I still like Trident 101/102, but only for long straight runs 'cuz it doesn't permeate with odor, but it's as stiff as an ironing board, making it impractical to use for runs with a lot of bends. For those, I'd go with Raritan SaniFlex RaritanSaniFlex hose. It's also proven to be as resistant to odor permeation as Trident 101/102, but it's so flexible that it can be bent like a hairpin without kinking....so it's MUCH easier to use. It's a little more expensive than 101/102, but worth the extra dollar or two.Trident 101, white, like Peggy recommends. I think there’s another type she likesl that is more flexible, but costs more.
We did that also. Real easy job, and other than a moment of panic when starting to drill the hole in the hull, very worthwhile.....
And btw...as long as you're replacing hoses, this would be a great time to reroute the vent line to a thru-hull and "upgrade" it to a 1" line and open thru-hull. A li'l gadget called the Uniseal UNISEAL makes installing a new vent fitting in the tank a fairly easy job.
--Peggie
I'd use a male-male "hose mender" (available and inexpensive from any decent marine store or the plumbing department in any decent hardware store....cut the ends off both the old hose and the new as clean and straight as possible...you want them to form a smooth unbroken surface when butted tightly together. Warm the hoses to put 'em on the fitting...use a little Dawn or better yet, K-Y to lube both the insides of the hose ...and use a little of any sealant you like, even 5200, to "glue" the hose to fitting. Hose clamps--even cable ties--can get hung up,duct tape won't hold against a strong pull...and the last thing you want is for the hoses to come apart in an inaccessible location. When you've pulled the new hose all the way through, cut it off the end of the fitting and throw that away with the old hose."Peggy recommends a short coupling to do that, but we didn’t have one and the cable ties worked fine for us." What coupling do you recommend Peggy? Thanks..
There’s a PVC pipe/conduit glassed to the hull(?) that runs from the head (behind and to the left of the toilet) to the bulkhead just forward of the tank. Some of the earlier threads have pictures showing it. The waste hose “slides” thru it.Wow... thanks all. What/where is the PVC pipe Jese mentioned? I haven't "dug" into it yet. I replaced the hoses on my 1985 O'Day 31 and that wasn't much fun either. Does anyone have a diagram of the system?
Mine is setup the same.There’s a PVC pipe/conduit glassed to the hull(?) that runs from the head (behind and to the left of the toilet) to the bulkhead just forward of the tank. Some of the earlier threads have pictures showing it. The waste hose “slides” thru it.
As I reread the posts, it seems that the fitting for the waste hose may be towards the bottom, or towards the top of the tank. Ours was at the top, and that may have made it much easier to replace the hose. Also, sliding the tank aft helped a lot. One picture showed it at the bottom, and required two 90 degree ells to connect!
The perfect woman. Comparing things to ironing boards....but it's as stiff as an ironing board...
Not what I would do on my boat. Boat builders use hose over PVC for a reason. Boats move, shake, twist, etc. and PVC doesn't like that. PVC is actually quite brittle. Maybe I would use it for a long, straight run if I could isolate the ends with hose but it doesn't seem worth the risk to me.My strong suggestion is to use PVC pipe instead of hose. Any hose, even the 101 will permeate if there is waste sitting in it and it is not possible to avoid this on the hose from the tank to the throughull. Use 1 1/4" PVC pipe and couple it to the tank and the throughull with thick rubber couplings. Not to mention that PVC pipe is much easier to run than hose. No smell, same as at home.
I kept the Trident 101 hose from the bowl to the tank, it does not stink and it is typically well flushed. One day I will get to it.