Sanitize/Clean

jmczzz

.
Mar 31, 2013
515
O'Day 26 CB New Orleans
I am refitting a new to me O'Day 26 CB. I would appreciate any info on what to use or how to sanitize, disinfect, and clean the onboard fresh water tank. It holds 20 gals and is now empty except for existing residual water in the bottom and in some hose traps.
thank you, jimmy
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,519
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
While I’m sure someone here can give you the chlorination recipe traditionally recommended for potable water tanks and hoses, there is really no way to ensure efficacy absent testing the water after treatment for a variety of contaminants, many of which resist chlorine disinfection. Old tanks left us-used for a prolonged period with residual water are the most difficult case. Even simple molds and common cryptosporidium are not amenable to typical disinfection methods.

all of which suggests it’s a ‘crap shoot’ to consume boat tank water.
 
Jan 11, 2014
13,133
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
When we cleaned our tanks last year we used a pressure washer and some fittings that allowed it reach inside of the tanks. The tanks were then flushed and shocked with bleach.

We use a filter when filling the tank and filter it again when used for drinking water with a Brita filter. The two filters will remove foul tastes and many chemicals.

The other source of issues is the hoses in the system. And last but not least is the o-ring on the fill cap. Replace it. These break down and will allow seawater and rainwater to enter.

Practical Sailor has several articles on tank cleaning and filtering water.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,497
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
I cut a whole on top and added an inspection plate. Only way I know to get a brush in there and scrub the black residue. Can also wet vac remaining liquid from the hole. When done I added a CBC10 cartridge filter after the water pump. I also filter water before it goes into the tank. Lastly, I added a Shuflo screened filter on the vent side of the tank to keep critters out. Most of this I picked up in Practical Sailor magazine. None of this cost much.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,974
- - LIttle Rock
Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.”
There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles (which includes boats). The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.

1. For a 20 gal tank, prepare a solution using 1 pint (16 oz or 200 ml) of household bleach in a gallon or two of water. Add that to the tank, then fill the tank completely with water.

2. Open all faucets and let the water drain till what's coming out smells strongly of bleach. Do NOT turn of the water pump...it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines.

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one 1 cup white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by boat's motion (go sailing).

6. Drain the tank and refill with water.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a faucet filter on the galley sink.. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.

To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes first (wash the boat)...the same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want to transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is coming straight from the water main...you'll know when because the water will be a lot cooler.

(I've modified these instructions a bit for use in a small tank. The complete instructions for large tanks (50 gal +) are in my book...you'll also find a version of them here if you search for "Fresh Water Maintenance".)

--Peggie
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,314
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
all of which suggests it’s a ‘crap shoot’ to consume boat tank water.
Couldn't agree with @Don S/V ILLusion more.

We've had the boat 24 years since delivered from the factory. We have always brought fresh driking water from home and stored on the boat, out of the way in large poly carboys which are easy to clean

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Can't be bothered with bugs in the tank and piping and don't want to put bleach in the hot water heater. Tanked potable water is used for everything except drinking.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,974
- - LIttle Rock
I didn't include any mention of the water heater in the instructions for recommissioning his 20 gal tank 'cuz I I didn't think he'd have one on a 26' boat. It's included in the full instructions.

--Peggie
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,750
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
I lean mine in the spring using Peggy’s recipe and let it sit for several hours. Then drain and refill. I do have an inspection port I installed ( but I can only see/reach up to the baffle in the middle of the tank). If I see crap in there, I will wipe it out first.

i add a few capfuls of bleach with each tank fill (30 gallons). It seems to keep the water from going “skunky” in warm weather if I don’t use it very fast. I took out my second 30-gallon tank because I am primarily day sailing, and can’t use 60 gallons fast enough.

Greg
 
Aug 19, 2021
510
Hunter 280 White House Cove Marina
Cleaned my tank earlier this year while replacing my tank sensor. I was surprised at the amount of sand in my tank. That's what they make shopvacs for. Sucked it out through the sensor hole. Installed the new sensor. Treated the tank, using Peggy's instructions.

Good to go.
 
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jmczzz

.
Mar 31, 2013
515
O'Day 26 CB New Orleans
I certainly appreciate all this input. New question; I do not have an electric water pump just the manual type foot on the galley sink and hand on the vanity. Do I make the mixed solution and manually pump it out? Would half (10 gallons) pumped thru each be adequate? I have separate drinking water 5-gallon jugs with a hand pump. I carry 2.
 
May 17, 2004
5,765
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
I also use Peggie’s instructions once per year when commissioning the system, and have no problems for the rest of the season after that. The first year we had the boat I didn’t do any cleaning and we had some smell in the hot water side. I used Peggie’s formula and it cleaned it right up. I don’t add bleach on regular tank fills.
 
Jan 11, 2014
13,133
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I certainly appreciate all this input. New question; I do not have an electric water pump just the manual type foot on the galley sink and hand on the vanity. Do I make the mixed solution and manually pump it out? Would half (10 gallons) pumped thru each be adequate? I have separate drinking water 5-gallon jugs with a hand pump. I carry 2.
The tank will need to be filled and allowed to slosh around the top of the tank otherwise only the bottom half of the tank will be clean.

To avoid pumping forever to empty the tank you could get a long clean hose and siphon the water out or get a cheap drill pump and pump it out.

I bought a cheap 12v diaphragm pump that I use to drain the hot water tank. Something like that would work too.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,974
- - LIttle Rock
Do I make the mixed solution and manually pump it out?

First time I've run into someone who wants to recommission a water tank but doesn't have an electric water pump so I'm doing a bit of brainstorming here...When you fill up the tank and pump water out, does it maintain prime for at least an hour or two? Would overfilling the tank force the solution into the line? 'Cuz it's important to keep the solution in the line.

--Peggie
 
Aug 19, 2021
510
Hunter 280 White House Cove Marina
I certainly appreciate all this input. New question; I do not have an electric water pump just the manual type foot on the galley sink and hand on the vanity. Do I make the mixed solution and manually pump it out? Would half (10 gallons) pumped thru each be adequate? I have separate drinking water 5-gallon jugs with a hand pump. I carry 2.
What you have is a handwashing station or sink. Like they have in a port a john. I would go as far as saying you have a non-potable water system that is not meant for drinking.