What kind or type of sander do you use to take off bottom paint and prepare the bottom surface to be repainted? Is one brand or type of bottom paint better than another one?
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Why do you want to remove it?
Dana: Why do you want to remove the old bottom paint. Normally a good power washing will remove anything that should not be on there and apply the new stuff. If you are trying to get down to gel coat then you may be better off (and healthier in the long run) using a stripper to remove everything.
Dana: Why do you want to remove the old bottom paint. Normally a good power washing will remove anything that should not be on there and apply the new stuff. If you are trying to get down to gel coat then you may be better off (and healthier in the long run) using a stripper to remove everything.
NOTa belt sander
A belt sander is designed to make surfaces flat...not good for a curved boat bottom. Use an orbital sander, preferably an ocillating type. A dust bag attachment will eliminate toxics. Speaking of...use adequate protective gear (goggles, respirator (NOT a cheapo paper mask!), tape your sleeves, etc...). Copper oxide is nasty stuff. As far as your paint, you can get much info from the forum archives. West Marine has good info in their catalog. Find out from local sailors what paint works best in your home waters. Different paints behave differently in different water. You also need to paint according to the type of sailing performance you desire, how often you haul, how much you want to repaint, $$$, etc. Like I said, search the archives for all the straight poop! I hope this helps! Richard H23 "Invictus"
A belt sander is designed to make surfaces flat...not good for a curved boat bottom. Use an orbital sander, preferably an ocillating type. A dust bag attachment will eliminate toxics. Speaking of...use adequate protective gear (goggles, respirator (NOT a cheapo paper mask!), tape your sleeves, etc...). Copper oxide is nasty stuff. As far as your paint, you can get much info from the forum archives. West Marine has good info in their catalog. Find out from local sailors what paint works best in your home waters. Different paints behave differently in different water. You also need to paint according to the type of sailing performance you desire, how often you haul, how much you want to repaint, $$$, etc. Like I said, search the archives for all the straight poop! I hope this helps! Richard H23 "Invictus"
I have had good
results using a random orbit disc sander, mine is a sears, and for limited use works well, but only sears sells the sanding discs that are the 5 hole adhesive type, and the paper is usually out of stock! But that type of sander, has a bag, that can be removed and a vaccum hose can be attached to catch most of the dust. I used a small plastic wet/dry vac to do this. I now use an ablative bottom paint too, and sand only the bare spots wipe down wth a cloth and repaint the waterline and where needed.
results using a random orbit disc sander, mine is a sears, and for limited use works well, but only sears sells the sanding discs that are the 5 hole adhesive type, and the paper is usually out of stock! But that type of sander, has a bag, that can be removed and a vaccum hose can be attached to catch most of the dust. I used a small plastic wet/dry vac to do this. I now use an ablative bottom paint too, and sand only the bare spots wipe down wth a cloth and repaint the waterline and where needed.
Dana, I use drywall sandpaper from Home...
Depot. They also sell a rectangular swivel pad that mounts on a painting pole. The sandpaper is like window screen material. Here is what I do: 1. Pressure wash hull to remove all marine growth. 2. Let dry overnight, then scrape off loose paint. 3. Use sandpaper on pad lightly over entire hull to cut teeth for the new paint to adhere. 4. Use sandpaper to feather edges where loose paint came off. 5. Roll on three coats of WM ablative paint. Save a quart to paint the keel when the boat is on the travel lift before splash. 6. Clean and buff all bright work. Wipe on two heavy coats of Desitin (zinc oxide). Works wonders. 7. Remove knotmeter transducer to clean impeller. 8. Install new zincs. 9. Check rudder for play; adjust if necessary. 10. Clean all through hulls. 11. Replace stuffing box packing material if needed. Ready for splash. The hull should be good for three seasons except for zincs. Terry
Depot. They also sell a rectangular swivel pad that mounts on a painting pole. The sandpaper is like window screen material. Here is what I do: 1. Pressure wash hull to remove all marine growth. 2. Let dry overnight, then scrape off loose paint. 3. Use sandpaper on pad lightly over entire hull to cut teeth for the new paint to adhere. 4. Use sandpaper to feather edges where loose paint came off. 5. Roll on three coats of WM ablative paint. Save a quart to paint the keel when the boat is on the travel lift before splash. 6. Clean and buff all bright work. Wipe on two heavy coats of Desitin (zinc oxide). Works wonders. 7. Remove knotmeter transducer to clean impeller. 8. Install new zincs. 9. Check rudder for play; adjust if necessary. 10. Clean all through hulls. 11. Replace stuffing box packing material if needed. Ready for splash. The hull should be good for three seasons except for zincs. Terry
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