Seacocks

[bigkat22]

New Question:

I am getting ready to have my 30' 1975 Hunter hauled and paint the bottom. While it is out, what other things should I do to the boat?

A related question - the boat has a 4 cyl. Universal gas engine that is original equipment. When trying to start it recently I found that there appears to be a leak in a hose that run across the engine compartment at the rear of the engine. When I attempt to start the motor water sprays onto the electrical system...not a good situation...I am trying to find the leak and also need to know what the function of each flexible hose might be...

Thanks!

MDA

 

[Ed Schenck]

Well unless you had them upgraded they are not seacocks. What was original were gate valves(bronze faucets) on 1/2" thru-hulls. And therein lies a large problem, you cannot buy seacocks for 1/2" thru-hulls. What I did was add a bronze elbow and nipple. To that I added a bronze ball-valve, the quarter turn variety. Since then I have replaced the engine thru-hull with 3/4" and put a real seacock on that. My head water is still the above mentioned ball-valve.

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

Put in Forespar Marelon ones and have done with it. MD, those aren't seacocks, they are hunks of brass that were ready to be recycled about 25 years ago. I can't believe they still appear useful.

You'll hear me constantly beating a drum for Marelon ones around these boards. That's because they're simply the best thing ever. If you have any particular questions about them, do ask. I've yet to find a better alternative; and, no; I don't get paid by Forespar to say that!

Many congratulations on acquiring a '75 H30. Are you sure it's only #6? The boat went into production in about March 1974. They built one a day after that (about 250/year). Yours is probably #6 for the given build cycle (the cycle being whatever month your HIN says). If I knew your whole HIN I could better tell you.

How is your mast step, compression post, and deck core around the mast? This is a big problem area for H30s, especially the earliest ones. Unfortunately it's not the sort of problem that admits leaving it go. If the deck is flexing, it's wet in there. Continuing to sail the boat with a soggy deck under the mast (and, yes; you can keep tightening the turnbuckles for a while) will squeeze that water farther and farther down the cabintop and sides till everything's wet. If you have any questions about that, you can search these boards for where I've answered it or just ask me here or in an e-mail.

 

[bigkat22]

Thanks for the information! I will forward you the complete HIN once the weather warms up.

 

[bigkat22]

Your description is accurate...I mis-stated the current design...I was surprised to find "faucet-type" cut offs. I have replaced the head with a self-contained unit. Thanks!

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

Ed, I hope you get those ball valves changed soon. Even the lever-type is better than a ball valve.

Not long ago Forespar streamlined the Marelon seacocks range to include really only three sizes (I think): 1-1/2 to 2", 1 to 1-1/4", and smaller. The smaller one is really only about 1/2" (maybe 9/16") clear inside. They use a variety of tailpieces to adapt these to other hose sizes. I think this is a cheesy way out (the 1-1/8" ones are really terrible) but I'm sure it's cheaper for them and their reliability hasn't changed.

The only thing on a boat that's 1/2" that I can possibly think of is a lav-sink drain. Everything else can or should be 3/4", at least through the hull. Once above the seacock, anything can be adapted to anything. I was the guy who specified 3" exhaust outlets on the C44, one for the engine exhaust and one for the generator that was adapted, inside, down to 2", so they looked symmetrical. I also specified matching 3/4" stainless-steel ones on the speedboats though one was only the jet-drive's pee-hole. It looks better and it's inconsequential mechanically.

I would advocate uprating all old seacocks to Marelon ASAP. They're not that expensive and they're more reliable than bronze (and way cheaper).

By the way I currently have very nice solid-fiberglass backing plates listed on eBay; so don't be afraid of drilling new holes and doing an installation 'from new'. It's not hard and I provide directions

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

bigkat: yeah; they are no good. That type should not have been used at all. It's another case of what I always say (#theboatbuilderisnotyourfriend).

The self-contained unit is fine, if you don't mind carrying poop ashore from time to time. Just please do not be like my poor boat's PO who, upon removing the marine toilet, plugged up the old through-hulls by pouring two-part foam down the cut-off hoses!