I am repalcing the hand rails on my hunter 23 with new teak. I am using ZSPAR varnish. They recomend that after each coat. I wait 24hrs and sand with 220. My question is: Do I have to sand between each coat of varnish? I am a perfectionist but, what a pain. And, I need to hurry it up because the hatch is off the boat because I am doing the pin baords too! What should I do?
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sand between coats
you need to sand in between coats or the varnish will peel as it will not have a surface to adhere to. Good Luck!
you need to sand in between coats or the varnish will peel as it will not have a surface to adhere to. Good Luck!
No
If you keep your coats thin, you can sand every other coat. Also - many of my friends (and I) recommend cutting the initial 3 coats with 50 percent paint thinner. You can thin the next couple of coats with only 25 percent thinner, and finish with full strength varnish. You will need to use much greater care with the full strenght varnish. Good luck though - there is nothing like a well varnished piece of wood. Good to see you are using the "good stuff" rather than other products. Rob
If you keep your coats thin, you can sand every other coat. Also - many of my friends (and I) recommend cutting the initial 3 coats with 50 percent paint thinner. You can thin the next couple of coats with only 25 percent thinner, and finish with full strength varnish. You will need to use much greater care with the full strenght varnish. Good luck though - there is nothing like a well varnished piece of wood. Good to see you are using the "good stuff" rather than other products. Rob
Sand Lightly
Light sanding between coats is easy, takes very little time, and it removes those little dust, lint, and insect specks that invariably occur after varnishing. If they aren't sanded they tend to accumulate more varnish and thereby enlarge. Also need to dust off after sanding with clean cloth. Dick
Light sanding between coats is easy, takes very little time, and it removes those little dust, lint, and insect specks that invariably occur after varnishing. If they aren't sanded they tend to accumulate more varnish and thereby enlarge. Also need to dust off after sanding with clean cloth. Dick
What I recommend!
Tony: Everyone has given you good advice on how to apply the varnish. My advice is to cover it up when ever you are NOT using the boat. Varnish that is left exposed to the elements will probably not last one season. Order some covers for your rails and you can admire your varnish job for a couple of seasons. Even with a cover you should plan on touching it up at least once (maybe twice) each season. You have some farily intense sun down there and it will break down your varnish in no time at all.
Tony: Everyone has given you good advice on how to apply the varnish. My advice is to cover it up when ever you are NOT using the boat. Varnish that is left exposed to the elements will probably not last one season. Order some covers for your rails and you can admire your varnish job for a couple of seasons. Even with a cover you should plan on touching it up at least once (maybe twice) each season. You have some farily intense sun down there and it will break down your varnish in no time at all.
Yes
There are products on the market that don't require sanding between coats but standard varnish does. Probably not as much with the first thinned coats but when you're building with straight varnish, it's a must. LaDonna
There are products on the market that don't require sanding between coats but standard varnish does. Probably not as much with the first thinned coats but when you're building with straight varnish, it's a must. LaDonna
teak
IF you were a perfectionist you never ever use varnish. you would use teak cleaner after sanding, then rinse and let dry, then teak brightener and wash and let dry then teak oil!!
IF you were a perfectionist you never ever use varnish. you would use teak cleaner after sanding, then rinse and let dry, then teak brightener and wash and let dry then teak oil!!
New Teak has fibers sticking up
I used Cetol on my new companionway doors. I applied like french polish with a paper towel swab. However, I still needed to wet sand because of the fibers sticking up. You may consider using Armada (better than cetol). Jim Willis
I used Cetol on my new companionway doors. I applied like french polish with a paper towel swab. However, I still needed to wet sand because of the fibers sticking up. You may consider using Armada (better than cetol). Jim Willis
Sand between all 12 coats
You've got to sand between coats. My grandfather was a shipwright and cabinet maker and he taught me about finishes. Start of with a "spit coat" of thinned spar varnish, even two (50/50 varnish and thinner). Then start building coats. I wet sand with at least 220 to get imperfections out and to give the next coat something to adhere to. The last couple of coats I use 400 grit between. For exterior wood I don't even THINK about stopping until I have at least 8 coats, 12 is better. With that many coats on, the final finish looks like glass. I've been accused by friends of "putting the hyphen in anal-retentive", but they are the same people who compliment me on the appearance of my wood. Properly applied, varnish is very, very tough. There is some maintainance involved, but I think it is worth it. Cetol and similar products promise "easy, no fuss finishes" but I happen to think that while it may be easy, Cetol lacks the beauty of varnish. I think it makes the wood look muddy. Keep in mind as well, that you must start with a truly smooth surface. I use McCloskey Man 'O War, but Z-Spar, Epifanes, etc. are all good. I get my Man 'O War at OSH (Orchard Supply Hardware) and pay about $32.00 a gallon. The local chandlery gets $18.00 a quart for it. Give varnish a try, I think you'll find it worth the extra work.
You've got to sand between coats. My grandfather was a shipwright and cabinet maker and he taught me about finishes. Start of with a "spit coat" of thinned spar varnish, even two (50/50 varnish and thinner). Then start building coats. I wet sand with at least 220 to get imperfections out and to give the next coat something to adhere to. The last couple of coats I use 400 grit between. For exterior wood I don't even THINK about stopping until I have at least 8 coats, 12 is better. With that many coats on, the final finish looks like glass. I've been accused by friends of "putting the hyphen in anal-retentive", but they are the same people who compliment me on the appearance of my wood. Properly applied, varnish is very, very tough. There is some maintainance involved, but I think it is worth it. Cetol and similar products promise "easy, no fuss finishes" but I happen to think that while it may be easy, Cetol lacks the beauty of varnish. I think it makes the wood look muddy. Keep in mind as well, that you must start with a truly smooth surface. I use McCloskey Man 'O War, but Z-Spar, Epifanes, etc. are all good. I get my Man 'O War at OSH (Orchard Supply Hardware) and pay about $32.00 a gallon. The local chandlery gets $18.00 a quart for it. Give varnish a try, I think you'll find it worth the extra work.
Suggest Reading the Instructions..
.. that's a novel idea! (my wife says especially for someone with male genes). Each manufacturer has a slightly different spin on how to apply their varnish. They also say to use their thinners and brushing liquids and I'd really recommend following their advice. Yea, hardware store thinner might work, but, considering all the work required to do a good job I don't like to take the chance. Also, if you ever have a problem the store/manufacturer will want to know exactly what you did/used and if it's against the directions, well, you just lost. Couple more suggestions: 1) Before application do a wipe down per instructions (with the recommended solution) and 2) filter the varnish into a clean container. Never put the brush into the can because you'll be putting dirt into it. 3)Don't shake the can because it entraps air bubbles. Visit the Z-spar link below. Varnished wood is a thing of beauty and it's worth the effort.
.. that's a novel idea! (my wife says especially for someone with male genes). Each manufacturer has a slightly different spin on how to apply their varnish. They also say to use their thinners and brushing liquids and I'd really recommend following their advice. Yea, hardware store thinner might work, but, considering all the work required to do a good job I don't like to take the chance. Also, if you ever have a problem the store/manufacturer will want to know exactly what you did/used and if it's against the directions, well, you just lost. Couple more suggestions: 1) Before application do a wipe down per instructions (with the recommended solution) and 2) filter the varnish into a clean container. Never put the brush into the can because you'll be putting dirt into it. 3)Don't shake the can because it entraps air bubbles. Visit the Z-spar link below. Varnished wood is a thing of beauty and it's worth the effort.
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