Sailboat trailer questions

[HillbillyWanderer]

Bought a sailboat trailer a few years back and now have a sailboat to go with it. Going to pick it up next week. I have a couple questions I am hoping to get experienced answers for.
The trailer has bolts to lock the stands in position instead of the screw type that you see on most of your trailers. I don't really like this as it gives you no ability to really adjust the boat once on the trailer. However I have seen several trailers with this setup and am told it works quite well. I am curious what people who have experience hauling boats think of this system. See pics below.

The second question is the boat is a O'Day 272 which has a wing keel and is thicker on the front than the back. Should I tilt the boat forward placing most of the weight on the front of the keel? Maybe with some wedges in the rear to absorb some of the weight?

The boat will be loaded by Crain onto the trailer allowing for adjustments and best position possible. I will be trailing the load one way about 900 miles. Thanks for any info you are willing to share.

 

[Meriachee]

Two comments; first that the boat should be level on the trailer, and the "locking" type of stand supports that your picture depicts, strike me as a recipe for eventual disaster, the reason being rust. There's already rust on that thread, and how long would it be until that thread wouldn't turn. Depending on where the boat sits on the trailer, and we could be talking inches, the stands will need to be adjusted. That's where the screw type solution is much better.

 

[HillbillyWanderer]

All bolts turn with as of now and I actually had two more screws added on each stand giving a total of three screws to lock the stand/bar in place. Eventually I want to do away with the stands and add bunks to distribute the weight over he entire hull of the boat instead of having 6 potential pressure points.

I could order the screw type but as I said I am not planning on keeping this system and honestly time is not on my side. I need to pick this boat up Monday that gives me this week to get it ready.
Still have to change all the bearings and breaks along with I am hoping sandblasting paint job and new wiring.

My main question about the stands is while they may not be idea are they good enough to get the job done safely.

 

[Meriachee]

Yes. This rig has traveled thousands of miles, so there's nothing wrong with stands.

 

[HillbillyWanderer]

That is a nice setup !!

 

[31seahorse]

Hello HbWanderer, We owned a 272 several years ago. Oday 272 boats are moved regularly on a trailer. I could not convince myself that it was very practical, but that is your call. In your situation I see a few areas of concern.
(1) The support for the keel is channel shaped in the picture. You need a flat plank in that channel to provide a keel support as wide as the channel will allow.
(2) I would not feel confident that the screwed in T handles would provide enough friction to support the hull as it traveled, leaned, bounced, or moved a bit on the trailer. The holes that are visible might be there to allow bolts or pins to line up with holes in the upper part of the stand pad to "pin" the stands at the appropriate height.
(3) When we stored our 272 ashore in Florida we paid for extra jackstands (a total of 8, if I remember correctly) because the hull is egg-shell thin, and there is a long overhang from the aft end of the keel to the transom. There are no real bulkheads in that area either, just stiffener fiberglas that is parallel to the waterline. The hull flexed easily on the jackstands that set securely on solid ground in the storage yard.
(4) Hull weight: ours was around 5300lbs due to that red diesel thing in the belly. Will your trailer support that much weight, and will your tow vehicle pull and stop that much weight plus the trailer weight?
Best Wishes

 

[Meriachee]

That's why more are better than less. It's probably the best arguement against bunks. They're just not that adjustable. If that glass is as thin as mentioned, then err on the side of a few more.

 

[dLj]

You showed a picture of the base with the screw, but can you take a picture of the piece that goes in the base also? I would think there would be holes in it where you run a through pin. The holes from front to back look like where a pin goes once you set the stands.

dj

 

[HillbillyWanderer]

You showed a picture of the base with the screw, but can you take a picture of the piece that goes in the base also? I would think there would be holes in it where you run a through pin. The holes from front to back look like where a pin goes once you set the stands.

dj

Yes there is holes in the other piece but that will not allow for fine adjustments I don't think. I could drill some new holes once the boat is set in position. Only problem that is some thick steal not sure if I could drill it out in the field. I will post a pic later today.

 

[HillbillyWanderer]

Hello HbWanderer, We owned a 272 several years ago. Oday 272 boats are moved regularly on a trailer. I could not convince myself that it was very practical, but that is your call. In your situation I see a few areas of concern.
(1) The support for the keel is channel shaped in the picture. You need a flat plank in that channel to provide a keel support as wide as the channel will allow.
(2) I would not feel confident that the screwed in T handles would provide enough friction to support the hull as it traveled, leaned, bounced, or moved a bit on the trailer. The holes that are visible might be there to allow bolts or pins to line up with holes in the upper part of the stand pad to "pin" the stands at the appropriate height.
(3) When we stored our 272 ashore in Florida we paid for extra jackstands (a total of 8, if I remember correctly) because the hull is egg-shell thin, and there is a long overhang from the aft end of the keel to the transom. There are no real bulkheads in that area either, just stiffener fiberglas that is parallel to the waterline. The hull flexed easily on the jackstands that set securely on solid ground in the storage yard.
(4) Hull weight: ours was around 5300lbs due to that red diesel thing in the belly. Will your trailer support that much weight, and will your tow vehicle pull and stop that much weight plus the trailer weight?
Best Wishes

Was hoping to find someone with experience hauling a 272.
The board is not a problem I am planning on mounting a board there. Couple questions does the board need to be slanted to allow for the thick front portion of the keel or maybe wedge the rear?
Also how wide can that boat be? Is 12" too wide?

I agree I do not like the screw type bolts to hold the stands, after this pic I had two more added on each stand giving me three per stand. Yes there are holes in the stands from previous boats but chances on them matching up are slim to none. I could drill new ones.

The third one is a big one for me. Are 6 stands enough? I do not know. In researching I have seen several trailers with only six stands including one from triad for the 272. I am planning on trying to set the boat as close to the bultheads as possible as that is what I was told. Problem I don't have any measurements to make sure that can happen and based on what u just said there aren't any. If six aren't enough I will need to scratch the plan and rework for a later date.

The fourth I should be fine on that one. It's hauled 30' boats before with two 7000lb axles. The guy I bought it from used it for a cat27. The tow vehicle with be an F250 so don't see any problems there.

 

[dlochner]

Should I tilt the boat forward placing most of the weight on the front of the keel?

The weight of the boat should be evenly distributed along the keel. In the channel where the keel sits, put a 2x whatever so the keel rests on the wood and not the metal, that will help distribute the weight.

Eventually I want to do away with the stands and add bunks to distribute the weight over he entire hull of the boat instead of having 6 potential pressure points.

Power boats use the bunks to support the weight of the boat, but sailboats like to rest on their keels. The stands or bunks on a sailboat are to stabilize the boat, that is to keep it from tipping over. The strongest part of a sailboat is the keel stump, as you move away from the keel the hull gets thinner. Putting too much weight on a stand or bunk will cause damage to hull.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Meriachee and 31Seahorse have made some good suggestions. As a retired dealer, I will contribute as well. Four stands each side should suffice and the screw pads are highly suggested. The weight of the boat will rest on the keel, therefore, the keel tray is a big factor. You will need the keel tray sides either be cut off or they will dig into the wings if not careful. however I would be reluctant to do that. I use to have boards in place in the keel tray to elevate the keel up a little so the wings would not be dug into by the lip sides. You have to make sure overall height does not exceed 13 feet 6 inches includeing the mast if set up on top of the boat.
May I suggest that your boat be set up on the trailer with adjustments made at a yard with a lift with someone who knows what they are doing. It probably would be worth the bucks for a piece of mind. Also, make sure the load range of your tires will handle the weight and load of the boat, equipment and trailer with an additional margine for safety of 10 percent.

 

[JCall]

Yes there is holes in the other piece but that will not allow for fine adjustments I don't think. I could drill some new holes once the boat is set in position. Only problem that is some thick steal not sure if I could drill it out in the field. I will post a pic later today.

Get yourself a one half horsepower drill that turns slow, oil for lubrication, and several sharp drill bits. Get the boat stable then start drilling. If it takes a day to pin all the adjusters it is better than worrying about every bump in the road for 900 miles.

 

[dLj]

As others have said here, the boat really rides on it's keel. The side supports are to keep it upright. You could try to drill a hole onsite to pin the supports, but often those supports have holes at 90 degrees from each other. If you look carefully (if yours have them) you'll notice they are slightly displaced which actually gives you quite a nice fairly fine adjustment. In any case, another way to get around the work of drilling onsite is to bring plywood pieces that fit the feet of your supports. Bring screws to hold different sheets together if you think you'll need that. Those supports often have holes in them on or near the corners to run screws from the back side into a wooden support. Make sure you have the right length of screws so they don't go through the plywood pad, just enough to hold it in place. I'd also bring scraps of carpet to put over the wooden pads so the boat sits actually on carpet. Staple gun works fine to hold the carpet in place.

One thing I don't see on your trailer is a front support. Most boats get a support right on the bow to keep the boat from sliding forward when braking. Also to keep the boat from sliding off the back going up hills and accelerating, but that's usually easier to control through driving technique. But if you have to slam on the brakes, you want the boat to stay put. You may also wish to bring ratchet straps that go from one support over the top of the boat to the other support and you ratchet them down to hold the boat down.

Just my 2 cents worth.

dj

 

[HillbillyWanderer]

Where would be the best place to add another set of stands?

 

[HillbillyWanderer]

You showed a picture of the base with the screw, but can you take a picture of the piece that goes in the base also? I would think there would be holes in it where you run a through pin. The holes from front to back look like where a pin goes once you set the stands.

dj

 

[dLj]

Where would be the best place to add another set of stands?

I'd be more concerned about putting a support at the bow that anchors the boat fore and aft as well as keeping the boat from rocking. You have that center beam, you might want to figure out a way to make an adjustable stand that can be fixed in place with both lengthways support and sideways support.

From here, nobody can really tell you where to put another side support without the boat sitting on the trailer. At least I couldn't even give you at guess at this point... That being said, if you drive gently, have the boat well supported on the keel, get a support at the bow, I think you are in pretty good shape - at least for one trip. Then you can watch and figure how the boat rides and see where you can make changes to make it ride better.

dj

 

[31seahorse]

+1 to what dLj wrote......bow stand. Also tie down straps at several places along the sides and straps to hold fore and aft. Also a safety chain if bow cleats will allow. I don't remember a bow eye on the 272 for trailering use.

 

[Meriachee]

If the keel is firmly over the axles, and you get 4-6 good quality ratchet straps, in the 10klb range, and use one to prevent the boat from going forward, and one to prevent the boat from going backwards, and the others to hold it down, it's not going anywhere. The straps should not be viewed as necessarily holding it down. They are preventing it from moving. When you figure out where the pads should be, then it's time to consider a keel stop or a crank at the bow. Remember though, that a bow stop that's snug when the boat is level on the trailer, will be in the berth when the boat is floating and the trailer is on a ramp. Geometry.....

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Meriachee hit it on the nailhead. Staping down with one lead from the front aft and one led from the back to forward and two more over the boat will keep it in place. Suggest turning the straps to prevent wind from slapping the straps to prevent it from damaging the hull and if new straps, carpet over the top of the boats so the new straps will not dig into the coaming ..
Great suggestion Mr. Meriachee.