Sail stop?

caguy · Aug 2, 2011

Yes you need a sail stop.
You can also use a gate to close the gap. Some have hammered the slot closed so the stop is closer to the boom. This allows for reefing without removing the stop.

Faris · Aug 3, 2011

jjsbiggs said:
I have a sail stop but do not see how that will work without sail slides installed.

Are you saying that your main does not have sail slugs? (see attached image) If not, it must use a bolt rope (a rope sewn into the leading edge of the sail). If your sail has slugs, then you can push the slugs up just above the wide slot and install the slug stop to prevent them from sliding down. This makes raising the main much easier since you don't have to feed the slugs into the track as you are raising it. (Make sure you really tighten down the slug stop as it will tend to work loose.) You may find, however, that with the sail thus attached, your sail cover may not go on. Ours does, but not very well. Generally, when we take the sail down in the evening, we bring it all the way down to the boom. We just "preload" the slugs into the track before taking off in the morning so that when we go to raise the main, it is a quick job.

If your main uses a bolt rope, the slug stop won't help you. You'll have to take the sail all the way out of the track (except maybe the very top).

tkanzler · Aug 3, 2011

Faris said:
. . . Make sure you really tighten down the slug stop as it will tend to work loose.

The previous owners drilled the mast at the top of the slot opening (across the slot, side to side) and installed a long skinny quick pin, presumably to stop the stop from falling out if/when it works loose. That's my best guess, anyway, since the pin won't quite stop the smaller slugs from working their way out on it's own.

doehunter · Aug 3, 2011

caguy said:
Yes you need a sail stop.
You can also use a gate to close the gap. Some have hammered the slot closed so the stop is closer to the boom. This allows for reefing without removing the stop.

I've looked for those several times when I'm in the local WM, and they never have them.
I've been living with looping a bungy under the lowest slug, and up to the baby stay attachments on the mast. Looks awkward but it works.
Is there a ready made gate available that will fit the Mac 26S mast?
That would be really nice.

Paul Brinkley · Aug 3, 2011

Frank, he apparently does not have slides. The sail stop won't work with a bolt rope.
JJSBiggs, if you have only a boltrope, I think you will have to let it come out of the slot as you flake the main across the boom. You will probably need a bungee or a reefing tie to hold the flaked luff in position to put the sail cover on. -Paul

arknoah · Aug 3, 2011

Paul Brinkley said:
Frank, he apparently does not have slides. The sail stop won't work with a bolt rope.
JJSBiggs, if you have only a boltrope, I think you will have to let it come out of the slot as you flake the main across the boom. You will probably need a bungee or a reefing tie to hold the flaked luff in position to put the sail cover on. -Paul

Exactly, which also means you may need assistance to raise the main because you have to feed the bolt rope all the way up the mast. Just securing the flaked sail securely to the boom then putting on the sail cover is about the best you can do.

I would highly recommend installing slugs, however, as it makes raising and lowering the main much, much easier.

tkanzler · Aug 3, 2011

arknoah said:
I would highly recommend installing slugs, however, as it makes raising and lowering the main much, much easier.

Me too. The MacGregor parts pages at Blue Water also show a quarter-turn shackle that's used to attach the tack fitting to the gooseneck when slides are used, as they set the sail further aft than just the bolt rope. Which would explain the strange shape my sail had in that area, since I wasn't using one until just a couple of days ago. I haven't hoisted the main with it yet (put it on when I raised the mast the other day after working on it), so I don't know how the sail looks with it yet. Hopefully this weekend I'll have some time to sail. (BWY p/n 3504114)

Sumner · Aug 3, 2011

doehunter said:
.....Is there a ready made gate available that will fit the Mac 26S mast?
That would be really nice.

Not one you can't buy, but...

...it wasn't that hard to make..

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/rigging-13.html

..... I made it out of aluminum, but then over the winter made one out of steel and had it powder coated. Only problem was that the boat was in Florida and I changed the design slightly and it didn't fit as well as the aluminum one. Now that the boat was home I'll modify it. The steel is stronger and for most people easier to weld but more succeptible to corrosion.

You could also make one pretty easy by putting two screws into each side of the mast by the slot and leaving the heads out say 3/16 of an inch. Then use some flat plate and bend it to fit the curvature of the mast at the slot. Put slots in the sides of the plate for the screw heads and a center slot for the slugs. It would be pressed to the mast and slide down and be held on by the 4 side screws. I think this would be easy to make and quick and easy/foolproof to use. Not sure the description is clear though, kind of like one of those goose-neck lights that have slots on the base so that you can mount it to a wall.

Here is a video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFjyPjJZzdE

Sum

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links

timebandit · Aug 3, 2011

Here is what I did before going to slugs.

Just roll the sail around the boom as it comes down and it will re feed in the slot if you use the halyard to pull the sail up wile unwinding the boom.

Since I have installed slugs I have closed up the feed slot above the boom and opened anothe below.

When bending on the main I do it before attaching the boom and as the sail goes to the top I install the boom.

Once the boom is attached the main cannot be removed without removing the boom so that a sail stop is not needed.

Sorry you S and D guys your boom attaches differently.

MrBill_FLL · Aug 3, 2011

doehunter said:
I've looked for those several times when I'm in the local WM, and they never have them.
I've been living with looping a bungy under the lowest slug, and up to the baby stay attachments on the mast. Looks awkward but it works.
Is there a ready made gate available that will fit the Mac 26S mast?
That would be really nice.

after dropping the 3rd stop in the water I'm also using bungys...

Or, if Sumner would JUST setup a production line...

Brad1968 · Aug 3, 2011

I second the suggestion for Sumner to set up a production line. My 26D would appreciate it...

Paul Brinkley · Aug 3, 2011

The PO drilled 1/8 inch holes in each side of the slot just above the feed area. I have been using the same twist tie from a loaf of bread for 4 years now... maybe I'll do something fancier sometime! -Paul

doehunter · Aug 3, 2011

Paul Brinkley said:
The PO drilled 1/8 inch holes in each side of the slot just above the feed area. I have been using the same twist tie from a loaf of bread for 4 years now... maybe I'll do something fancier sometime! -Paul

Now that's funny! (maybe we're related!)
I thought about drilling holes and using a horizontal pin there but, I'm still hesitant about drilling on my boat! I'm getting better though, I just finished cutting a 4" dia hole in teh hatch for my solar fan. That one hurt!

doehunter · Aug 3, 2011

Sumner,
I've seen that one on your site before, it looks good.
I don't have access to the equipment to fab stuff like that.
I can't really picture the bolt on thing. It needs to be able to move out of the way when Its time to trailer the boat without dealing with screws. maybe some kind of a hook on the bottom and let the pieces swivel on the screws at the top?

Sumner · Aug 3, 2011

doehunter said:
Sumner,
I've seen that one on your site before, it looks good.
I don't have access to the equipment to fab stuff like that.
I can't really picture the bolt on thing. It needs to be able to move out of the way when Its time to trailer the boat without dealing with screws. maybe some kind of a hook on the bottom and let the pieces swivel on the screws at the top?

Ok here is a quick sketch and it is raining and dark, so I didn't go out and look at the boat/mast, so this might be a pipe dream .....

....the plate on the left has a middle main slot for the slugs to fall into. The plate is bent to the contour of the mast. There are 4 slots that are large enough at the bottoms to pass over the bolt or screw heads.

Hold/tape the plate to the mast and drill 4 holes for the retainer screws/bolts. Drill the holes the right size so you can tap the holes. Put 4 SS screws or bolts in the holes with anti-seize and put a nylock on the backside, inside the mast. You have the wider opening in the mast there for the slot, so you should be able to put the nuts on. You leave the heads of the screws or bolts out far enough to slide the slug gate over them and then down on them. Once the screws/bolts are attached you never remove them. Slap the plate on with the sail up and let it slide down so that it is captured by the screw/bolt heads.

I think it will work and is something that about anyone at home could/can do with hand tools and a tap that costs a couple bucks. I might try it myself.

If anyone trys this be sure and feel comfortable with the idea and make sure you can get the nuts on inside of the mast. When I moved the gooseneck up I was able to work inside the mast and the slot wasn't as wide in that area.

Also the slug gate I made could easily be replicated quickly by a welding shop or a friend with a mig or other welder. It dosn't need to be out of aluminum and steel would be stronger.

Good luck,

Sum

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links

All U Get · Aug 4, 2011

caguy said:
Yes you need a sail stop.
You can also use a gate to close the gap. Some have hammered the slot closed so the stop is closer to the boom. This allows for reefing without removing the stop.

That slug looks to be 3/8". Couldn't you just buy 3/8" CPVC and cut a piece that would reach from the boom to above the loading gate. Then raise the main, slide the tube up into the gate, then let it slide down so it's resting above the gooseneck.
All U Get

doehunter · Aug 4, 2011

Sumner said:
Ok here is a quick sketch and it is raining and dark, so I didn't go out and look at the boat/mast, so this might be a pipe dream .....

....the plate on the left has a middle main slot for the slugs to fall into. The plate is bent to the contour of the mast. There are 4 slots that are large enough at the bottoms to pass over the bolt or screw heads.

Hold/tape the plate to the mast and drill 4 holes for the retainer screws/bolts. Drill the holes the right size so you can tap the holes. Put 4 SS screws or bolts in the holes with anti-seize and put a nylock on the backside, inside the mast. You have the wider opening in the mast there for the slot, so you should be able to put the nuts on. You leave the heads of the screws or bolts out far enough to slide the slug gate over them and then down on them. Once the screws/bolts are attached you never remove them. Slap the plate on with the sail up and let it slide down so that it is captured by the screw/bolt heads.

I think it will work and is something that about anyone at home could/can do with hand tools and a tap that costs a couple bucks. I might try it myself.

If anyone trys this be sure and feel comfortable with the idea and make sure you can get the nuts on inside of the mast. When I moved the gooseneck up I was able to work inside the mast and the slot wasn't as wide in that area.

Also the slug gate I made could easily be replicated quickly by a welding shop or a friend with a mig or other welder. It dosn't need to be out of aluminum and steel would be stronger.

Good luck,

Sum

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links

Nice drawing. Perfectly clear.
I was trying to make it too hard!
I'll keep that one in mind.
Thanks
Jim

doehunter · Aug 4, 2011

All U Get said:
That slug looks to be 3/8". Couldn't you just buy 3/8" CPVC and cut a piece that would reach from the boom to above the loading gate. Then raise the main, slide the tube up into the gate, then let it slide down so it's resting above the gooseneck.
All U Get

Hmmm another simple idea!
I might try that too. It sounds simpler than making a gate, BUT the gate lets the slugs slide farther down. It makes the main lay better when it's down.
Jim

Sumner · Aug 4, 2011

doehunter said:
Hmmm another simple idea!
I might try that too. It sounds simpler than making a gate, BUT the gate lets the slugs slide farther down. It makes the main lay better when it's down.
Jim

We used the slug stop....

....and it worked great, but then Ruth made the ...

....sailpack/cover and we wanted the sail down....

...... as close to the boom as possible, as you mentioned, and that is when I made the slug gate.

Here is a link to the sailpack and lazy jack system.....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor-canvas/canvas-9.html

....that we love. It makes dropping the main and covering it a quick and simple one person deal.

The pipe idea should work, but you would have to put a pin in the mast slot below the opening/above the gooseneck or I believe the pipe would slide on down the mast slot.

Sum

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links

Sail stop?

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