S2 6.8 Hatch Covers

[Nick6.8Exciter]

The next step in my restoration project is to replace the cracked hatch covers on my 6.8. My plan is to purchase the material and then cut them myself. So the only question I have is what would be the best and most cost effective material to use. My biggest concerns besides cost are strength, machineability and ability to withstand saltwater and direct sunlight. I think I want them to be translucent, but I could go with opaque or transparent if all the other factors pointed in that direction. I also want the hatches to look nice. I am a little concerned that transparent hatches would either fade or get scratched up. After replacing the main hatch I will probably replace the wooden slats and the wooden trim that the slats slide into with the same material as the hatch.

Right now my boat leaks badly whenever it rains, so replacing the hatch covers is the priority.

Currently I am thinking either Polypropylene or Starboard. If anyone has any other suggestions or know of reasons why I should not use the materials I suggested please let me know.

I appreciate any and all advice; especially the free kind.

Thanks,

Nick

 

[BobM]

My concern would be that either could be flexible enough to pop out of the relatively small tracks on the 6.8 when stepped on. At least consider building a cross member at the cockpit end to stiffen it. At the other end (forward) it looks like being held against the cabin will stiffen it and it isn't all that big a span and could be okay.

The problem is that the cost of a custom bent acrylic hatch might exceed your whole boat! Another way to stiffen it would be to laminate a couple of thin sheets together. That would make it easier to bend into the necessary curve, but still maintain strength.

Good luck,

BobM

 

[Ed Ramsey]

The originals were Acrylic and the sliding one was easily broken if stepped on, on the 6.8.

I don't know about polypropylene, but starboard will sag over time. The cheapest way would probably be some really thin plywood with fiberglass covering it inside and out (formed to a curve, of course), then paint it.

I've thought about making some spares out of fiberglass. My #130 has its original slider, but my #22 has been replaced at some point before I bought it. It is also acrylic like the original, and is a very good replication.

As for the wood slats, Starboard works well for the ones that are screwed to the boat, but may be too flexible for the three drop-in boards. Some teak, mahogany, or locust would work very well. Do you have access to the tools to make some new boards?

 

[Nick6.8Exciter]

Ed, I tried replying to your PM with no luck so i am puting my reply here....


Hi Ed, thanks for the link. Alot of great information there!

I am 90% sure my hull number is #139. I will check when I go out to it later this week.

I sail on Choctawhatchee Bay in Fort Walton Beach and Niceville Florida.

I grew up in Galion Ohio if you can believe that. I am a little pressed for time right now but I would love to talk to you more about restoration issues. My boat is very solid and sails very nicely but it needs a lot of cosmetic work inside. I have the 100% Jib with the original Red and orange stripe but my main is all white. I want to get an original design for the main and perhaps put the stripes back on the hulll.

Ultimately i would like to fully restore the boat, but I may make some alterations as far as materials go.

I will send you some more information soon.

Thanks again for the link.

 

[Nick6.8Exciter]

About the hatch covers. I may be wrong as I am not looking at the boat at the moment but I am pretty sure that my main hatch is flat. I don't think there is any curvature to it at all.

I don't personally have any wood working tools, but I may be able to get access to a shop, or better yet be able to get a friend of a friend to actually do the work for me at a friend discount. I just need to decide on, then obtain the material.

I definately don't want it to break easily as that is the problem with it now. I am on the fence as to whether I want transparent, translucent or opaque hatches.

 

[Ed Ramsey]

If strength is your #1 goal, I'd lay up some fiberglass with foam core. You could even add some small windows to it to brighten the interior up again I'd make the windows look similar to the style of the cabin windows. You could duplicate the deck's nonskid, too and really make it look like it was done at the factory--which is what I've had in mind for mine for a few years now.

There should be a very slight curve to the hatch, so it matches the curve of the deck.

Maybe someday I'll get around to upgrading mine...

 

[BobM]

Nick, love the profile pick of your careening. Some guy at my club careened his boat this year on the mud flats too.

 

[Nick6.8Exciter]

Ed, I was mistaken. My hull is number 129.

 

[Ed Ramsey]

Wow! I think that means your boat was built just before mine (#130). Cool!

 

[Nick6.8Exciter]

Well after removing the hatch cover I realized that it does indeed have a curve to it. This makes replacing it considerably more difficult for me. I have very limited carpentry skills. Anyway I decided as a temporary solution I would seal the crack with a flexible, clear adhesive. It is not the most attractive, or permanent solution but for the time being it is mitigating my rainwater issues. I found there was water leaking in where the shroud plate goes through the deck to the bulkhead. I sealed those areas up as well. I also sealed all the cracks in the windows. I am still seeing a small amount of rain water coming in after a downpour.

Anyway Ed, if you ever get around to attempting to build a new main hatch, consider building two. I would love to purchase one from you. Just food for thought.