesive cures. Don't mess with the stuff that squeezes out; cut it off with a razor knife when it's cured. Do this if you don't ever want to separate the deck from the hull. The new rubbing strake can be installed the length of the rail by squeezing it in and missing your fingers with a rubber hammer. Let me know how this works for you. Mark Major, s/v Lesismor memajor@mpinet.net
 
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