Sailrite sewing machine advise

Squidd · Jul 14, 2012

Old all metal Kenmore...Canvas, Duck, Dacron including clew and head refab...

Found it in the attic....$100 on tune up and timing...

Redid all the upholstry in boat... rehabbed the sails to useable condition...rehabbed a sail cover (zippers and Velcro) and tiller cover (sunbrella) and will be tackling a Bimimi this fall..

Yes, on a multi layer clew you need to "bump start" it... and baby it thru the real tough stuff.. but how much of this are you really going to do???, compared to just your basic heavy duty sewing (duck).. weigh the cost out, over buying premade or jumping to a Sailrite machine...

Sumner · Jul 14, 2012

Ross said:
Ripping seams is easy with two people or a vise and a sharp utility knife. You start opening the seam and then pull the two pieces of fabric apart exposing the stitches. Then you just touch the stitch and it will part. It works best with two people because you have to frequently change your grip.

We just use a ...

...seam ripper....

http://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/clo-463.php?gclid=CIz4nLTYmbECFY2b7Qod4iRkjw

....works great. Wish I could say that I've never used it :cry:. Still easier with two people like you said, but you can still use it by yourself and take out long seams really fast.

While we are on tips these...

... magnetic pin holders are a good deal ...

http://www.amazon.com/bwm36-GBLA-Gr...N6BNI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ac_5/178-2164775-9438515

..and for pins...

... the ones above work great...

http://www.sailrite.com/T-Pins-2-Long-Box-of-364

Sum

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BobM · Jul 14, 2012

There is a good article by Sailrite on how to adjust an older machine to be more effective. http://www.sailrite.com/Using-a-Home-Sewing-Machine-for-Sail-Canvas-Work

It gives a lot of good information about what to look for in a machine. I bought an older all metal zig-zag machine with a belt driven 1.5amp motor for $40 plus about $40 for S&H off ebay. I concluded that while the walking foot is a great option, aftermarket ones are available for most machines and basting tape to keep the layers together can also eliminate the need for one. I just couldn't justify the nearly $300 it would cost for an older Pfaff or newer walking foot machine until I went the older machine route. I haven't done anything but scraps yet, but it is very powerful. Oh, and I also looked for a machine with a decent size flywheel. Per Sailrite I will add the adhesive lead weights used for tire rims to the outside to gain some momentum. My machine also has down force adjustment on the presser foot, another sailrite recommendation.

Give it a read.

Bob

tedsbeds · Jul 14, 2012

I have been a stitcher for 40+ years and have used almost exclusively singer machines. You can get away with not using a Zog Zag for most canvas but not saiils. An important distinction with sewing machines is where and how the motor is attached.
All industrial machines have the motor suspended beneath the table and turning all the time with a clutch arrangement. These are more powerful because the motor is constantly spinning a heavy flywheel which maintains a lot of inertia. When the motor is mounted directly on the flywheel on the head you start sewing with the motor from a dead stop. I have always found these machines marginal at best. For canvas work you want a wal;king foot machine. The Consew 206RB is a good machine. An older Singer 111w155 is also a good heavy duty machine. These all sit on a table with the motor underneath. I also use a Singer 20U73 which is an industrial Zig Zag machine. You can usually find these machines used in an area whiich had a textile history

Tejas · Jul 15, 2012

An alternative to a an industrial sewing machine clutch motor is a servo motor that does not run all the time, has little or no apparent inertia and depending upon the model can be set to a low maximum speed that provides enough control to be easily single cycled. However, professional sewers can sew quite fast and can handle clutch motors quite well.

Both the Singer 111w155 and Consew 206RB are compound walking-foot sewing machines -- have both drop-feed and needle-feed. That model Singer lacks reverse. Personally in an industrial machine for canvas work, compound walking-foot with a servo motor is the highest priority; Reverse is next; Knee or foot lift is next, followed by a large bobbin.

Sam Salter · Jul 15, 2012

Digressing slightly, I've got to say that I never, ever use pins. it's real hard to get a pin through two or more thicknesses of Sunbrella or sailcloth.
Double sided seaming tape or a very large stapler.
sam

Tejas · Jul 15, 2012

Sam,

I also cannot recall ever using pins, and depending upon the situation use small clamps, a pliers-like office stapler or basting tape. My understanding is that pins are typically used perpendicular to and across the stitch-line and removed before going under the foot. Staples can be placed off-to-the side and parallel to the stitch and can later be removed all at once.

Workforce 3/4 inch Mini Spring Clamps at 37 cents each from Home Depot are amazingly useful. My wife even uses the same mini clamps on her home sewing machine.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25e...=10053&langId=-1&keyword=clamps&storeId=10051

Sumner · Jul 15, 2012

We also use basting tape some...

...like putting the zipper in above and at other times, but find if I can pin something a couple places and then align while sewing it goes faster and easier.

Also use staples..

...at times when that is the best bet like on the cushion cover above.

They all have their uses, but I still use pins...

... more places than not and the pins above can be pushed through quite a few layers of sunbrella. Some places you can't get a stapler into and tape can be a pain and really not work well. And yes have used clamps also.

We used the LSZ-1 yesterday and today down in Florida to alter the bimini we made at home a little for a better fit. It sure was nice that we were able to bring it down and use it here. We will probably take it with us on the boat while cruising also. Love it,

Sum

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Tejas · Jul 15, 2012

Sumner,

I'm convinced that T-pins can also be an appropriate and in some cases probably a superior choice -- T--pins will be on the next Sailrite order.

I should have mentioned that basting tape seems to gum-up the needle, so I avoid using basting tape and especially for long runs.

Sumner · Jul 15, 2012

Tejas said:
....I should have mentioned that basting tape seems to gums-up the needle, so I avoid using basting tape and especially for long runs.

Yep we have had the same experience with gumming up the needles and I'm cheap (sometimes)

.

It will also gum up the T-pins, so we try not to use both at the same place but sometimes you have to. Have fun, we both like sewing a lot,

Sum

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Tejas · Jul 21, 2012

Volksfolks62,

As you were the OP, just wondering what you decided, or did some sewing-interested folks (pun intended) just end up talking to each other.

Tejas · Jul 22, 2012

Enjoy your new sewing machine. Just in case you are not aware, Sailrite has a sewing forum. Matt is real responsive to questions.

There is a forum topic on Sailrite sewing machines.

http://forum.sailrite.com/

Sailrite videos are quite good. You might want to get the Ultrafeed maintenance video.

http://www.sailrite.com/Ultrafeed-Advanced-Maintenance-DVD

I haven't seen it, but the Sailrite 111 video was mostly applicable to the Singer 111W155 I had previously, and the video was very helpful.

Sumner · Jul 22, 2012

Congrats, you will like it. I'd sew with it a bit and then check out the following two links...

http://www.sailrite.com/Scarfed-Shuttle-Hook-Ultrafeed-Yachtsman

http://www.sailrite.com/Setting-Foot-Height-Range-of-Motion-Video

....and adjust the machine according to the videos. It should come all setup, but we were having a problem after the machine was 2 years old and Matt sent me the above links and told me to try them. I did and our problem was not only fixed, but the feed was better than when it was new and also we could get a lot more material under the foot. The videos are easy to follow and you will know the machine a lot better.

Sooner or later the needle will hit one of these two items...

http://www.sailrite.com/Retaining-Ring-Cap-Spring-for-Ultrafeeds-and-Yachtsman

http://www.sailrite.com/Scarfed-Shuttle-Hook-Ultrafeed-Yachtsman

...and when it does the thread will start tearing and unraveling. If this happens look for nicks on the pieces above and use a jeweler's file and emery cloth to smooth them back out.

Sum

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caguy · Jul 22, 2012

For some great sewing techniques and lessons check out youtube. There are also some helpful vids on choosing your foam.

jibes138 · Aug 29, 2012

Try putting some kind of limiter on the foot pedal so it doesn't go all the way down, maybe a wood wegde or something that way you can control speed much slower. Fast is good when doing long runs but I agree when handling multiple pieces, trying to keep the seams aligned is is better to have a slow speed very often.

Sumner · Aug 29, 2012

Volksfolks62 said:
UPDATE! I got my sailrite machine ,the lsz1 model. Thank again for everyone's help ..I'm getting used to it ...it's really really fast for a noob..but I've done plenty of practice ...lol just need to remember to stop before I get to the end ...did I mention it was fast? ...gonna make a new tramp for my hobie ..once that's done and I don't fall thru it ,I'm going to tackle a new Bimini using H2ube ..but again thanks for all of your helpful advise !!

This mod I did...

....will fix it. Ours now will sew stitch if need be. More here...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor-canvas/canvas-14.html

Also we have done a lot of projects with that machine and are very satisfied owners. Some of what we did might also help...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor-canvas/canvas-index.html

Sum

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