I just painted my cockpit by brush and have a few runs can I sand them out with 1500 grit paper and then wax ?
Sanding Paint
- Thread starter Lost Parent
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Standard answer: It depends.
1,500 would take a while depending on the paint. I'd wet sand it with coarser paper and work down to finer paper. That all assumes the paint has no metallic material in it. If it doesn't look right while wet sanding it will need re-coated. I certainly wouldn't wax it until I was sure I wasn't going to re-paint that area.
Ken
1,500 would take a while depending on the paint. I'd wet sand it with coarser paper and work down to finer paper. That all assumes the paint has no metallic material in it. If it doesn't look right while wet sanding it will need re-coated. I certainly wouldn't wax it until I was sure I wasn't going to re-paint that area.
Ken
Use a run file to cut off the high paint then lightly sand and buff as needed. If you try to sand you end up with thin paint around the run. With the file you only remove the high paint. you can get these anyplace that sells paints to body shops
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/runnib.aspx
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/runnib.aspx
Thanks Capt. Wayne, That's what I love about this sight, there is always something new to learn.
using the nib file, as posted by Sailvayu, is the smoothest and fastest way to cut the sags/runs from the paint without sanding away too much. its quick and easier to control than sand paper....
then wet sand very little and lightly with the 1500grit paper.... wax as normal....
then wet sand very little and lightly with the 1500grit paper.... wax as normal....
I don' t think you would want to start out with 1500 grit. Even 220, which is what is generally used between finish coats is going to take forever. Even with a long flatboard you will take some time. It might be advisable to start with 220, then 400, then 600. Something like 1500 would generally be used as the final pass on a piece of fine furniture.
I'd wait longer than a week. I have painted houses for 20+ years. I know all the paints I've used don't fully cure for between 30 and 60 days depending on the moisture in the air. Two part paints are not much different. They need to off gas. Some need UV light to cure properly too.
Read the can. Call the 800# on the can and ask when you can sand.
As for getting the runs down almost level with the rest of the paint I use a sharp scraper or a safety razor blade. Cut it off as flush as you can now and wait for it to cure enough to sand and paint the whole surface again.
NOTE. Painting the whole surface sounds like it's allot. It's not. Just paint up to transition lines. (The edges of the flat surface you have the runs on.) If you have a good/ thick enough coat on the rest of the paint job you will never see the transition lines.
Think of painting one side of a cube. That's the idea. You just do what needs done. That one area/side. Same as your deck.
You can make your own transition lines too. Look at the possible spots you can stop and assess. (IE. The painted area narrows near a piece of deck hardware. Use the visual hard line and transfer it form the hardware to make your transition line on the deck.)
Read the can. Call the 800# on the can and ask when you can sand.
As for getting the runs down almost level with the rest of the paint I use a sharp scraper or a safety razor blade. Cut it off as flush as you can now and wait for it to cure enough to sand and paint the whole surface again.
NOTE. Painting the whole surface sounds like it's allot. It's not. Just paint up to transition lines. (The edges of the flat surface you have the runs on.) If you have a good/ thick enough coat on the rest of the paint job you will never see the transition lines.
Think of painting one side of a cube. That's the idea. You just do what needs done. That one area/side. Same as your deck.
You can make your own transition lines too. Look at the possible spots you can stop and assess. (IE. The painted area narrows near a piece of deck hardware. Use the visual hard line and transfer it form the hardware to make your transition line on the deck.)
what kind of paint did you use ....was it a 2 part urethane with a hardener if so it should tell you on the specs about when you can sand....the one i used was good for re coat 24 hours and after that it need to be sanded lightly with a fine grit paper to insure a bond......
regards
woody
I agree with just about everyone's replies here.
Before going with any of the suggestions I think you need to share what type of paint was used and how extensive the runs are.
The nib files work great but it might be difficult to use them on a whole line of runs.
Also, for a nib file to work best, the paint needs to be pretty hard or you just start to gum things up.
Nothing is going to work well unless the paint is hard, really hard.
Unless it was 2 part, I would wait at a minimum of 2 weeks, depending on how thick the paint was applied. But like Finding41 says, it can really take much longer than you would imagine.
In a inconspicuous place, press the paint with your fingernail. If you can leave any mark or depression at all I would wait longer. Keep in mind the run is the thickest part of the paint and will take the longest to get hard.
If the paint was 1 part, it can feel dry and hard, but under the top surface, it can still be quite soft.
What ever method you use, nib file, wet or dry sandpaper, if the paint is not hard all the way through you'll break through the top layer to the softer paint and have a real mess. Maybe localized, but a mess none the less.
I think the nib file is great for small, very localized runs, like one drip runs here and there.
If it's an area of runs, I would wet sand verrry carefully with a hard pad as a backer. That way you're just hitting the high spots and not the surrounding area. I would start with maybe 400, then 600, then 1000, then maybe 1500. Using water to keep the paper from loading up.
The secret is having the paint really hard, and taking your time. Don't get impatient and start applying pressure and "scrubbing" back and forth.
Go slow and use a very light touch. Stop frequently and check your work. Make sure you're just sanding the high spots.
To do it right will not be a quick process.
The type of paint might give you some more accurate answers, but that's the basics.
Good luck,
rob j
Before going with any of the suggestions I think you need to share what type of paint was used and how extensive the runs are.
The nib files work great but it might be difficult to use them on a whole line of runs.
Also, for a nib file to work best, the paint needs to be pretty hard or you just start to gum things up.
Nothing is going to work well unless the paint is hard, really hard.
Unless it was 2 part, I would wait at a minimum of 2 weeks, depending on how thick the paint was applied. But like Finding41 says, it can really take much longer than you would imagine.
In a inconspicuous place, press the paint with your fingernail. If you can leave any mark or depression at all I would wait longer. Keep in mind the run is the thickest part of the paint and will take the longest to get hard.
If the paint was 1 part, it can feel dry and hard, but under the top surface, it can still be quite soft.
What ever method you use, nib file, wet or dry sandpaper, if the paint is not hard all the way through you'll break through the top layer to the softer paint and have a real mess. Maybe localized, but a mess none the less.
I think the nib file is great for small, very localized runs, like one drip runs here and there.
If it's an area of runs, I would wet sand verrry carefully with a hard pad as a backer. That way you're just hitting the high spots and not the surrounding area. I would start with maybe 400, then 600, then 1000, then maybe 1500. Using water to keep the paper from loading up.
The secret is having the paint really hard, and taking your time. Don't get impatient and start applying pressure and "scrubbing" back and forth.
Go slow and use a very light touch. Stop frequently and check your work. Make sure you're just sanding the high spots.
To do it right will not be a quick process.
The type of paint might give you some more accurate answers, but that's the basics.
Good luck,
rob j
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