Has anyone used this hose before? I'm replacing the hoses for the holding tank and head. This hose was recommended but it's extremely tough to work with. It doesn't bend and trying to get it to go over the new fitttings is almost impossible. I was told not to heat it or use liquid detergent because that ruins the permiability of the hose. I need suggestions on how to get the fittings into the hose. They just won't fit. Peggy Hall, are you out there?
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
It's excellent hose..
The only one that's "bulletproof" when it comes to odor permeation. And yes, a LOT of people have used it, me included. However, you were given bad advice about heating it or using dish soap. Unless you really know what you're doing with a heat gun, I don't recommend using that to heat ANY hose...it's too easy to overheat it, but you can certainly use a blow dryer (and a lot of patience) to warm it enough to get it on a fitting, and there's no reason not to use dish soap...although K-Y surgical jelly works better. Bending it is another story... No hose should be bent more than it wants to bend easily without heat, and no hose should be heated to make it bend...that weakens it, and can result in a kink later. If you have to go around a tight bend, break it and insert an inline radius fitting. SeaLand offers a whole collection of fittings--including 90 and 45 radius fittings, wyes, tees and elbows--that are a LOT easier to work with than PVC fittings. Give 'em a call tomorrow at 800-321-9886 and ask 'em to fax you that page from their Retail Products Guide. Figure out what you need, and call 'em back to order 'em...they should arrive in time for you to finish the job next weekend.
The only one that's "bulletproof" when it comes to odor permeation. And yes, a LOT of people have used it, me included. However, you were given bad advice about heating it or using dish soap. Unless you really know what you're doing with a heat gun, I don't recommend using that to heat ANY hose...it's too easy to overheat it, but you can certainly use a blow dryer (and a lot of patience) to warm it enough to get it on a fitting, and there's no reason not to use dish soap...although K-Y surgical jelly works better. Bending it is another story... No hose should be bent more than it wants to bend easily without heat, and no hose should be heated to make it bend...that weakens it, and can result in a kink later. If you have to go around a tight bend, break it and insert an inline radius fitting. SeaLand offers a whole collection of fittings--including 90 and 45 radius fittings, wyes, tees and elbows--that are a LOT easier to work with than PVC fittings. Give 'em a call tomorrow at 800-321-9886 and ask 'em to fax you that page from their Retail Products Guide. Figure out what you need, and call 'em back to order 'em...they should arrive in time for you to finish the job next weekend.
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Dave
hose
Hi Joe: Peggie is right, I installed a new head last week and used Sealand hose, heated it with a hairdryer, and used a little liquid hand soap, and everything went just fine. Patience is a key and careful measuring a must at the price per ft charged! Good luck, Dave S/V Westwind
Hi Joe: Peggie is right, I installed a new head last week and used Sealand hose, heated it with a hairdryer, and used a little liquid hand soap, and everything went just fine. Patience is a key and careful measuring a must at the price per ft charged! Good luck, Dave S/V Westwind
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Jim WIllis
Is that the white stuff or the black hose?
Redoing mine too but on a tight budget. The original hose on the boat is almost translucent and ribbed. the hose I bought is thicker and white. This stuff has to be heated too. I use silicone sealant to join (selad adn mkes slippery too. It's not too late I have not done the job yet. Jim W
Redoing mine too but on a tight budget. The original hose on the boat is almost translucent and ribbed. the hose I bought is thicker and white. This stuff has to be heated too. I use silicone sealant to join (selad adn mkes slippery too. It's not too late I have not done the job yet. Jim W
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Don't use ANY sealant on hose connections.
They should only be clamped, and all plumbing connections should be double clamped. Hose should be rated for sanitation...if you use white, it should be flexible PVC schedule 148. It will be marked "potable water/sanitation." Anything else may not be rated for below waterline connection and/or is more susceptible to odor permeation.
They should only be clamped, and all plumbing connections should be double clamped. Hose should be rated for sanitation...if you use white, it should be flexible PVC schedule 148. It will be marked "potable water/sanitation." Anything else may not be rated for below waterline connection and/or is more susceptible to odor permeation.
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Doug T.
Sealant - just say NO!
Gah!!! Spent four hours on Sat fighting a Whale Gusher bilge pump that was inoperative and needed to be serviced. The hoses were installed with some kind of adhesive or sealant and so were IMPOSSIBLE to remove. I had to cut them off and will have to replace the damn things. For the sake of the next owner (or possibly yourself), please don't use anything on your hoses but hose clamps!!!!
Gah!!! Spent four hours on Sat fighting a Whale Gusher bilge pump that was inoperative and needed to be serviced. The hoses were installed with some kind of adhesive or sealant and so were IMPOSSIBLE to remove. I had to cut them off and will have to replace the damn things. For the sake of the next owner (or possibly yourself), please don't use anything on your hoses but hose clamps!!!!
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Jim WIllis
The boat builder used sealant!
I think that the guiy at W.Marine (Ugh!) did sell me the right white hose. The boat builder (Capital Yachts) used some sort of sealant (white, but not 5200) on all water hoses. What hard can silicone sealant do except to fill microscopic voids? It can't damage the hose. On auto and boat exhausts (including that thick rubber hose) I always use copper silicone to prevent small fume leacks. Silicone adhesive (becuase it uses Silicon (Si) instead of carbon based structure is closely related to glass and is VERY heat resistant. I will double clamp everything with new clampss as I noticed some of the "stainless" clamps rusting. Thanks Peggy - call me sometime for some commercial-related chat! Jim W
I think that the guiy at W.Marine (Ugh!) did sell me the right white hose. The boat builder (Capital Yachts) used some sort of sealant (white, but not 5200) on all water hoses. What hard can silicone sealant do except to fill microscopic voids? It can't damage the hose. On auto and boat exhausts (including that thick rubber hose) I always use copper silicone to prevent small fume leacks. Silicone adhesive (becuase it uses Silicon (Si) instead of carbon based structure is closely related to glass and is VERY heat resistant. I will double clamp everything with new clampss as I noticed some of the "stainless" clamps rusting. Thanks Peggy - call me sometime for some commercial-related chat! Jim W
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Well, he shouldn't have...
ABYC standards call for no sealant on any hose connections--water, fuel, or waste--only double clamping. As you noted, silicone doesn't actually seal, it only fills space...but it does dry out, crumble and fall out. But if the hose is the right size for the fitting, the fit will be so tight that the hose has to be warmed and lubricated to get it onto the fitting...and nothing that fits THAT tight has any spaces to fill. PVC cement, 5200 and other products can make it impossible to remove a hose--and eventually ALL hoses must be replaced--without destroying the hose barb, which is many cases is integral to a tank or other equipment. So at best, sealant is a waste of money...at worst, it's downright destructive. The right way to do it is: double clamp, with the screws on opposing sides of the hose. If you haven't already, Jim, I suggest you read the articles "Replacing Hoses" and "Installing a Head and Holding Tank" in the HM forum reference library before beginning any work. They include tips that will make the job a little easier.
ABYC standards call for no sealant on any hose connections--water, fuel, or waste--only double clamping. As you noted, silicone doesn't actually seal, it only fills space...but it does dry out, crumble and fall out. But if the hose is the right size for the fitting, the fit will be so tight that the hose has to be warmed and lubricated to get it onto the fitting...and nothing that fits THAT tight has any spaces to fill. PVC cement, 5200 and other products can make it impossible to remove a hose--and eventually ALL hoses must be replaced--without destroying the hose barb, which is many cases is integral to a tank or other equipment. So at best, sealant is a waste of money...at worst, it's downright destructive. The right way to do it is: double clamp, with the screws on opposing sides of the hose. If you haven't already, Jim, I suggest you read the articles "Replacing Hoses" and "Installing a Head and Holding Tank" in the HM forum reference library before beginning any work. They include tips that will make the job a little easier.
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