S 1
- Thread starter paulj
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I liked how MaineSailing solved the problem.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rudder_position_sensor
So your bracket would get straped to the rudder post with hose clamps?
That would allow for easy adjustment.
Where would you mount the sensor, behind next to the W.heater on a riser?
I have a line on the S1 for $700 what do you think?
Tom
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rudder_position_sensor
So your bracket would get straped to the rudder post with hose clamps?
That would allow for easy adjustment.
Where would you mount the sensor, behind next to the W.heater on a riser?
I have a line on the S1 for $700 what do you think?
Tom
That's a STEAL!!! Snap it up before they're gone!!
Check with Dave Groshong here as they may be able to compete with that price and you'd be supporting the forum! They had the BEST price anywhere on the planet when I bought my new PHII head..
Low price...........
http://www.anchorexpress.com/RAYMARINE-S1-Wheel-Pilot-Autopilot-E12180-p/e12180.htm
paulj :troll:
http://www.anchorexpress.com/RAYMARINE-S1-Wheel-Pilot-Autopilot-E12180-p/e12180.htm
paulj :troll:
Witzend
Maine Sail is a young skinny guy so he can use the aft access door on the starboard side...nothing wrong with his design.
I'm a fat old man and I tried that access door.....my elbows are still sore.
Bracket
I will use hose clamps to hold the bracket to the shaft for installation purposes.
There are so many options depending your tools and attachment devices that you are fimilar with.
You could leave clamps and install two set screws in bracket to shaft
.
I plan on drilling and taping 10-32 threads in shaft and using bolts to secure bracket to shaft.
I plan on installing the RPS on the port side.
Finished RPS mount using 3/4" marine plywood...fits better than I thought.
Will use RTV to secure bracket to fiberglass.
paulj :troll:
Maine Sail is a young skinny guy so he can use the aft access door on the starboard side...nothing wrong with his design.
I'm a fat old man and I tried that access door.....my elbows are still sore.
Bracket
I will use hose clamps to hold the bracket to the shaft for installation purposes.
There are so many options depending your tools and attachment devices that you are fimilar with.
You could leave clamps and install two set screws in bracket to shaft
.
I plan on drilling and taping 10-32 threads in shaft and using bolts to secure bracket to shaft.
I plan on installing the RPS on the port side.
Finished RPS mount using 3/4" marine plywood...fits better than I thought.
Will use RTV to secure bracket to fiberglass.
paulj :troll:
Paulj,
I appreciate the challenges the less flexible members of our community face in executing home engineered installations of this nature, especially when it involves tapping #10 screws into stainless, go slow with the tap or it will gall and break on ya. All stainless hose clamps will work just fine for me when my time comes for sore elbows, providing easy adjustment if necessary. I will be looking forward to seeing the wonderful pictures I know you will provide us all of your toils.
Cheers,
Tom
P.S Hodges has them for a buck more.
http://www.hodgesmarine.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=s1+wheel&Search.x=6&Search.y=8
These guys are getting pretty hungry.
I appreciate the challenges the less flexible members of our community face in executing home engineered installations of this nature, especially when it involves tapping #10 screws into stainless, go slow with the tap or it will gall and break on ya. All stainless hose clamps will work just fine for me when my time comes for sore elbows, providing easy adjustment if necessary. I will be looking forward to seeing the wonderful pictures I know you will provide us all of your toils.
Cheers,
Tom
P.S Hodges has them for a buck more.
http://www.hodgesmarine.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=s1+wheel&Search.x=6&Search.y=8
These guys are getting pretty hungry.
I've got the overall wiring diagram roughed out.
Now I'm looking for a location for the computer.
Here is two possibilities...
paulj :troll:
Now I'm looking for a location for the computer.
Here is two possibilities...
paulj :troll:
Attachments
I like the idea of keeping it close to the drive motor that way the voltage drop due to excessive cable length will be minimized. Remember Ohms law, as E drops I increases.
This will keep the motor happy. Use a heaver gauge #16 or less, (the largest will fit in the terminals) to power the computer. I may put mine in the lazarette.
This will keep the motor happy. Use a heaver gauge #16 or less, (the largest will fit in the terminals) to power the computer. I may put mine in the lazarette.
Remember Ohms law, as E drops I increases.
I also remember if you use existing cable lengths you don't need to use Ohms Law.
Run those wires from the Com/Nav circut breaker switch on the AC-DC panel to the computer. Now you can use the Ohms thingy.
paulj :troll:
I also remember if you use existing cable lengths you don't need to use Ohms Law.
Run those wires from the Com/Nav circut breaker switch on the AC-DC panel to the computer. Now you can use the Ohms thingy.
paulj :troll:
The idea is to keep the voltage high. The longer the wire the lower the voltage. This is why they gave you a very short power wire to bring power to the Course Computer. By placing the Course Computer where you plan you will need to replace the power wires with longer ones. Use heavy gauge wire here! Then shorten the wire going to the motor that will keep the voltage up. The length of the wires provided by Raymarine for power transmission is for mounting the Course Computer near the power source. Your plan appears to mount the unit elsewhere.
Existing 12 volt power wire size is 10 AWG coming from Nav/Com circut breaker to computer.
paulj :troll:
paulj :troll:
Attachments
Speaking of wiring, I'm concerned about drilling new holes for the mounting of the new GP1040 Pod and trying not to nick the existing wire in the tube. Hopefully it will be like yours and have all the wires run in on tube. That will leave the other side clear for drilling and running the new wires. There is still the matter of drilling the mounting holes for the pod on the occupied side? I know, put on one of those drill depth stops on the bit, that will help.
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