Seacocks for a 1983 H34

[CheeseDiaper]

I acquired a poor neglected H34 which seems that it's been zinc-less for nearly 10 years. My sea-cocks are crumbling and falling apart. I'm looking to haul out before the winter hits. Anybody know the size I need for the 5 sea-cocks on this 1983 H34. Zinc sizes and locations. Are the thru-hulls flush or rounded? Size of the thru-hulls? Any other relevant info to brace myself for this haul out.

Ryan

 

[Alan]

As I recall on my '83 H34 it did not have factory installed seacocks. Instead it had gate valves that were attached to the thru hulls. This was an extraordinarily bad idea. Gate valves are notorious leakers and could easily be responsible for sinking a boat.

 

[Ed Schenck]

All of the Hunters before the H34 had 1/2" thru-hulls with gate valves. As Allen said, not good. I expect the H34 is the same. Problem is that I don't think you will find seacocks smaller than 3/4". I replaced my engine water thru-hull with a 3/4" thru-hull and a seacock. My head thru-hull is original bronze 1/2" with a 90-degree elbow. With that I can connect a good bronze ball-valve. Ball-valves are OK if you can get enough threads. But you are installing a tapered thread(NPT) onto a straight thread. With the elbow I was able to get several threads and the male end is tapered to match the ball-valve. Been like that for ten years but I still want to replace with 3/4" and a seacock.

 

[kloudie1]

Yup, My 34 had gate valves too. The previous owner had those changed out to proper seacocks before I got the boat. Not sure about the sizes, Ryan.. On my boat, I think the sink, the lavatory, and the holding tank pump out are all 1 1/2" .. They aren't flush. The head intake and the raw water for the engine are the 3/4" ones. I have one more 3/4" for seawater to the sink foot pump and to the air conditioner.
The engine water intake has the proper slotted blister over it, and I think the hull fitting may be flush to accomodate that slotted strainer.

 

[Rick Sylvester]

Don't screw around.

Good advice here. Your boat probably has never had a real seacock in it. Haul out, knock out every single through-hull you've got. Cut 'em in half with a dremel and just get them out.

Spend around $500 and build true, safe, reliable seacocks from quality bronze. I went with Groco and their modular flanged adapter set-up. Mainesail has some great how-to stuff on his web site. I don't have it but he's got a bunch of stuff there. It's good. I used his carriage-bolts-cut-into-studs-threaded-into-a-fiberglass-backplate method for my latest batch of through-hull upgrades last summer. Worked great. I highly recommend it.

Oh, and I wouldn't even bother with looking for a 1/2" valve (if they make one.) Just build a 3/4" and reduce after. The valve will handle a larger obstruction and you can disassemble downstream of a closed valve for cleaning whenever you need anyway.

Do it right.

 

[Mark Ferrick]

Bronze vs Marelon

What is the general consensus here. Rick says don't screw around, use bronze. Is that the general view?
If Bronze, Which I am leaning towards, what about bonding to your electrical system? What is the current best practice?
And those white plastic thru-hulls? Any use for them? I have them for the cockpit drain and bilge pump, Should I change them out while doing the rest?
And finally, should I get new ones, if use my old bronze ones if they look good. They are probably as old as the boat ( 35 ). Why take a change, I guess.

So what do you folks think?