Thank you all for your opinions...knew I could count on you guys. I know I wasn't clear on this, so let me mention: After looking here in the chandlery, I did go to the Doyle loft on City Island, and down the road to the UK loft. The recommendations came from sales reps at each place. By the way, the rep at Doyle did say all sails for the chandlery here are made right here, as Phil said, and with these other quotes, they're looking like a bargain. It seems most of you feel weight is not as much of an issue as I thought, and heavier cloth will hold shape and last longer, and not be detrimental in light air? Hope I got that right. I guess I was thrown by the huge difference in price for the same dacron sail request. I expected a slight difference, but $2000 and $3000? That would mean (I would hope) a MUCH better grade of cloth and construction from UK, the heavier weight recommendation from them aside. I guess I was wondering if anyone thought a $1000 difference was truly worth it. I noticed as well a few of you said a genny in the 150 range would be better. This light boat seems to go over pretty easily, so I felt a 150 would just be too much in any but the lightest air, and we could carry a 133 further up the wind range. Even with our 110 up, 15kts is the breakpoint for reefing to maintain a 15 to 20 degree heel angle and keep speed up. Again, thanks to all, and if anyone has more to say on the subject, it would be welcome...I want to go into this battle armed!
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Sail Cloth Weight Comment
Sifting through all the details about sails to ensure you're getting what you want is not easy but it looks like you've done a good job. I was one of those who provided a positive comment on heavier weight sail cloth and I'd like to add a little more. On our boat the sailmakers recommended fabric weight was close to marginal. That is to say if the sail was a bit larger then it would have thrown the recommended weight into the next heavier fabric so I opted to just use the next heavier weight. This more so on the main than the jib. The heavier fabric is quite noticable compared to my old sails. It is somewhat heavier, but not unreasonably so, but it's a lot stiffer than the old sail. The term for old sails are "rags" - this really fits, in comparison. On the new sails the resins haven't been broken down and with the heavier cloth the sail is stiffer. The first year flaking the main required more effort but boy, does the sail shape look good! Don't forget to get spreader patches and they should fit both for full up and when reefed. If you have a dutchman system then where the lines rub on the battens there should be some sacraficial patches. At this point its the details that are important. The leach line adjustments (jam cleat vs a couple stainless gromets), foot line adjustment on the 135 jib, UV on the jib if you're using a roller furler, and the UV should cover all the exposed area, even on the inside of the luff at the head and tack. Height of the jib clew - should it be high for visibility or low for sail area. Teltails - luff at several points along the cord? Ensure the main has leach teltails. Number of reef points? How deep the reefs should be? Good luck racing.
Sifting through all the details about sails to ensure you're getting what you want is not easy but it looks like you've done a good job. I was one of those who provided a positive comment on heavier weight sail cloth and I'd like to add a little more. On our boat the sailmakers recommended fabric weight was close to marginal. That is to say if the sail was a bit larger then it would have thrown the recommended weight into the next heavier fabric so I opted to just use the next heavier weight. This more so on the main than the jib. The heavier fabric is quite noticable compared to my old sails. It is somewhat heavier, but not unreasonably so, but it's a lot stiffer than the old sail. The term for old sails are "rags" - this really fits, in comparison. On the new sails the resins haven't been broken down and with the heavier cloth the sail is stiffer. The first year flaking the main required more effort but boy, does the sail shape look good! Don't forget to get spreader patches and they should fit both for full up and when reefed. If you have a dutchman system then where the lines rub on the battens there should be some sacraficial patches. At this point its the details that are important. The leach line adjustments (jam cleat vs a couple stainless gromets), foot line adjustment on the 135 jib, UV on the jib if you're using a roller furler, and the UV should cover all the exposed area, even on the inside of the luff at the head and tack. Height of the jib clew - should it be high for visibility or low for sail area. Teltails - luff at several points along the cord? Ensure the main has leach teltails. Number of reef points? How deep the reefs should be? Good luck racing.
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