Sealing the base of the pedestal
- Thread starter jorgefife
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Flitz
I have found I need to clean all the stainless on my 2007 H-36 once or twice a year depending on the salt build up.
I use FLITZ and srubbing pad for hard to clean spots and also 3M stainless polish but have no bad spots of stainless like you mention just clean it with FLITZ or 3M and looks like new again.
Some times a put some of the regular Fleet wax on it when waxing the whole boat.
Nick
I have found I need to clean all the stainless on my 2007 H-36 once or twice a year depending on the salt build up.
I use FLITZ and srubbing pad for hard to clean spots and also 3M stainless polish but have no bad spots of stainless like you mention just clean it with FLITZ or 3M and looks like new again.
Some times a put some of the regular Fleet wax on it when waxing the whole boat.
Nick
Are you referring to the base of the pedestal where it bolts to the cockpit sole?
If that is the case, I would suggest that you actually unscrew the base, and clean both surfaces. Then use a high quality caulking like Life Caulk, 4200 or one of the appropriate caulkings that is compatible with both surfaces. Just do not use anything like 5200.
If that is the case, I would suggest that you actually unscrew the base, and clean both surfaces. Then use a high quality caulking like Life Caulk, 4200 or one of the appropriate caulkings that is compatible with both surfaces. Just do not use anything like 5200.
Thanks Steve, that is the answer I was looking for
Thank you also, Seadaddler, the problem is now addressed by Steve, but your advice on the stainless is noted.
While on the subject: I removed the stainless round air vent that has a net on top, right next to the companionway, but did not caulk it so now it leaks: is silicone good enogh?
It never leaked till I took it off and replaced the base, did not clean the base properly
Thank you also, Seadaddler, the problem is now addressed by Steve, but your advice on the stainless is noted.
While on the subject: I removed the stainless round air vent that has a net on top, right next to the companionway, but did not caulk it so now it leaks: is silicone good enogh?
It never leaked till I took it off and replaced the base, did not clean the base properly
Life Caulk is a good product for many of the caulking jobs around the boat (one of my favorites).
You need to find a chart that list the compatibilities with different caulking jobs.
Life Caulk is a polysulfide sealant. It is recommended for fiberglass, wood, metal, glass (above & below water line). It is NOT recommended for glass to vinyl, ABS/Lexan, plastics.
Each of the different type of sealants and different properties so you need to check before you use. In your case the Life Caulk is a good product for both of these applications.
You need to find a chart that list the compatibilities with different caulking jobs.
Life Caulk is a polysulfide sealant. It is recommended for fiberglass, wood, metal, glass (above & below water line). It is NOT recommended for glass to vinyl, ABS/Lexan, plastics.
Each of the different type of sealants and different properties so you need to check before you use. In your case the Life Caulk is a good product for both of these applications.
Steve,
Going back to the base of the pedestal: it is not leaking at all, just looks grubby and dirty around the base, and not very uniformly done: previous owner couldn't have cared less, but I am tackling all these jobs with much enthusiasm, zero knowledge, but willingness to learn, to spare!
I have been reading these pages going back many yeats, and you as well as Ed Schenck are oltime contributors.
Sorry for all the questions, but if I did know thw answers I would not bother you
I have a neighbor with similar boat, and he helps me also
Best regards to you all,
Jorge Fife
Going back to the base of the pedestal: it is not leaking at all, just looks grubby and dirty around the base, and not very uniformly done: previous owner couldn't have cared less, but I am tackling all these jobs with much enthusiasm, zero knowledge, but willingness to learn, to spare!
I have been reading these pages going back many yeats, and you as well as Ed Schenck are oltime contributors.
Sorry for all the questions, but if I did know thw answers I would not bother you
I have a neighbor with similar boat, and he helps me also
Best regards to you all,
Jorge Fife
Some other Considerations
I also used lifecaulk for my pedastal base after I repaired the water damaged cockpit sole of my newly purchased 1980 Hunter 36.
From your description is it that a previous owner put a bead of caulk all the way around the circumferance of the pedestal base? If so, from what I've read and from a logic perspective, just removing the existing caulk bead and then doing the same thing again I think will likely result in an unsatisfactory result. To ensure a water-tight and better looking result over the long haul, the caulk seal should be between the underside of the base and the sole ... not just a bead applied around the outside of the joint. Also water can find its way inside the sole core through the bolt holes that fasten the pedastal to the sole. A bead of caulk around the base helps but doesn't prevent this. A better result will be obtained by loosening the bolts, prying the pedastal up and injecting caulk in the gap. Then tighten the bolts. Wipe up the resulting ooze and (from memory) a rag saturated with paint thinner will clean up the residue for a good looking job.
I also used lifecaulk for my pedastal base after I repaired the water damaged cockpit sole of my newly purchased 1980 Hunter 36.
From your description is it that a previous owner put a bead of caulk all the way around the circumferance of the pedestal base? If so, from what I've read and from a logic perspective, just removing the existing caulk bead and then doing the same thing again I think will likely result in an unsatisfactory result. To ensure a water-tight and better looking result over the long haul, the caulk seal should be between the underside of the base and the sole ... not just a bead applied around the outside of the joint. Also water can find its way inside the sole core through the bolt holes that fasten the pedastal to the sole. A bead of caulk around the base helps but doesn't prevent this. A better result will be obtained by loosening the bolts, prying the pedastal up and injecting caulk in the gap. Then tighten the bolts. Wipe up the resulting ooze and (from memory) a rag saturated with paint thinner will clean up the residue for a good looking job.
Rardi makes a good point about leaks around the bolts.
If you end up removing the pedestal, I would recomment that you over-drill the base screws and over drill these holes. Fill them with epoxy and then redrill them when you reset the pedestal base. This can help prevent the plywood under the fiberglass sole from rotting. If you cannot do this, then I suggest that you put caulking on the screw & heads and tighted the nuts from the underside.
If you end up removing the pedestal, I would recomment that you over-drill the base screws and over drill these holes. Fill them with epoxy and then redrill them when you reset the pedestal base. This can help prevent the plywood under the fiberglass sole from rotting. If you cannot do this, then I suggest that you put caulking on the screw & heads and tighted the nuts from the underside.
I would use 5200 as this is a structural bond and one of the highest-stress areas on the boat. Relying on the bolts alone to hold it down whilst allowing a flexible but non-bonding 'sealant' (i.e, silicone or Life Caulk) to keep out the water is how backing plates (and here, it's usually plywood) get crushed by wreaking bolts and flat washers, and then they get weakened, and then they get to allow water into the laminations and the bilge.
The Cherubini 44's pedestal is put down with 5200. Learn from it.
The Cherubini 44's pedestal is put down with 5200. Learn from it.
Jorge: If you want to never be able to remove/work on your pedestal by all means attach it with 3M 5200. If you are sane, you'll use polysulfide like life caulk, or silicone. Proper hardware attachment is all you need to adequately support the pedestal. I removed mine several years ago for repairs. I unloaded a tube of caulk on the base and bolted it in making certain I got good "squish". It has not leaked and is as strong as the cockpit sole. By the way. 5200 lasts only about a year in normal sun light, after which it crazes and breaks away.
Thank you all.
Great to get help from you good people!
I still don't know how to post pictures, but as soon as I figure out, I will show you how a dummy can turn a wreck into a great boat! (Thanks to all of you, I didn't even know port was the left side of the boat)
Great to get help from you good people!
I still don't know how to post pictures, but as soon as I figure out, I will show you how a dummy can turn a wreck into a great boat! (Thanks to all of you, I didn't even know port was the left side of the boat)
I have to agree with Steve and Sam on Life Caulk or 4200 as the correct sealant. And disagree strongly with JC2 on the use of 5200. The pedestal and/or cockpit sole will need work over time. You definitely do not want a permanent bond. If it were a brand new pedestal on a brand new sole then maybe.
Write one of us(click on our names over on the left) and describe your problem with loading pictures. If the pictures are already on your hard drive it is really quite easy.
Write one of us(click on our names over on the left) and describe your problem with loading pictures. If the pictures are already on your hard drive it is really quite easy.
Looks like I finally have it!
The first picture is when I first saw the boat, all others sank around it, but mine came out of the water and laid to rest 300 yards away.
It was brought up to where it shows
The second picture is where I have it now, anmd where I have been working on it
I will send a few more so you can see the work I have done to it
Was lucky enough to have found an exact same Hunter, same year, and from it I have removed winches, bow and stern rail, hand railsetc
By next week when I step p the mast, I will put everything in place
The motor is in excellent shape
Thank you all
Jorge Fife
The first picture is when I first saw the boat, all others sank around it, but mine came out of the water and laid to rest 300 yards away.
It was brought up to where it shows
The second picture is where I have it now, anmd where I have been working on it
I will send a few more so you can see the work I have done to it
Was lucky enough to have found an exact same Hunter, same year, and from it I have removed winches, bow and stern rail, hand railsetc
By next week when I step p the mast, I will put everything in place
The motor is in excellent shape
Thank you all
Jorge Fife
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