When I bought my O'Day 28 last year one of the comments in the survery was that I shoudl consider taking up the sail track on my ports side and rebedding it while on the hard. Well weather is slowly warming up and I am planning to follow through. Seeing that I have never done this and a sailor for only one season I want to make sure I think of everything before I proceed. Observation would seem to say I just undo the nuts from below and pull up the track and the caulk and tighten the bolts snug (making sure not to over tighten). However given that the boat is a 85, I am not sure the track will just move out of the way after all the nuts and bolts have been removed. Is there a technique to getting the track on the deck which I asumme has also been caulk into place. Any thoughts or watch outs would be much appreciated.
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I've done this
You are pretty much right on with the process. It will certainly be hard to pull up, mine were a bear! It depends on how well they are bedded and what sealant was originally used. You might consider 'repotting' the holes through which the track is bolted. This is when you drill the holes out a bit larger, dig out the balsa core about 1/4-1/2 inch around the holes, fill with epoxy, drain epoxy, refill with thickened epoxy and redrill. This ensures that if water ever finds it way into the holes that your deck will not rot. I am not saying that rot will inevitably happen if you don't (properly rebedding with a good sealant should diminish the possibility), but recoring decks is a bit of a bigger deal. I have done both jobs, and repotting and rebedding is much easier, quicker and cheaper. Good luck, check out the link if you want to see what problems water in core material can cause. Wishing you fair winds, Josh
You are pretty much right on with the process. It will certainly be hard to pull up, mine were a bear! It depends on how well they are bedded and what sealant was originally used. You might consider 'repotting' the holes through which the track is bolted. This is when you drill the holes out a bit larger, dig out the balsa core about 1/4-1/2 inch around the holes, fill with epoxy, drain epoxy, refill with thickened epoxy and redrill. This ensures that if water ever finds it way into the holes that your deck will not rot. I am not saying that rot will inevitably happen if you don't (properly rebedding with a good sealant should diminish the possibility), but recoring decks is a bit of a bigger deal. I have done both jobs, and repotting and rebedding is much easier, quicker and cheaper. Good luck, check out the link if you want to see what problems water in core material can cause. Wishing you fair winds, Josh
S
Seekswind
Thanks one question
Thanks for you commments. One question. When you were pulling up the track how did you get it up with creating any damage. Did you use a putty knife and wiggle it under all along or did you just get one end up and tug your way down. Thanks
Thanks for you commments. One question. When you were pulling up the track how did you get it up with creating any damage. Did you use a putty knife and wiggle it under all along or did you just get one end up and tug your way down. Thanks
Anything that works!
I used a combination of stiff putty knife, a small pry lever, and a screwdriver. It did not create much damage. In some places around the bolt holes some gelcoat came off with the sealant. I don't think that this is avoidable, but is covered by the repair later anyway. If you choose to go the epoxy route any surface damage is easil faired with thickened epoxy. What sealant are you planning on using? You might want to search the archives here on that subject, there are some surprisingly heated debates about it! (I use 3M 4200)
I used a combination of stiff putty knife, a small pry lever, and a screwdriver. It did not create much damage. In some places around the bolt holes some gelcoat came off with the sealant. I don't think that this is avoidable, but is covered by the repair later anyway. If you choose to go the epoxy route any surface damage is easil faired with thickened epoxy. What sealant are you planning on using? You might want to search the archives here on that subject, there are some surprisingly heated debates about it! (I use 3M 4200)
S
Seekswind
3M 4200
Thanks Josh, I have talk to a number of people. One of which was a juniour boat builder that I raced with last year. His recommendation was 4200 and to stay away from 5200. I have never worked with epxoy before. Is it difficult? Thanks Chris
Thanks Josh, I have talk to a number of people. One of which was a juniour boat builder that I raced with last year. His recommendation was 4200 and to stay away from 5200. I have never worked with epxoy before. Is it difficult? Thanks Chris
epoxy tips
I have also been told to avoid 5200 b/c it is way more 'permanent' than 4200. 4200 works great for me. Epoxy has a learning curve and is messy, but you will get the hang of it in no time. Some lessons learned/tips: 1)read all of the material you can find at the West Systems website, they and System 3 are the big names in the epoxy game and know what they are talking about. 2)make sure to mix the exact ratio of hardener/resin specified by the maker (different brands have different ratios) I used 60cc syringes (check w/ the vet) to get it exactly right, then I got the minipumps available from West Systems, but they are only available for the B size containers, so probably way more than you need. Do not use the same syringe for resin/hardener/mix, use three seperate 3)mix very, very well... then mix again 4)have acetone on hand for cleanup 5)use a wide container, the epoxy gets very hot as it 'kicks' and can melt plastic containers. this effect is exacerbated by how deep your mixture is in the pot.
I have also been told to avoid 5200 b/c it is way more 'permanent' than 4200. 4200 works great for me. Epoxy has a learning curve and is messy, but you will get the hang of it in no time. Some lessons learned/tips: 1)read all of the material you can find at the West Systems website, they and System 3 are the big names in the epoxy game and know what they are talking about. 2)make sure to mix the exact ratio of hardener/resin specified by the maker (different brands have different ratios) I used 60cc syringes (check w/ the vet) to get it exactly right, then I got the minipumps available from West Systems, but they are only available for the B size containers, so probably way more than you need. Do not use the same syringe for resin/hardener/mix, use three seperate 3)mix very, very well... then mix again 4)have acetone on hand for cleanup 5)use a wide container, the epoxy gets very hot as it 'kicks' and can melt plastic containers. this effect is exacerbated by how deep your mixture is in the pot.
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