Sail Track Stop vs. Pin

[csobalvarro]

While reefing the main down on Saturday I had a sail track stop slide out of the track and into the water. This of course allowed the sail to come off the track when lowered. As this is the second time this has happened I started thinking about other options. One idea that came to mind is to drill a hole through the edge of the track and insert a clevis pin. I keep my mast stepped and rigged all year, so removing the sail is something rarely do. Anyone see any reason why this would NOT be a reasonable option? Has anyone seen this done or have a better idea?

 

[oreana123]

I have a pin

I have a hole drilled in my mast and a pip pin to hold the sail in the track. Guess what? I let the pin go over the side. Both systems work, but a small diameter cable tether would be helpful.

 

[Mel E.]

Sail Slot filler

Cam, I been thinking about the same thing. We really had to tighten up the thumb screw on the sail stop a couple times to keep it from coming out. I would like to fill the slot with a short piece of PVC or alum pipe with a slot cut in it to match the mast slot. That way the sail slides could just side on down making for a neater flaking job to put the sail cover on. My son is going to take a look at it the next time down to see what can be done. Mel E.

 

[Robspan]

String

I tied the sail stop to the reefing hook with a piece of string. It works fine so far.

 

[Abby Normal]

I've Been Studying The Problem

I've looked over other boats at my marina, and so far, I've not been able to identify any with a slug gate, though sail covers tend to hide that. Those that I can see the slug entrance, I have noticed that Mac seems to be somewhat unique on the flared area used to load slugs into the mast. I'm guessing that's due to Mac's steadfast reliance on luff bolt rope on their facotry units instead of slugs.Aside from easier single-handed reefing, it would also make flaking the main a little easier right on the boom.Here's a link to the Catlina slug gate, it's given me an idea for how to make this work. I'm thinking maybe 12 or 14 ga. (@1/16") sheet aluminum since it would be somewhat easy to shape, corrosion resistant (at least in my fresh-water environment), should be able to modify it easily with a file and tin snips, and cheap. I'm thinking that I would screw through the gates into the main spar with two or three short stainless screws on each side.

 

[Abby Normal]

Reef Hook

Do you have a photo of your reefing hook? I'm curious how it was installed.

 

[Chris & Lenore - Mac 26S - Teliki]

Use a jackline on the slugs - easiest method

I have wrestled with ways to improve reefing.The rear works well - line through a cheek block and forward to a cleat mid-boom. Gives the simplest "in cockpit" reefing.The front is a different story. I was going to fabricate gates but I think it better to close the slot back to 3/8 width to within an inch of the bottom. Can still load the slugs, have room for a stopper - and you don't need to drop any slugs out to reef (or so I think as I haven't actually done this - but the measurements work out).Couple that with a line a few blocks, a rope clutch and it's "in cockpit" for the front.But the easiest solution (IMHO) for "slug management" is to use a jack line, like the big boats. Remove the slugs below the reef point, reinstall the shackle and add a second shackle 1 inch below each existing one. Screw in is fine as the load is carried by the bolt rope i.e. they won't tear the sail.Attach 1/4 or 5/16 low stretch line to the tack grommet (OK cringle) and thread through the shackles - and through each slug between the 1 inch space between shackles. Make the line fast at your upper reef grommet. When the sail is fully up, the line is taught and the sail is pulled tight to the slugs. Lower the sail and it can "float back" from each slug. The slugs are still above the stopper but the sail is not tight to them when lowered. No pounding the slot closed, no fabricating gates and no losing the slug stopper since it stays put all season. Add a line and blocks and enjoy in cockpit reefing.I'll try to find the link to a site which shows this done to a Mac using the double shackle method I described above. You can also use two grommets at 1 inch spacing to achieve the same. Grommets may be lower friction and definitely stronger than plastic.One final bit of advice for those lost sail stoppers. After losing one and noting the replacement cost (and knowing I would lose more) - I bought a few 3/4 by 1/8 countersink head bolts, a few 1/8 washers and matching wing nuts.Works perfectly for a sail stop - and cheap when it falls overboard. Great "family" solution as the skippers language is more tame when it's only a buck lost...Chris

 

[Chris & Lenore - Mac 26S - Teliki]

Here are pictures of slug gates on a V17

I started a thread on the "other forum".Ahron responded with several pics of his slug gates.http://bbs.trailersailor.com/forums/macgregorarchives2/index.cgi/read/30136Chris

 

[Chris & Lenore - Mac 26s - tELIKI]

Here is the pic

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/cgi-bin/modtracker.pl?action=view&record=317

 

[csobalvarro]

Pin

I really like the slug gates shown here. A very elegant solution. But I'm also drawn to the simplicity of the pin. And my sail cover is large enough that it easily covers my somewhat overly high flanked sail. Will probably simply go with a pin. Thanks for all the GREAT ideas. I always learn something from this community!

 

[oldiesrocker2001]

Where can I get one

Hey Chris, where can I get a slug gate like the one shown on the 17? I've been using a bungee cord that holds fast to conveniently placed tangs on the mast that I use for the baby stays on mast raising for my V21. And despite the fact that my sailmaker knew I wanted my reefing lines and blocks run to starboard where mm halyard clutch is located, he set it up on the port which means I have to deal with the haylard and bungee cord with boom swung one way, then swing it the other way to set the reef and then reverse to shake out the reef later. Slug gates would be the answer for me too.

 

[JDK]

Oreana123 has it covered

John S. is correct in thinking a captive cable for the pin is a good idea. My PO installed the type of pin that has a bail that acts as a keeper, and a stainless swagged cable keeping the pin from Davie's locker. I used to have a slug stop on our other 26D, but it's at Davie's place too.

 

[Abby Normal]

Oldie...

I think you will have to make your own gate. Measurement on the extrusion for the M-25 anyhow is 3/4" wide by 4 3/4". Maybe Oreana would be willing to pass this along to the Ida guys and they would be willing to make them.

 

[cecil hillier]

sail slot filler

Your idea to have a filler in the mast slot sounds fantastic. If your son is able to come up with a workable solution I would love to try it. If you have pictures and specs. that would be appreciated.Cecil