Sail Design, Outhaul and Bolt Rope Footed Main Sail

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OldCat

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Jul 26, 2005
728
Catalina , Nacra 5.8, Laser, Hobie Hawk Wonmop, CO
I got involved in a discussion on another forum about the use of an outhaul on a rope footed main sail. Some contend that an outhaul will not change sail shape much because the rope won't stretch enough. My ignorant:redface: approach when I got my C22 was to install a 6:1 low friction outhaul. As luck was in my favor - my experience is that this works and I have enough oomph in the outhaul to make large differences in sail shape.

I would think that a loose footed main would be easier to adjust, but my sail still seems adjustable by the outhaul. I don't think that this is an illusion caused by my seeing what I want to see or too much grog...

So my questions: Is the rope foot sewn in compressed so that it will stretch easily, or made from an easily stretched rope? Or, is something else going on with the sail? Is the bolt rope footed main made so that the foot stretches - and if so how do sail makers accomplish that?

Thanks,
OC
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
None of us DAs knows

The thought that the foot is cut on a curve which would push material into the sail and make it baggy when the foot rope was tight and pull material out of the sail when it was loose is contrary to what I've noticed and since it is all attached to a straight boom how would any of that change anything? Boom bending like mast bending????
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
" ..... Or, is something else going on with the sail? Is the bolt rope footed main made so that the foot stretches ...***YES***- and if so how do sail makers accomplish that"

Simple speak - the boltrope stretches (from a slack or zero stretched condition) and the sail material also stretches in reaction to the change in boltrope length. The boltrope prevents the sail material from 'over stretching' during variable and maximum sail windloading. On a boltroped sails, the outhaul stretches *both* the boltrope and the sail material ... as well as changing the tack—clew dimension. On a loose foot the outhaul primarily only changes the tack-clew dimension (but can severely stretch the sail fabric).

Detailed Discussion.
A boltrope on the foot is usually sewn in with no 'preload' (prior 'shortening'), just the rope in its slack/natural length. A boltrope prevents undue sail material stretch within normal limits of the wind loading. As the windloading increases the boltrope counteracts the 'stretch'.
A sail with a shelf foot and a boltrope will take more 'strain' than loose foot without a boltrope because the boltrope *and* the shelf foot both support the windloading and the reaction force of the 'outhaul'. Inotherwords the shape along the foot is more stable in changing wind loading conditions because of the boltrope. Adjusting tension via the outhaul changes both the length of the boltrope AND the boom side portion of the shelf foot and the sail becomes somewhat flatter (less draft) in the lower panels, (but not as severe a shape change as with a loose foot sail without a boltrope) - the boltrope needs the extra stress to 'stretch'. It takes much much more force via the outhaul to adjust a boltroped sail, than a loose foot because of the boltrope counteracting the force from the outhaul. When adjusting the outhaul on a loose foot you are merely changing the freely moving the material between the two points of constraint - the tack and clew.


Advantages of boltroped foot: more aerodynamically efficient, more dimensionally stable over time - less permanent deformation via the outhaul.
Disadvantages: less adjustment of the amount of extreme flatness or maximum draft, less adjustment because of the boltrope (and 'shelf foot') being 'constrained' by the track/slot. It takes vastly more stress from an outhaul to adjust a boltroped sail in comparison to a loose-foot.

Advantages of the loose foot: easier (less tension needed) adjustment via outhaul, wider range of adjustment. Cheaper to construct.
Disadvantage: amount of draft will variably change 'more' in reaction to variable windloading, will more quickly gain permanent deformation/stretch along the tack-clew axis, very easy to apply excess strain that can result in permanent stretch.
Its very easy to overstretch and permanently deform a loose footed sail by overtension via the outhaul.

Other.
A sail with a bolt roped foot will usually have a shelf-foot - a section of cloth that 'fills-in', almost horizontally, from the 'curved full (normal) draft shape' TO the straight boom. This is done to increase the aero-efficiency by presenting something like a 'winglet' (end-plate) on an airplane wing.
 
May 23, 2007
1,306
Catalina Capri 22 Albany, Oregon
IIRC Dad had a bolt-rope footed main on his Bristol 24 when I was growing up. Frankly I don't recall that much about it but I know I prefer to run mine loose footed.

Both of my mains have rope of similar gauge to what goes up the mast along the bottom edge. I'm pretty sure I could feed the lower rope into the boom track if I wanted to, but frankly I find bolt ropes incredibly annoying. We had a bolt-rope main on the Capri 16.5 and I really didn't like the way it would catch on the feeder slot going up and had to be physically pulled down

Verboten, our Capri 22, came with a brand new racing main that I added slugs to before we launched in the spring. The prior owner had only used it once and I gave up with it 1/4 way up the one time I tried because it was such a royal pain to get it up Verboten's 30' mast. While racing purists may cringe, at least my wife can raise/lower the sail without having to climb on the cabin.
 
Jan 22, 2008
198
Montgomery 17, Venture of Newport, Mirror sailing dinghy, El Toro sailing dinghy Mound, MN -- Lake Minnetonka
" ..... .


Advantages of boltroped foot: more aerodynamically efficient, more dimensionally stable over time - less permanent deformation via the outhaul.
Disadvantages: less adjustment of the amount of extreme flatness or maximum draft, less adjustment because of the boltrope (and 'shelf foot') being 'constrained' by the track/slot. It takes vastly more stress from an outhaul to adjust a boltroped sail in comparison to a loose-foot.

Advantages of the loose foot: easier (less tension needed) adjustment via outhaul, wider range of adjustment. Cheaper to construct.
Disadvantage: amount of draft will variably change 'more' in reaction to variable windloading, will more quickly gain permanent deformation/stretch along the tack-clew axis, very easy to apply excess strain that can result in permanent stretch.
Its very easy to overstretch and permanently deform a loose footed sail by overtension via the outhaul.

Other.
A sail with a bolt roped foot will usually have a shelf-foot - a section of cloth that 'fills-in', almost horizontally, from the 'curved full (normal) draft shape' TO the straight boom. This is done to increase the aero-efficiency by presenting something like a 'winglet' (end-plate) on an airplane wing.


Thanks for a great explanation, Rich. I have a related question:
My new mainsail has a bolt roped foot w/shelf. I have rigged a 6:1 internal outhaul and it works well but there is a lot of friction when it is eased due to the boltrope in the slot. Would it be advantageous to add slugs to the foot? I can see two potential advantages: 1) less friction in the system, and 2) when reefing, the nettles can be tied around just the bunt of the sail instead of the boom.
Disadvantages: less aerodynamic efficiency?

Thanks!
 

OldCat

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Jul 26, 2005
728
Catalina , Nacra 5.8, Laser, Hobie Hawk Wonmop, CO
HEINZIR;769781Would it be advantageous to add slugs to the foot? I can see two potential advantages: 1) less friction in the system...[/quote said:
Q: Have you tried McLube Sailkote? This helps cut friction a bunch.

OC
 

OldCat

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Jul 26, 2005
728
Catalina , Nacra 5.8, Laser, Hobie Hawk Wonmop, CO
Rich,

Thanks for the full story on this, I was hoping you would chime in on this.

My 6:1 outhaul was not a total guess on my part - Catalina Direct sells kits for the C22, 4:1 and 8:1. I split the difference at 6:1 mostly because I had the parts in my basement. 6:1 seems to work well for me.

From your description, it sounds like a bolt rope footed main may be best for my sailing area. With highly variable gusts, it seems that a more stable sail shape is an advantage.

Tks,
OC
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
I have rigged a 6:1 internal outhaul and it works well but there is a lot of friction when it is eased due to the boltrope in the slot. Would it be advantageous to add slugs to the foot? I can see two potential advantages: 1) less friction in the system, and 2) when reefing, the nettles can be tied around just the bunt of the sail instead of the boom.
Disadvantages: less aerodynamic efficiency?
Two things cause a boltrope (or delrin slugs) in a slot to bind:
1. rough/dirty 'slot'
2. 'fattened' boltrope.

Dirty slot.
The inside of the slot can easily lose its anodizing due to the friction of the sail or slugs. Once the anodizing becomes worn you can easily get oxidation of the aluminum. The second problem is the accumulation of atmospheric dirt. A cleaning/polishing of the slot, especially the 'lips of the slot' lightly with 320 grit sand paper will help ... but once you need to sand and go through any remaining anodizing, you will be committed to always periodically sand the slot. Lubricating the slot with simple paraffin candle wax seems to work best ... just a very light layer (not lumps) will greatly help. I prefer to take a small lump of paraffin, dissolve it in gasoline or naptha-benzene and simply brush it on the 'lips' and also pull a 'wad' soaked with the mixture a few times through the slot. I pull the wad (like cleaning a gun barrel) through a few times until the wad remains 'mostly' clean. Once dry 'then' you can 'spritz' the slot with a DRY teflon spray such as McLube, etc.

For a sail/slot that uses slugs should be cleaned in the same way but for slugs I tend to avoid the 'spray lubrications' as the 'carrier' of the spray 'may' also cause the 'slug' to soften and swell - clean/lightly, sand the slugs and then rub-on the dry paraffin.

Boltrope problems.
Look at the boltrope in its relaxed condition .... if there are 'wrinkles' of the boltrope sheath they usually will have the peaks of the wrinkles quite dirty and 'smeared' with accumulated debris. If so, CLEAN / scrub the boltrope sheath with an INORGANIC cleaner - such as a 'mildly caustic' detergent: diluted sodium silicate based detergent or diluted TSP, etc. STAY AWAY from 'petroleum based' cleaners as they tend to make the dacron swell-up or 'soften'.
Boltropes are usually made of 3 strand DACRON rope. Almost ALL 3 strand rope becomes FATTER and SHORTER and 'stiffer' over time (same thing happens to docklines). Every time you stretch out a 3 strand rope then relax it the rope will 'shorten' and become fatter by a 'teeny' little bit. If the boltrope has become signifciantly 'fattter' it will then tend bind in the slot and then needs to be either replaced (moderately expensive), readjusted for proper length (less expensive) .... or if your are 'daring' - soak the boltope (not the whole sail) in quite warm water in a large bucket with a little bit of liquid laundry detergent, then immediately stretch the boltrope between two 'immovable' objects with sufficient tension to significantly stretch out the rope (but not break the sail) .... and let it *dry thoroughly* (days) under this strain. If you know the original precise dimensions, 'sometimes' you can restore the rope back to its original length *and diameter* --- dont 'overstretch it'.

I avoid using 'spray' lubricants or 'petro based' liquid lubricants which promote softening and swelling of 'plastics' ... I usually will 'rub' dry paraffin on the boltrope sleeve (but sometimes will spray on McLube, etc. but from sufficient distance in an 'attempt' to allow the 'carrier' to 'flash off' or become 'vapor' before it hits the sail).

Note for 'slug' connected sails -
to keep the (luff) slot constantly lubricated, carve a ~1" long piece of paraffin 'slightly' smaller than the diameter of the slot, put it between the topmost slug and the next highest slug .... every time you raise the sail the 'pencil' will lightly rub against the slot and keep it 'slick'. Slugs wear out quickly, especially the 'end portion' of the slot and once they 'lose diameter' they can easily 'toggle' (by just a few degrees) in the slot and begin to act as a 'brake' with point to point contact. So, if the slugs seem to have the area near the 'ends' seems to be worn ... replace them.
(For a luff boltrope in slot configuration, just put a 'smaller wax slug' in the slot before your raise ... and be sure to catch it when you lower the sail.)

Benefits
A well LUBRICATED and clean 'slot' will allow a sail to QUICKLY 'equilibrate' so that when you add/release tension to either the halyard/cunningham/outhaul ... the resultant 'adjustment' and change of sail shape will occur very quickly ... if the b-rope or slugs are binding the change in shape can take a LOT of time to 'equilibrate' until the rope/slugs eventually and finally move to their 'final' position in response to the adjusted tensions !!!!!
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
and I really didn't like the way it would catch on the feeder slot going up and had to be physically pulled down
If you can find a fabricator who specializes in aluminum, you might want to consider to get the entrance to the 'feeder slot' flared .... bending the entrance to feeder slot into a flared (trumpet mouthed) configuration in such a 'cranky' material such as non-ductile aluminum takes an 'artist' to do.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
From your description, it sounds like a bolt rope footed main may be best for my sailing area. With highly variable gusts, it seems that a more stable sail shape is an advantage.
I think that 'boltrope in the slot' is the BEST way to go for 'responsive' and lightweight boats as it seems that the 'impact' against the slugs and their connectors quickly results in a permanent 'fan-like' distortion radiating into the sail material and thus permanent localized set of 'wrinkles' / deformation (radial 'girts') at EACH slug position . I surmise, this is probably due to the 'impact' loads because these boats 'react' sooooooooo quickly and therefore the impacts are soooooo high. This radial wrinkle pattern cant happen with a boltrope in the slot configuration because the impact forces are 'distributed' more evenly. As I stated previously I feel that a 'boltrope in slot' configuration promotes a much longer lasting sail.
 
May 17, 2004
2,110
Other Catalina 30 Tucson, AZ
Oldcat: RichH has completly cover the topic. As an aside and a bit off the topic, I prefer the bolt rope setup and the reason is I'm too old to change. I've raced head to head with identical C30's (one loose footed and the other bolt rope) and neither had any advantage when both crews knew what they were doing. If the loose footed crew makes a mistake and induces too much draft depth (belly) the bolt rope crew could take advantage. It is very easy to induce too much draft depth (belly) with the loose foot system. All the max draft depth that is need is about 20% - that's about 6" of outhaul travel. I've noticed loose footed crews go way beyond that length.

For beginners to intermediates, do you know how to calculate draft depth and do you know what 20% means?
 
May 20, 2004
151
C&C 26 Ghost Lake, Alberta
I'm guessing here, but an outhaul on a boltrope footed main - wasn't that called a flattening reef in earlier times?
I don't know the answer; looking for a little enlightenment!
sam :)
 
May 23, 2007
1,306
Catalina Capri 22 Albany, Oregon
I'm guessing here, but an outhaul on a boltrope footed main - wasn't that called a flattening reef in earlier times?
I don't know the answer; looking for a little enlightenment!
sam :)
I don't think so. I have 2 kringles in my sail - the one for the flattening reef is about a foot above the clew. The one for the main reef is about 3 feet above the clew.

Frankly, I've never used the flattening reef; if i need it then I figure i might as well go with the full reef 'cuz the wind is just going to get stronger.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Flattening reefs were usually configured a few inches to a foot above the 'full up' clew ... and at the luff one simply pulled the cunningham all the way to the boom. No much of a sail area reduction but pulled 'most' of the draft out of the lower sail panels, including the shelf foot. A loose footed sail bypasses all this 'clatter-trap' ... just pull the outhaul 'for all it worth' and you instantly wind up with the same 'flatness' as a 'flattenin reef' but with 1/2 the work.

On planing hull boats, sailed in high winds and flat water, flattening is highly preferred over 'reefing'.
 

OldCat

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Jul 26, 2005
728
Catalina , Nacra 5.8, Laser, Hobie Hawk Wonmop, CO
Frankly, I've never used the flattening reef; if i need it then I figure i might as well go with the full reef 'cuz the wind is just going to get stronger.
FWIW: I pull luff tension with a 4:1 boom downhaul. When it runs out of travel (per C22 class racing specs), then I pull the Cunningham. When that is not enough, I reef.

OC
 
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