I am kind of surprised how bad the COR anchor did and how much it cost. I got one with my new boat and have never liked the way it set (or didn't set as the case may be). I ALWAY dive down and check the anchor set. The COR alway plow about 3 feet and never really digs in good. I like the test results and the proce for the Hydrobubble anchor. Anyone try it yet?
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Bubble anchor
If that bubble anchor is the ones with the plastic can or bubble or float or whatever you call it, on top of it, Tony B had one on his Catalina 30, before Katrina got it and his boat. He really liked it a lot.
If that bubble anchor is the ones with the plastic can or bubble or float or whatever you call it, on top of it, Tony B had one on his Catalina 30, before Katrina got it and his boat. He really liked it a lot.
Yes read the article and was very surprised.
I'm trying to figure out how or 35 lbs CQR held our H320 in 45 knot winds in a sandy bottom. Yep, I need to get a new anchor.
I'm trying to figure out how or 35 lbs CQR held our H320 in 45 knot winds in a sandy bottom. Yep, I need to get a new anchor.
I have a 35 pound CQR that saved my boat
from a grounding when I lost control of it because of a jambed halyard. 10-15 knots of wind being blown towards the shallows in about 7 feet of water on the Chester River. Dropped the hook let out about a hundred feet of rode and snubbed it. She dug in, turned the boat and held. No time to do a text book anchoring just drop the damn thing and hope for the best. I still have the boat and still have the anchor. Will I get another hook? someday I might buy a Bruce knock-off and put another roller on the bow. My friends tell me I could probably get another half knot out of the boat if I got rid of the extra ballast.
from a grounding when I lost control of it because of a jambed halyard. 10-15 knots of wind being blown towards the shallows in about 7 feet of water on the Chester River. Dropped the hook let out about a hundred feet of rode and snubbed it. She dug in, turned the boat and held. No time to do a text book anchoring just drop the damn thing and hope for the best. I still have the boat and still have the anchor. Will I get another hook? someday I might buy a Bruce knock-off and put another roller on the bow. My friends tell me I could probably get another half knot out of the boat if I got rid of the extra ballast.
Limited test?
Most of the tests were done in clean sand. I'd be curious to see how those anchors would do in mud, shell, heavy grass or rocky bottoms. Conventional wisdom has it that the CQR may not be as good as a Danforth in sand or mud, but it does better in more types of bottom than any other anchor, hence its long-standing popularity among cruisers. I also don't get the part about the West Marine Danforth not doing as well as the Fortress (also a Danforth) because its "flukes weren't as sharp". If the CQR could bury itself, I would imagine the WM Danforth should too.... Peter H23 "Raven"
Most of the tests were done in clean sand. I'd be curious to see how those anchors would do in mud, shell, heavy grass or rocky bottoms. Conventional wisdom has it that the CQR may not be as good as a Danforth in sand or mud, but it does better in more types of bottom than any other anchor, hence its long-standing popularity among cruisers. I also don't get the part about the West Marine Danforth not doing as well as the Fortress (also a Danforth) because its "flukes weren't as sharp". If the CQR could bury itself, I would imagine the WM Danforth should too.... Peter H23 "Raven"
I'll keep my Fortress
Just read the article. I'd been considering replacing my Fortress with a Delta but I guess I'll keep the Fortress based on the test. One thing that puzzled me is the length of rode they used. They were talking about 3:1 and 5:1, I always though 7:1 was ideal. Anybody got any thoughts?
Just read the article. I'd been considering replacing my Fortress with a Delta but I guess I'll keep the Fortress based on the test. One thing that puzzled me is the length of rode they used. They were talking about 3:1 and 5:1, I always though 7:1 was ideal. Anybody got any thoughts?
7 to 1 is right hugh
7 to 1 is the right amount of scope for anything but maybe a hurricane. In tight harbors you can't always have 7 to 1 is why they test at less scope ratios. CQR saved my butt in 110 mph hurricane so I am never changing mine. Also carry the Danforth which is also excellent anchor.
7 to 1 is the right amount of scope for anything but maybe a hurricane. In tight harbors you can't always have 7 to 1 is why they test at less scope ratios. CQR saved my butt in 110 mph hurricane so I am never changing mine. Also carry the Danforth which is also excellent anchor.
7:1 is NOT always ideal
depends on serveral key factors like depth, how crowded... It is a good rule of thumb.
depends on serveral key factors like depth, how crowded... It is a good rule of thumb.
Anchor Tests
I have read most (if not all) the various tests done by Practical Sailor, Sail, and the 1995 Puget Sound Test (referenced above). All these tests conclude that no one anchor will work for all wind and wave conditions, bottom types, etc. Fortress and Danforth tend to test well in sand and mud. Plow types like the CQR, Spade, Delta Talon, etc. tend to do well in rocks and weeds. Since our local conditions usually involve 10-12 ft. diurnal tidal changes we frequently end up 180 degrees from where we first anchor so the ability of the anchor to resist pull-out when the current changes direction is important. Some anchors tend to pull out, but reset quickly (Bruce) whereas others tend to pull out not at all--just "corkscrew" into the bottom (Fortress). Our anchorages are frequently crowded so and anchor that does well at 3:1 scope is important. Based on all this we carry two anchors--a Fortress (aluminum Danforth type) and a Delta Talon (plow type). We have never dragged at anchor when these anchors are properly set. I am not saying that these are the best anchors for your neck of the woods; just that in Puget Sound they are an awesome combination. We have the best luck setting by first letting out 7:1 and backing down hard then reeling in to 5:1 or 3:1 depending on the crowd.
I have read most (if not all) the various tests done by Practical Sailor, Sail, and the 1995 Puget Sound Test (referenced above). All these tests conclude that no one anchor will work for all wind and wave conditions, bottom types, etc. Fortress and Danforth tend to test well in sand and mud. Plow types like the CQR, Spade, Delta Talon, etc. tend to do well in rocks and weeds. Since our local conditions usually involve 10-12 ft. diurnal tidal changes we frequently end up 180 degrees from where we first anchor so the ability of the anchor to resist pull-out when the current changes direction is important. Some anchors tend to pull out, but reset quickly (Bruce) whereas others tend to pull out not at all--just "corkscrew" into the bottom (Fortress). Our anchorages are frequently crowded so and anchor that does well at 3:1 scope is important. Based on all this we carry two anchors--a Fortress (aluminum Danforth type) and a Delta Talon (plow type). We have never dragged at anchor when these anchors are properly set. I am not saying that these are the best anchors for your neck of the woods; just that in Puget Sound they are an awesome combination. We have the best luck setting by first letting out 7:1 and backing down hard then reeling in to 5:1 or 3:1 depending on the crowd.
The sail tests confim what we already know..
I have a CQR and a Bruce and both have issues. My CQR has never liked to set in a hard bottom but works OK in mud although it tends to dig a plough furrow if the wind picks up. My Bruce sets far better than my CQR but has very limited holding power for it's weight. I use 150 of 5/16 chain and never, ever set my anchors on less than a 7:1 yet my CQR initially sets only about 60% on the first try. I think a lot of people never actually set the anchor by backing down with considerable throttle so they don't realize the anchor is not actually set. Scuba diving on my CQR confirms that it likes to set on it's side and not fully dig in. In light winds it also confirms that the chain is usually holding my boat and not the anchor. What good is my CQR hinge if it's laying on it's side?? I've been using my Bruce a lot more lately than my CQR but chartered a boat with a Spade and plan on switching out my CQR for one of those. I think my CQR is a good anchor but not as good as the newer generation of hooks. The Spade set like a car accident because it was like hitting a brick wall. It hooks up very hard. Anchoring skills are sorely missing from todays crowd of boaters and this is why so many defend the CQR because in most cases the anchor is not set and the chain is holding the boat in place with the anchor acting like a sinker on a fishing rod. The CQR does not set well in hard sand great tell us something we don't already know!! The anchor in this test that really has me kind of excited is the Rocna. It's comparable in price to the CQR, which seems very high considering it's welded steel and not a forged anchor, but if it works the way people on other forums and the Sail tests say it does I may consider it over a Spade. I like the two piece design of the Spade though. I saw Walter Cronkites boat with a Rocna this summer and the crew working on his boat spoke very highly of it. I'm ready to be done with my CQR but I'll keep my Bruce even though I know it has less potential holding power than the CQR.
I have a CQR and a Bruce and both have issues. My CQR has never liked to set in a hard bottom but works OK in mud although it tends to dig a plough furrow if the wind picks up. My Bruce sets far better than my CQR but has very limited holding power for it's weight. I use 150 of 5/16 chain and never, ever set my anchors on less than a 7:1 yet my CQR initially sets only about 60% on the first try. I think a lot of people never actually set the anchor by backing down with considerable throttle so they don't realize the anchor is not actually set. Scuba diving on my CQR confirms that it likes to set on it's side and not fully dig in. In light winds it also confirms that the chain is usually holding my boat and not the anchor. What good is my CQR hinge if it's laying on it's side?? I've been using my Bruce a lot more lately than my CQR but chartered a boat with a Spade and plan on switching out my CQR for one of those. I think my CQR is a good anchor but not as good as the newer generation of hooks. The Spade set like a car accident because it was like hitting a brick wall. It hooks up very hard. Anchoring skills are sorely missing from todays crowd of boaters and this is why so many defend the CQR because in most cases the anchor is not set and the chain is holding the boat in place with the anchor acting like a sinker on a fishing rod. The CQR does not set well in hard sand great tell us something we don't already know!! The anchor in this test that really has me kind of excited is the Rocna. It's comparable in price to the CQR, which seems very high considering it's welded steel and not a forged anchor, but if it works the way people on other forums and the Sail tests say it does I may consider it over a Spade. I like the two piece design of the Spade though. I saw Walter Cronkites boat with a Rocna this summer and the crew working on his boat spoke very highly of it. I'm ready to be done with my CQR but I'll keep my Bruce even though I know it has less potential holding power than the CQR.
Delts is for me
Hi guys I have a C 30 and anchor out atleast 60 nights a year.Ive used a 35# CQR type anchor with 30' of 5/16 chain and 5/8 rode 200' the cqr worked good for me .I would hold the rode in my hand wile droping it and drag it behind the boat to keep it pointed down then hold it tight and let the rode slide out of my hand under some presher.I would set it with the moter at 7 to 1 scope and then pull in to about 4 to 1 Ive used it for 6 years mud sand rock weed Ive only lost my grip on the bottom once .I had a180o wind switch in 40 kts of wind with 6 foot waves I was going to move to a better spot after coffee .I was very close to going in the swamp but save my self.I changed to a delta this year becouse of the hing problem and the delta is shorter and clears my anchor locker lid.The delta is much sticker then the CQR and digs much deeper Ive find the shank 4' in the bottom most of the time and it is very hard to pull it out.I use the boat to pull is out.I have a fx11 stern anchor and afx16 as a back up bow anchor they all work great but the fx11 dose not set well with out 30" of chain. John
Hi guys I have a C 30 and anchor out atleast 60 nights a year.Ive used a 35# CQR type anchor with 30' of 5/16 chain and 5/8 rode 200' the cqr worked good for me .I would hold the rode in my hand wile droping it and drag it behind the boat to keep it pointed down then hold it tight and let the rode slide out of my hand under some presher.I would set it with the moter at 7 to 1 scope and then pull in to about 4 to 1 Ive used it for 6 years mud sand rock weed Ive only lost my grip on the bottom once .I had a180o wind switch in 40 kts of wind with 6 foot waves I was going to move to a better spot after coffee .I was very close to going in the swamp but save my self.I changed to a delta this year becouse of the hing problem and the delta is shorter and clears my anchor locker lid.The delta is much sticker then the CQR and digs much deeper Ive find the shank 4' in the bottom most of the time and it is very hard to pull it out.I use the boat to pull is out.I have a fx11 stern anchor and afx16 as a back up bow anchor they all work great but the fx11 dose not set well with out 30" of chain. John
I hate my CQR...
in hard sand bottoms. For all else it's a good anchor. I've been using my Delta more and more because it sets better than my CQR 10 out of 10 times. I too am an all chain rode guy and agree that people who think CQR is so great are not using it correctly or actually setting it. -You below the grass a lot longer than above so enjoy it now!
in hard sand bottoms. For all else it's a good anchor. I've been using my Delta more and more because it sets better than my CQR 10 out of 10 times. I too am an all chain rode guy and agree that people who think CQR is so great are not using it correctly or actually setting it. -You below the grass a lot longer than above so enjoy it now!
CQR hard to set in Weeds
At Fort Mcree near Pensacola I tried several times to set my CQR in 20kts or so of wind. Finally gave up and my large Danforth set first try. But they both drug one night after a storm caused a 360 degree wind shift. The danforth had speared a conch and didn't reset and the CQR apparently just dragged over the bottom without resetting. I bought a 33# Bruce knockoff called the claw and the CQR is now in my garage. The Claw has stayed set of reset after wind shifts and tidal current changes without every dragging. I use it with about 25' of chain.. The Claw is a little larger than the CQR and the CQR doesn't look quite standard, kinda like homemade??? The quality of welding etc is different. Maybe from a knockoff factory?? It came with the boat so I don't know it's history. It did well in mud but after dragging in hard sand and grass I don't trust it. The Claw is from Defender and was made in China. Cast, not forged as the original Bruce. Supposedly forged anchors have higher ultimate strength.
At Fort Mcree near Pensacola I tried several times to set my CQR in 20kts or so of wind. Finally gave up and my large Danforth set first try. But they both drug one night after a storm caused a 360 degree wind shift. The danforth had speared a conch and didn't reset and the CQR apparently just dragged over the bottom without resetting. I bought a 33# Bruce knockoff called the claw and the CQR is now in my garage. The Claw has stayed set of reset after wind shifts and tidal current changes without every dragging. I use it with about 25' of chain.. The Claw is a little larger than the CQR and the CQR doesn't look quite standard, kinda like homemade??? The quality of welding etc is different. Maybe from a knockoff factory?? It came with the boat so I don't know it's history. It did well in mud but after dragging in hard sand and grass I don't trust it. The Claw is from Defender and was made in China. Cast, not forged as the original Bruce. Supposedly forged anchors have higher ultimate strength.
My Spade sets well in weeds..
I have lots of eel grass where I anchor out alot and switched from a CQR to a Spade S80. The difference in setting the Spade vs. the CQR is like night vs. day. I have not used my CQR in three years. As far as I'm concerned the Sail tests match my personal experience. Yes th CQR sets good in a mud bottom but my Spade sets everywhere so why use an anchor with such limited ability? I still have my CQR and keep it as a spare it's in my basement with rest of the stuff I'll probably never use again like the salad shooter, ab roller and the Ginsu knives.
I have lots of eel grass where I anchor out alot and switched from a CQR to a Spade S80. The difference in setting the Spade vs. the CQR is like night vs. day. I have not used my CQR in three years. As far as I'm concerned the Sail tests match my personal experience. Yes th CQR sets good in a mud bottom but my Spade sets everywhere so why use an anchor with such limited ability? I still have my CQR and keep it as a spare it's in my basement with rest of the stuff I'll probably never use again like the salad shooter, ab roller and the Ginsu knives.
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