Sailing Vietnam

Oct 26, 2008
6,079
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
We visited 3 coastal cities in Vietnam during the past 2 weeks and I didn't see a single modern sailboat. We stayed in Hoi An, Da Nang and Dong Hoi. Each of these were very interesting destinations. Da Nang is an especially exciting city to visit. Tourism is on the rise. I wonder what it would take to attract cruisers. I suppose the lack of marina facilities is a negative. Also, the coastline doesn't really have attractive features to visit. There are a few attractive islands and peninsulas that might attract sailors, but probably too few and far between.
Hoi An.jpeg

This store in Hoi An had some beautiful models for exceptional prices.
 
Oct 19, 2017
7,746
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
I wonder what it would take to attract cruisers.
I wonder what it would take to keep places like that quiet and safe from discovery by the masses. Do you really want more cruisers, or anyone outside the locals and you, discovering such pristine beauty? Some places are attractive simply because they don't attract others.
However, I really really appreciate your post and am not only jealous, but very interested in following your foot steps someday.
Thanks.

-Will (Dragonfly)
 
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Oct 26, 2008
6,079
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Well, pristine beauty isn't exactly how I would describe the country. Vietnam does have a population over 90 million people. The length of coastline is comparable to the entire length of our west coast from San Diego to Cape Flattery, Washington. But the people are basically wedged within the thin area between the coast and the mountains. The density is beyond imagination, even within "country" villages. The economy appears strong right now. We saw construction everywhere. Construction debris is everywhere you can imagine, alongside the rivers and roadways, even in the countryside areas. The rivers appear to be largely silted and/or polluted. There is no apparent attempt to control pollution. They don't seem to have any concept about controlling litter. All of the roads that we saw are strewn with litter and overgrown with vegetation that has little beauty. Except in the few features where they take pride, there is absolutely no attempt at beautification of the landscape. The jungle vegetation in the mountains is too intense for me to see much beauty. The countryside that is relatively level is very largely farmed or used to dispose construction debris. There are muddy ponds everywhere that they use to care for their water buffalo. There seems to be a lot of new housing going up vertically to replace the small village homes, but aside from the new attractive buildings, the great majority of buildings are very badly cared for. They throw up a lot of structures that look like they were intended to be temporary, but have existed for years. It seems that they use every scrap of material until it is past the point of disintegration. Sadly, much of the mountainside around Da Nang is still scarred by Agent Orange.

There must be an over-abundance of food in the country. The farming is intense to say the least. Just about every square inch that isn't in the mountains is farmed for fruits, vegetables, livestock fish and rice. Even the small residential properties have gardens to grow vegetables. It seems that a large percentage of the population is employed to produce and sell food. Markets are everywhere. I mean the density of markets where every imaginable thing is sold is something to behold and there seems to be a steady stream of customers coming and going rapidly. The people are very quick and active everywhere they seem to be. It seems that every single stall is constantly busy with activity! I can't even imagine that much food can be consumed. I was commenting that there must be a super-abundance of food and there must be a lot that is wasted or fed to livestock, I suppose. They seem to take pride that everything they prepare is really fresh.

The roadway traffic is beyond belief and chaotic. Most people get around on motor scooters and their mode of transporting goods and materials by scooters is ingenious. There is a growing number of cars and the streets aren't necessarily built for cars. There is very little traffic signalization, even in the cities. The traffic just seems to flow like rivers without interruption despite the intensity. I marveled at the way traffic just seems to be fluid despite the chaos at intersections.

The weather was intensely hot while we were there. It is not a place that conveys an image of tranquility (it appears chaotic to westerners, I think) and it certainly isn't undiscovered. Tourism is certainly being embraced. There are mega-resorts appearing along the coastline. To a great extent, they don't speak English and they don't take any currency except their VTN Dong. It is definitely not an easy place for tourists. You take the country as it is, which is very rough form at this point.

Despite everything described, I can't imagine a more kind, gentle and friendly people. Smiles communicate their kind intentions. Sue was embraced by all of the women as if she were family for life. As my son says, their kindness is very sincere. They do not present a false image of friendliness as is done in other countries. I never felt that any of the people that we interacted with were anything but completely trustworthy. They also seem to put the past behind. I have a new family in Dong Hoi now and several of my new family were in the North Vietnamese Army during the "American War". One uncle told me (via translation) that they look to the future and do not hold resentment for the past. He was a distinguished gentleman, whom served in their military from 1965 thru 1985. We were in Dong Hoi for Eric's wedding ceremony to Huyen and, sadly, for the funeral of Huyen's mother, which unfortunately coincided. We spent a week with her family. It was a family experience that we will never forget.
 

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Oct 26, 2008
6,079
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
We took a tour boat to Cham Island for snorkeling. It is intensely commercialized but a nice trip nevertheless. If Vietnam had more island groupings such as this one, it could be more attractive to cruisers, I think. Compared to other locations in the western Pacific, there may be too few cruising destinations here.
Cham Island Temple.jpeg
 

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Jan 1, 2006
7,074
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
Congratulations for your family's wedding. Very interesting post. Amazing description of people, family and landscape. We have a Vietnamese restaurant nearby - so do you have any dishes I should try excepting the stewed duck which I've heard... well not for American tastes.
 
Aug 28, 2006
564
Bavaria 35E seattle
Thanks for your informative post on Viet Nam. I found it very interesting to hear about your take on the current situation for tourism. Congrats on the family wedding, too.
 

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,651
Catalina 30 Mk II Barnegat, NJ
Yes, very informative review of Vietnam. Glad you had a great experience and congratulations to Eric and Huyen.
How was the Vietnam cuisine?
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,079
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Sue and I are not "foodies" so we basically ate whatever was put n front of us and what we thought we could stomach. Sue doesn't eat any seafood, so it was much more difficult for her. We found pizza every once in a while to get a break. I basically liked Banh Mi and Pho as everybody does. I ate squid, prawns, clams, and oysters on multiple occasions. When in Hoi An you have to eat cao lau, which is their special rice noodles with pork & vegetables … deelish! Sue had com ga - chicken rice. We had a side of fried sweet corn that was really good and something that I have never seen before.

Sticky rice, fried rice and white rice helped fill the voids. A lot of it was flavored with various sauces, and the fish sauce was surprisingly good. I had frog legs, which I liked a lot more than the chicken. We had pork and beef in various forms. Everything was washed down with Tiger Beer or Saigon Beer, usually served warm with a glass and a huge chunk of ice. But we also had cold bottled beer. Da Nang has a wide variety of food choices and craft beers. On our last night we went to a place called 7 Bridges for craft beer and enjoyed it quite a lot, sitting in open air on the roof top overlooking the city and the Dragon Bridge. Unfortunately, we didn't get to spend as much time in Da Nang as we planned. We had to go to Dong Hoi right away after Hoi An as Huyen's mother turned for the worse.

We visited a few caves near Phong Nha and they were amazing. Paradise Cave was spectacular. Phong Nha cave is entered on a boat tour.


Family - cave.jpeg
Boat tour.jpeg

This woman and her son took us on the boat tour. After they motor to the cave, all traveling inside the cave is done by this woman sculling the boat with an oar. This has to be grueling physical work, which she seems to enjoy!

Phong Nha cave.jpeg


Two weeks is a short visit for a diverse country. We saw only a small sample in the central area. Our daughter, Linda, came with an open ended schedule. She intended to spend more time in Da Nang, where Eric & Huyen live, and will go to the highlands city of Delat in the south for a longer stay. She may travel all the way north near the China boarder eventually.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,079
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Hoi An 1.jpeg


Hoi An has to be seen to be believed. It is an ancient city dating back to the 7th century and had been an important trading center for centuries. It was the commercial center of the Champa Empire, whom ruled the central region of Vietnam. It became one of the most important trade centers in all of Asia, with trade between Europe, China, Japan & India. Now, the trade is tourism.

The streets are unbelievably filled with people all day and into the evening all the time. It's hard to imagine the density of shops and restaurants and the streets filled with people. At night, the streets are lit up with hundreds of thousands of lanterns strung all over the place. I could never imagine a more beautiful scene than the streets and shops all lit up, the canals filled with boats, and everybody happy and in a great mood. It seems that there could not be a more pleasant, happy and harmonious place in the world. During the 4 evenings that we spent in Hoi An, there was never even any hint of conflict or malevolence. I can not say enough about the feeling of good will that envelopes the entire city. There are literally tens of thousands of people filling the streets at all times and not ever any hint of conflict among anybody. Sue was in heaven for the shopping!

Hoi An 2.jpeg

Hoi An 3.jpeg
 

dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
3,416
Belliure 41 Sailing back to the Chesapeake
Beautiful photos! I've wanted to visit Vietnam for quite some time. I guess I'll get there one of these days... Glad you had a lovely trip and congratulations on the new family ties!

dj
 
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Oct 26, 2008
6,079
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Visiting Linh Ung Pagoda on Son Tra Peninsula to see Lady Buddha gave us the most wonderful sense of well-being for an afternoon.
It is a must-see attraction in Da Nang. Legs should be covered when entering temples. They provided a sort of skirt for the men whom wear shorts!
Linh Ung.jpeg

This is just one example of multitudes of carved statues throughout the Pagoda grounds.

We overlooked the Dragon Bridge in Da Nang during our last night in the Vietnam. They love to light up their cities as we saw all bridges in Da Nang, Hoi An & Dong Hoi similarly lit up at night. The Dragon Bridge is a big attraction on Saturday nights when they do a big show. That's a giant Ferris Wheel in the background!

Green Dragon.jpeg

Orange Dragon.jpeg


Sue's last harrah at the market stalls during our last night! Huyen gave us an edge during price negotiations for every purchase!
Sue shops.jpeg
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,079
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
I got an all expenses paid trip there back in the early 70's. I have no urge to go back. ;)
When I was in high school, Vietnam was absolutely the last place in the world that I would have voluntarily gone. I remember being quite surprised when my niece and her husband visited Vietnam about 15 years ago. I would have expected it to be more like North Korea, but how wrong I was! I still don't quite understand their government. It is a single-party communist government with authoritarian rule, I believe. Yet the government seems to let the people live their lives as they please with normal freedoms. They certainly seem to be free to pursue business activities and construction without repressive regulation! I didn't detect any real authoritarian presence. It hardly seems like there is any need for police even. What few we saw seemed to be completely at ease and pleasant to everyone.

Huyen's brother has a very high command in the Army. I would never guess it by his relaxed demeanor. I met a few Party leaders. One spoke English and also works in a telecommunications industry. He said that only Party committee members vote in elections. (He was the only male that spoke enough English for me to communicate with directly). Most people seem to be completely disinterested in politics. The Village Leader spent a lot of time at Huyen's mother's funeral over a 3-day period. He is a Party member and it seemed that he is deeply rooted in the interests of his village.

I still don't know what to think about how the government works in Vietnam. It seems that it is impolite to talk about politics, yet I didn't have any sense of discontent either. It seems that they are very optimistic about their future. What I noticed is that the people are very active and seem very harmonious towards each other. Whatever they are doing right, it seems to be working. I think that beautification of the countryside will become more prevalent as they modernize. But modernization may also come at the cost of harmony. It's hard to know what works!
 
Oct 22, 2014
21,102
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Thank you Scott for sharing this exciting time in your family life. It looks like it was an enriching life experience. I wish You and Sue all the best. The welcoming of you into the family is a moving experience. Family first, politics way down the line in priority.
May you soon be blessed with grand children.
 
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Oct 26, 2008
6,079
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
May you soon be blessed with grand children.
We are hoping soon! Huyen certainly is on board with that idea. We're also hoping they eventually come to the States to live, but we'll have to wait and see about that. Huyen's family was very welcoming and we are getting reports from Huyen that they were greatly appreciative that we spent a lot of time with them. She says it makes her "proud" that they speak well about us so that is a good thing! They certainly made a great impression on us.
 
Oct 22, 2014
21,102
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
That is the start of good things to come.

It has been my impression that a son goes off to see the world. A daughter keeps family nearby. Might be a good idea to rack up some of those frequent flyer miles just in case.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,079
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
That is the start of good things to come.

It has been my impression that a son goes off to see the world. A daughter keeps family nearby. Might be a good idea to rack up some of those frequent flyer miles just in case.
Except that she is multilingual in English and French. She has a real gift for language. Huyen is very bright and ambitious. She already left her home in the north to move to Da Nang. Both of her parents have passed and she is the youngest. I've generally found that the youngest usually are more inclined to flying off for distant lands. Huyen would have a great future here, but she doesn't realize it yet. I'm thinking that when they do come to visit, she may be more inclined to stay.
 
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Oct 10, 2011
619
Tartan 34C Toms River, New Jersey
A great write up of your visit and congrats on the wedding. A great shot of Da Nang it seems to have recovered well from when I was there in 70 but then again that was almost 50 years ago. No desire to go back, but that is just me.
Again congrats on the wedding and your new extended family.
 
Dec 23, 2019
4
Hunter 36 mkll Currently moored
Totally agree. Da Nang is a really exciting city to visit, visited it last year. I've also seen a ton of tourists, but I can't say if they are always there...