We appear to have reached the point where our main sanitation hose has become permeated. Has anyone replaced this hose and, if so, are there any caveats to be aware of?
Doug.
Doug.
Sanitation hose replacement...
- Thread starter Doug/Karen
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We did ours, hope these hints help:
You need about 17 feet of hose-a much longer run than any of the head mfrs recommend, but that's what it is. Have some hose lube or dishwashing soap and a heat gun handy to get the hose on the fittings-use the heat gun very carefully if you need to on the install. I found a 1 1/2" hose coupler at WM and it took 2 of us to work the hose through.
Step 1-flush lots of cleaner (we use CP) and water through the old hoseand then put the head in the dry postion and pump lots of air through.
Step 2-disconnect the hose from the head and use the coupler and some duct tape to connect the new hose to the old. we ran the new hose up through the head portlight onto the deck, keep it high.
Step 3-disconnect the hose at the tank and work the old hose up through the stern locker-tape over the end with duct tape. Keep pushing at the head end and pulling on the tank end. It helps if you have the aft cabin clear so you can reach into the portside storage areas under the bunk and help the hose along.
Step 4-once you get the end of the new hose to the head, connect it-use lube and if needed a little heat, and clamp.
step 5-take off the duct tape and coupler off and tape over the end of the old hose.Fit the tank end onto the tank and clamp. If you're careful, you should be able to do this without any spills or smells. the only waste was the coupler for a couple of bucks.
You need about 17 feet of hose-a much longer run than any of the head mfrs recommend, but that's what it is. Have some hose lube or dishwashing soap and a heat gun handy to get the hose on the fittings-use the heat gun very carefully if you need to on the install. I found a 1 1/2" hose coupler at WM and it took 2 of us to work the hose through.
Step 1-flush lots of cleaner (we use CP) and water through the old hoseand then put the head in the dry postion and pump lots of air through.
Step 2-disconnect the hose from the head and use the coupler and some duct tape to connect the new hose to the old. we ran the new hose up through the head portlight onto the deck, keep it high.
Step 3-disconnect the hose at the tank and work the old hose up through the stern locker-tape over the end with duct tape. Keep pushing at the head end and pulling on the tank end. It helps if you have the aft cabin clear so you can reach into the portside storage areas under the bunk and help the hose along.
Step 4-once you get the end of the new hose to the head, connect it-use lube and if needed a little heat, and clamp.
step 5-take off the duct tape and coupler off and tape over the end of the old hose.Fit the tank end onto the tank and clamp. If you're careful, you should be able to do this without any spills or smells. the only waste was the coupler for a couple of bucks.
As long as you're gonna replace one hose, replace 'em all. Use Trident 101 or 102 for 1" and 1.5"... the sbo.com online store has it for a VERY good price! Use Trident or Shields #148 for vent line and toilet intake.
[FONT="]1.[FONT="] [/FONT][/FONT][FONT="]Measure the amount of new hose you’ll need and buy it (add at least one extra foot as a safety margin). Use sanitation hose throughout the entire system, including the toilet intake and tank vent.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]2.[FONT="] [/FONT][/FONT][FONT="]Pump out and rinse out the holding tank VERY thoroughly. Adding Raritan C.P. to the rinse will remove most of the odor. Rinse out the entire system—the head, any macerators or manual pumps, and the hose VERY thoroughly—with lots and lots of clean water, followed by about a gallon of undiluted white vinegar. (Vinegar is highly destructive to rubber and neoprene, so make sure to rinse the vinegar completely out of the toilet unless rebuilding the toilet is included in this project). If the hoses REALLY stink, it helps to smear a healthy glob of Vicks Salve under your nose before you start; a cool day also helps. [/FONT]
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[FONT="]3. Map out your entire plan and determine solutions to all problems and obstacles before you remove a single hose.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]Now you’re ready to start work:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Remove the highest hose connection first to minimize drips, and stick plugs (available from any hardware store) in the ends of the hose. Work on only one hose at a time...and take each section of hose all the way off the boat as soon as you get it loose (your dockmates may insist you take it all the way off the dock!). When taking a hose off a fitting, have a pan (disposable aluminum pans are good for this) under the connection to catch the drainage. Have lots of rags handy to mop up what misses the pan. [/FONT]
[FONT="]Removing hoses becomes much easier if you’ll heat them with a blow dryer to soften them up before trying to work them off. Unless you want to also replace all the fittings, do not pry them off with a screwdriver or saw them off...the screwdriver blade will dimple the fitting, the saw will cut into it, and the new hose won’t seal. [/FONT]
[FONT="]It’s often much easier to pull new hose through inaccessible places if you connect it to the old hose and pull the new through as you pull the old out. Use a male-to male connector...use PVC cement to "glue" both hose ends onto it. Do not use hose clamps or duct tape...hose clamps can get caught in an inaccessible place, duct tape will not keep the hose on the connector if you have to pull hard. Be sure to butt the ends of the hose tightly together to create the smoothest uninterrupted surface possible. After you’ve pulled it through, cut the new hose cleanly behind the connector. [/FONT]
[FONT="]To put the new hose onto fittings, WARM the hose with a blow dryer (use a heat gun only if you really know what you’re doing with one) to soften it. Be careful, and be patientl! You only want to soften the hose enough to slide it onto a fitting; overheating hose can damage it, causing collapse or tearing. Smear a little dish soap (or even better, K-Y surgical jelly) on the inside of the hose and the outside of the fitting to lubricate the connection. Don’t use Vaseline or any grease...and don’t use ANY cement or sealant...only Teflon tape on the threaded end of fittings. Double clamp all the hose connections.[/FONT]
[FONT="]NEVER heat a hose to make it bend tighter than it wants to bend willingly! Doing so will damage the hose and/or result in a kink. Instead, break the hose and use an inline radius fitting.
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[FONT="]Plastic tank fittings are NPT (National Pipe Thread) standard, which are slightly (so slightly that it’s not noticeable to the naked eye in such a short piece) tapered. They’re also self-sealing. So when threading fittings into the tank, tighten only one turn past “hand tight,” plus enough to aim an elbow in the direction needed, no more. Over-tightening can result in a cracked tank. [/FONT][FONT="][/FONT]
Peggie
Hi I have a question as is it good to use PVC on some straight runs and PVC
elbo's on turns.
I thought some said the PVC will not get permeated and last much longer.
Nick
Hi I have a question as is it good to use PVC on some straight runs and PVC
elbo's on turns.
I thought some said the PVC will not get permeated and last much longer.
Nick
Weeelllll....
Hard pvc is only recommended for LONG straight runs, 'cuz you'd still have to "soft couple" the hard pipe to anything rigid--toilet, tank, y-valve, thru-hlull, macerator, etc-- with enough hose to provide shock absorption and flex...and that's a LOT of unions by itself...in an installation that has a lot of bends and elbows, it's too many.
Hard pipe may be a lot cheaper, and it IS odor impermeable...but Trident 101/102 has proven itself to be just as impermeable...there has yet to be a single reported case of odor permeation failure in the nearly 15 years it's been on the market. And it's a lot easier to bend.
Hard pvc is only recommended for LONG straight runs, 'cuz you'd still have to "soft couple" the hard pipe to anything rigid--toilet, tank, y-valve, thru-hlull, macerator, etc-- with enough hose to provide shock absorption and flex...and that's a LOT of unions by itself...in an installation that has a lot of bends and elbows, it's too many.
Hard pipe may be a lot cheaper, and it IS odor impermeable...but Trident 101/102 has proven itself to be just as impermeable...there has yet to be a single reported case of odor permeation failure in the nearly 15 years it's been on the market. And it's a lot easier to bend.
Thanks Peggie
I have a 2007 Hunter and no problems yet but I do have a long section of hose under the rear berth that makes a 90 degree turn in stern to the tank
that is a tight turn and could have used more hose for a wider turn instead of so tight,it looks like it is not round at the turn.
Is it OK to use PVC just for the long straight run and a 90 or 45 elbo for that one turn at the rear to the tank.
Nick
I have a 2007 Hunter and no problems yet but I do have a long section of hose under the rear berth that makes a 90 degree turn in stern to the tank
that is a tight turn and could have used more hose for a wider turn instead of so tight,it looks like it is not round at the turn.
Is it OK to use PVC just for the long straight run and a 90 or 45 elbo for that one turn at the rear to the tank.
Nick
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