Salt water in engine bilge
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Stuffing box dripping? (as it is supposed to)
The cooling system is cooled by sea water. It comes into the boat, goes through a strainer, then to a sea water pump which pumps the sea water through the heat exchanger , cooling the engine coolant. The water leaves the heat exchanger and gets injected into the exhaust stream which carries it overboard. A leak in any of those components will put sea water into the pan under the engine.
The cooling system is cooled by sea water. It comes into the boat, goes through a strainer, then to a sea water pump which pumps the sea water through the heat exchanger , cooling the engine coolant. The water leaves the heat exchanger and gets injected into the exhaust stream which carries it overboard. A leak in any of those components will put sea water into the pan under the engine.
Normally water from the packing glad would run under the engine pan. This would normally indicate a leak from the raw water side of the engine. Check the packing and see if it is leaking and water is getting into the pan. Otherwise it is probably an engine leak or the vented loop.
I'd check the vented loop (if equipped), the raw water pump shaft seal, raw water hoses, and raw water drains. yes you have all the above except perhaps the vented loop.
Since you did not think you had a raw water cooled engine I'm wondering when was the last time you closed the raw water intake thru-hull or checked the raw water strainer? If you locate the raw water pump on the engine and trace the hoses you will come to the strainer and then the thru-hull. The hoses look like standard water heater hose.
Since you did not think you had a raw water cooled engine I'm wondering when was the last time you closed the raw water intake thru-hull or checked the raw water strainer? If you locate the raw water pump on the engine and trace the hoses you will come to the strainer and then the thru-hull. The hoses look like standard water heater hose.
Dear IanJ.
What do you mean "cooled with its own cooling system?" Diesel marine engines are cooled either by "raw water" in which seawater is circulated through the engine (i.e. sucked up from outside the boat via a through-hull, through the engine, and then usually mixed with exhaust gas) or "closed system," in which seawater is still sucked into the boat, but circulated through a heat transfer system which cools the engine's closed-loop liquid before being mixed with the exhause and being expelled overboard. Either way, outside water is being pumped into the boat, around the engine, and back out. Lots of opportunities for leaks, sometimes very small, sometimes big enough to sink the boat in a few minutes. If you are really so totally ignorant of your boat's basic systems, you might consider staying off the boat (for your own safety) until you have read a book or two or attended a class.
What do you mean "cooled with its own cooling system?" Diesel marine engines are cooled either by "raw water" in which seawater is circulated through the engine (i.e. sucked up from outside the boat via a through-hull, through the engine, and then usually mixed with exhaust gas) or "closed system," in which seawater is still sucked into the boat, but circulated through a heat transfer system which cools the engine's closed-loop liquid before being mixed with the exhause and being expelled overboard. Either way, outside water is being pumped into the boat, around the engine, and back out. Lots of opportunities for leaks, sometimes very small, sometimes big enough to sink the boat in a few minutes. If you are really so totally ignorant of your boat's basic systems, you might consider staying off the boat (for your own safety) until you have read a book or two or attended a class.
Ian, mine leaked last season and could not find the problem for a while until I winterized. My leak came from a crack in the waterlock muffler that is molded into the hull. It's almost impossible to fix so I purchased a new vermalift waterlock and installed on top of old one. Problem solved. Also check seals around your water pump. Hope this helps more then Oldsalt being insulting.
Ian, I have a concern with statement about your drip pan under your engine is usually DRY. You should have clear water in that most of the time. The packing nut on your drive shaft has to do a slow steady leak when under way, to cool the bearing. Unless you have a dripless seal there is a real chance of burning that cutlas bearing up.
So when under way go down below and make sure you're getting a drip of at least 2 or 3 drops every 30 seconds or so. You can actually do that sitting in your slip. Just tie her up short so you don't hit the dock put her in gear, go below and check it out.
Sorry about Oldsalt, that attitude is not called for here. I hope this helps.
So when under way go down below and make sure you're getting a drip of at least 2 or 3 drops every 30 seconds or so. You can actually do that sitting in your slip. Just tie her up short so you don't hit the dock put her in gear, go below and check it out.
Sorry about Oldsalt, that attitude is not called for here. I hope this helps.
Oldersalt apologizes. I must have been feeling really grumpy yesterday and I apologize. Won't happen again.
Oldersalt (maybe too old)
Oldersalt (maybe too old)
Thanks for all your replies. I understand about the stuffing box and packing gland, but mine has never dripped before ( although does have a light , copper sulphate blue coat), so I didnt want to mess with it. I am noticing under power, that a drop is being flung upwards, about once every two seconds, then dropping down from the skupper pipe where it is collecting. This is something new. I have a closed cooling system, which is working just fine, but the problem is definitely coming from the gland/shaft. Might get a pic and post here in the next few days, in case anyone, (apart from my salty friend!), has any ideas
Ian - On your Hunter I'm sure the packing gland has always had a drop or two every 10 to 30 seconds. Unless you have a sealed coupling the drip is necessary to cool the bearing. While you may have never noticed before it is certain to have been and be occurring or the bearing would have burned out long ago. Depending on engine usage I would not be concerned if you accumulated up to 4 ounces of seawater over a period of one hour. Your boat is designed to drain from the engine drip pan to the lowest point of the bilge - getting from the drip pan to the bilge can take up to 8 hours and the travel area is not easily visible on some boats. I'm guessing you have not noticed previously due to timing.
What is the rubber hose? The water should be flowing directly from the pan under the coupling through weep holes to the lower bilge towards the center of the vessel. Is there some type of hose installed in the pan?
Putting up a picture. I have a piece of rubber tubing between engine sump and pan with keel bolt in it. If I remove thisd, the water can then drain down to lower bilge. I have had this boat four years, and noticed that the stuffing ox never dripperd, so assumed it was a dripless one. I frequently motor at 2200 rpm four hours to Catalina, when no wind, and have never had a problem. Maybe I am lucky. Is there a way to tell what sort of stuffing box it is? It certainly can be loosened and a drip set up
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I'm not seeing the rubber hose - but it looks like you if you any volume of "drip" it should be draining to the section ahead of your companionway stairs. If you are motoring to Catalina for four hours, there should be a noticeable amount of seawater visable. If this is not occurring I suggest having someone familiar with stuffing box adjustments lossen and then readjust the two shaft nuts and create a drip of at least one drop per 30 seconds. You can dry the resevoir out with a sponge after sailing (a 2 gallon wet/dry shopvac works great for drying the bilge - just be sure you have it grounded for sure. You need to treat all of your keel bolts - lithium grease works best - either in a tube or for hard to reach bolts - in a spray.
Seabair. The tube is running in the hole visible, between the engine pan and the keel bolt pan. Should I just pull it out, so as the water goes to bilge, or drill another hole and leave tube in? Not sure why tube would be there. Can you please send me a pic or yours?
I don't have any tubing between my engine pan and bilge and don't know why someone inserted this on your vessel. It is designed to freely drain through the weep hole to the bilge. It the tubing is not connected to anything (I can't tell from your pictures) go ahead and remove. Be sure to treat your keel bolts while you're down there. If you get down to San Diego let me know - I'll get you out for a sail. Thanks.
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